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What did you do to your TRX-4 today?

@Benp how are you going to lower the ride height but use the same DL shocks? Softer springs? Lighter oil?


The desert lizards come with springs that are 3 different lengths and each length has 3 different rates.

I plan on using a soft long and soft short one in each shock. I am currently running 2 medium softs per shock.
 
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Are you happy with this setup and just making a minor adjustment I hope ? You always have a plan.


Sorry, I missed this one.

Oh absolutely. I just want lower ride height.

I “thought” I could get it by mounting to the shocks to the axles as opposed to the stock lower mounts.

Come to find out the lower stock mounts are pretty good with samix mounts in front and the ierc mounts in rear.

The axle mounts only offered 8.xx mm lower mounting than stock.

The fronts didn’t seem to work as well as the rears for whatever reason, so I’m sticking with stock.

I’ve learned with the desert lizards that ride height is configured with the internal springs as well as dampening.

So, I’m going to change the medium soft length spring that pushes up on the piston to the long soft spring.

In the shock body above this, I’ll add a small soft or medium spring for the dampening and pushing down on the piston.

Here’s a shot of the directions that most likely will explain it better than I can. [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

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When driving the truck, I am very pleased how the suspension articulates.

I just want ride height lower. So I am going to wind up with minimal up travel and all of the drop. This is how I have the stockers set up.

The funny thing is that this is exactly how my 1:1 jeep wound up.

So we will see.

I’ve been very happy with the desert lizard shocks. Many many tuning options and Zero leaks, which I can’t say for the stock shocks.

The eclips are the only stinker. So the tool should make life a lot easier.
 
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The stock shocks are hard to get right. I have tried so many times but i always seem to end up with air in them. That and they stick when left overnight so that the first compression on any given day needs to be forced. I do like them but i just can't seem to get them perfect.
 
The stock shocks are hard to get right. I have tried so many times but i always seem to end up with air in them. That and they stick when left overnight so that the first compression on any given day needs to be forced. I do like them but i just can't seem to get them perfect.



I have this same issue. What gives?

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


My stock ones do the same. If truck has sat for a day or few, I just cycle the front and back suspension a few times at first and it’s fine.

The leaking i haven’t conquered yet and that is just an oily film.


The e clip tool showed up. Very very nice and works awesome.

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ETA- looking good so far. One on the right is the combination of soft short/long springs. Left is the 2 medium softs.

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Hopefully stays like this once oil is added. [emoji1696]

ETA 2 -

05e4c68aac00565493323d58f284a0ed.jpg


I think I’ll have my lowered ride height back. [emoji16]
 
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Ok, now I'm really confused! If that's fully extended you've lost droop haven't you? Compared to the stock ones anyway. Or am i misunderstanding the term droop? It looks like you have less "squishability" than the stock one and its shorter overall so less extension.

Or do the internal springs allow it to come out further?
 
I believe he set it up to have the body low with little up travel. What he is going for is the drop of the tire. When our trucks wheelie...his should keep letting the tire come down till it strikes a rock and helps pull. Where ours would rely on the tires not in the air. I think droop could be how much it is capable of dropping the piston or tire if you will....in his setup.
 
I believe he set it up to have the body low with little up travel. What he is going for is the drop of the tire. When our trucks wheelie...his should keep letting the tire come down till it strikes a rock and helps pull. Where ours would rely on the tires not in the air. I think droop could be how much it is capable of dropping the piston or tire if you will....in his setup.


Correct!!

Thank you Jeff for the better explanation than I could ever come up with! When I start talking/explaining things it’s like watching a lab chasing its tail. [emoji1787][emoji1787]


@mr_alister ,

The stock shocks will compress more but never go longer. The way mine are set up now is minimal compression but a lot more down travel. Now in a smaller package than stock.

I figured since I only go slow crawling, I don’t need a lot of uptravel.

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All I did was adjust ride height of the shocks by using long soft springs under the piston to push it up into the body. Which is how it sits put together. I have a small soft spring in the body above the piston for a bit of dampening when you compress the shock.

By using the soft springs the weight of the wheels extend the shock pretty easily. Which is both good and bad.

When I’m just crawling across rocks, it looks like a caterpillar motoring along.

I’m hoping by lowering the ride height now, that the front won’t raise up as much on steep climbs. So we’ll see.

Plus side now is the e clip tool makes it super easy to deal with taking apart the shocks. So biggest hassle for future tuning is letting the shocks drain.

ETA - point in case about lab chasing its tail. [emoji1787]
 
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I’ve always liked the Axial XJ body and decided to build one. Fits well on the TRX4 I think! Just a few finishing touches like RC4WD metal emblems and some trimming.
 

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Got the metal emblems on and snapped some pics at work. Ready for the weekend.
 

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That’s probably the best looking XJ I’ve seen, great job!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Got the shocks filled with 15wt all the way around and shocks back on.

I have 2 5/8” - 2 3/4” clearance from skid.
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With weight on the shocks right now she’s slammed. Oh well.

Ride height is pretty much how I had it with the stock shocks.

Im looking forward to trying this out.
 
I took my sidewinder 8th and 1406 4600kv castle motor out of my slash 4x4 and installed it in my trx4 today just for laughs. I was actually impressed with the sidewinder's programmability. Drag break seems pretty good! Gotta gear it down though, it's way too fast and i have very little low speed control. Doesnt do too much "cogging" but definitely doesn't crawl like my brushed system. Probably just go all the way down to as low as possible and see if its worth keeping. I've never owned a sensored brushless system...
 
She's already dirty. Been to anxious trying out the new parts, 8n the past few days, i have added Injora 4.7" o.d. tires to my amazon aluminum beadlock wheels, which i have weighted with stickys approx. 3-3.5 oz per wheel. They look like Hyrax Knock-offs IMHO.

Also added brass outer portal covers which are if i remember right, 43g a piece? Been a nice addition to the wonderful traction of these Injora Hyrax knockoffs! Also added a cheap amazon winch, (wired control right now, as the included winch controller only responded to reel-in or button B commands. Could get her figured out, so i tucked my 3 pos toggle infront of l.r. wheel on floorpan

Re-added my favorite light bar to the front of my TRX4 sport body via superglue...ugh, dont ask...though it came out well, and i also added an LED light switch/controller so i can use ch 4 on my FS-gt5 transmitter to control all of my running lights, roof light bar, front grille light bar on and off via the ch4 toggle. Small vid attached.

Also added samix high-clearance 8pc links set (titanium). Been AWESOME for the normal "hang-up" that has me on the way to rescue thinking " are you JOKING rn?! U coulda had that!". Lmfao.

Also added my 93g brass front bumper/servo mount, as well as change all shock's fluids to 27.5wt oil. And grease the shock o rings. Love the softness/reactive-ness i have now even with preload damn near maxed out!

Something went wrong uploading pics and vids, let me eat some dinner, and ill add the attachments.



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