What RC parts have you 3D Printed????

[JatoTheRipper]

I know it looks like a bit much but I use an infrared heatlamp and a ceramic heating element to keep as much heat into ABS as possible. I have another ceramic heater on hand if I need it for the other side. This is all in lieu of building an enclosure. I'm not keen on putting the electronics in a box to heat with part being printed. The hot-end stepper and fans get the worse of it, but these are easy to fix/replace should there be a failure.


I like ABS. It glues easy, sands easy, paints easy, great thermal resistance and durable. It's an f'er to print large parts cleanly. Scuffed Kapton tape and bed adhesion is beautiful.... with the extra heat to control warp

Interesting. I was thinking french fry light and that's what it looks kinda like! :lmao: Hey if it works then go for it!

 

[drzoo2]

Interesting. I was thinking french fry light and that's what it looks kinda like! :lmao: Hey if it works then go for it!

You be surprised on how well the infrared lamp works. It's radiant heat so it adds energy to the part vs a fan heater which will actually wick the heat away through convection. I found the ceramic allows for more localized heat. I wasn't able to print the hood until I added the ceramic heater.

 

[Sniper4370]

I need to replenish my PLA. Anyone got any recommended brands they have good luck with?

 

[Gula]

I printed some lockouts for an axle in PETG and was unable to break it, stronger than ABS, or PLA and near zero stringing

 

[Sniper4370]

I printed some lockouts for an axle in PETG and was unable to break it, stronger than ABS, or PLA and near zero stringing

What printer are you running?

 

[QuesoDelDiablo]

I need to replenish my PLA. Anyone got any recommended brands they have good luck with?

I haven't experimented with every brand out there but I've tried lots and by and far the PLA+ from Esun has been the best that I've ever used.

Well spooled, easy to print with, good layer adhesion, good finish, no blobbing or stringing. It's the only PLA I'll buy now (but I don't use much PLA, I've switched almost everything over to PETG now).

It's not the cheapest PLA I've used but the cost increase is easily offset by the improved quality and lack of print failures.

eSUN 3D Printing Materials

 

[Sniper4370]

I haven't experimented with every brand out there but I've tried lots and by and far the PLA+ from Esun has been the best that I've ever used.

Well spooled, easy to print with, good layer adhesion, good finish, no blobbing or stringing. It's the only PLA I'll buy now (but I don't use much PLA, I've switched almost everything over to PETG now).

It's not the cheapest PLA I've used but the cost increase is easily offset by the improved quality and lack of print failures.

eSUN 3D Printing Materials

Thanks for the reply. I was looking at eSun on Amazon but, it cannot be shipped to California apparently. :roll: I'm thinking about picking up some PETG to try.

 

[HumboldtEF]

I've been using Push Plastic PETG because Amian has it and it can ship free with my big RC orders. Anyway I've been pleased with the prints, I too haven't tried tons of brands either.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I like Hatchbox brand filament the best. For functional RC parts, PETG is what I use. I haven't ventured into nylon or carbon infused filament yet. PLA is too brittle for parts that need strength. PLA is fine for scale accessories though. I haven't found a second brand of filament that I like as much as Hatchbox.

 

[HumboldtEF]

I just did a little test of a SSD badge. I'm working on a plug for the trail king motor cover, something to plug the motor wire hole. I thought making it match the intake contour wasn't gonna happen so why not put a badge on it.
It printed in 2 pieces.

 

[Sniper4370]

I've been using Push Plastic PETG because Amian has it and it can ship free with my big RC orders. Anyway I've been pleased with the prints, I too haven't tried tons of brands either.

I like Hatchbox brand filament the best. For functional RC parts, PETG is what I use. I haven't ventured into nylon or carbon infused filament yet. PLA is too brittle for parts that need strength. PLA is fine for scale accessories though. I haven't found a second brand of filament that I like as much as Hatchbox.

I've only tried Inland PLA+ so far as that's what they have at Micro Center where I bought my printer. I have ordered a couple of rolls of Matterhackers to continue playing with. Hatchbox seems highly regarded but, I have read of inconsistency in their rolls. PETG is next on my list of filament to try.

 

[HumboldtEF]

I finished up the wire pass through cover for the Trail king.

I did a wash to give it a tiny bit of grime

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I finished up the wire pass through cover for the Trail king.

That's really cool!

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Axial borrowed some features from the TRX-4 and one of those is the spots for the rock lights on the inner fenders. I don't use those and Axial failed to include blockoff plates so I made my own. If you try them out, please let me know if there are any issues, if you like them, or if you have any other feedback. Each requires two M2.5x6mm flat head screws.

They will sit flatter against the inner fender than what is showing in the photo if you do a better job of removing supports. I'm kinda struggling with the supports in PrusaSlicer. They sometimes don't sometimes don't come off of the part cleanly.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4249467

 

[GA Dawg]

If you get rid of the part that fits into the hole, you can print it flat without supports. Either that, or do away with the studs that you are screwing into and just use nuts. Just a thought.

 

[Sniper4370]

Jato,
Are you printing on a "raft" or, is the a protrusion for the part to sit into the fender? Hard to tell.

*Edit* Actually, I downloaded the file and looked at it. Maybe flip it over and print the posts down and use supports there. Then the other side might print better. I'm gonna try one and see how it turns out.

 

[Sniper4370]

 

[JatoTheRipper]

If you get rid of the part that fits into the hole, you can print it flat without supports. Either that, or do away with the studs that you are screwing into and just use nuts. Just a thought.

I thought about it, but I like the part that fits in the hole for a little more "sealing" and I didn't want to be bothered with nuts, but that would make the part much easier to print.

Jato,
Are you printing on a "raft" or, is the a protrusion for the part to sit into the fender? Hard to tell.

*Edit* Actually, I downloaded the file and looked at it. Maybe flip it over and print the posts down and use supports there. Then the other side might print better. I'm gonna try one and see how it turns out.

I was printing with the screw standoffs pointing up and the locating rectangle pointing down. I wanted the top surface to be the nice looking surface. Printing it the way you did makes it fit nice for sure.

 

[Inspector86]

I have not yet entered the 3D print arena. But given the current situation I'm looking at things to do while at home. To that end, I'm looking at the Creality CR-10 V2 or the Ender 3 Pro. Just not sure which is a better first printer and/or if the quality of one is better than the other. I'm leaning toward the CR-10 V2 but just not sure.

 

[Sniper4370]

I thought about it, but I like the part that fits in the hole for a little more "sealing" and I didn't want to be bothered with nuts, but that would make the part much easier to print.




I was printing with the screw standoffs pointing up and the locating rectangle pointing down. I wanted the top surface to be the nice looking surface. Printing it the way you did makes it fit nice for sure.

I can see that being the case. I will post a pic of the top side in a bit. Maybe you can lower the percentage of (infill for lack of a better term) in the slicer for the supports to get it to release better?

I have not yet entered the 3D print arena. But given the current situation I'm looking at things to do while at home. To that end, I'm looking at the Creality CR-10 V2 or the Ender 3 Pro. Just not sure which is a better first printer and/or if the quality of one is better than the other. I'm leaning toward the CR-10 V2 but just not sure.

My buddy just went through this last night. He was deciding between the Ender 3 Pro, 5 Pro and CR-10. He ended up going the 5 Pro. I think for the price it was the better option. At least between the 5 and 10. I myself have a 3 Pro with some light mods. My .02, I am far from a pro at anything 3d related. Only had my printer for a month or so now.