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What did you do to you SCX-10 today?

I'm running a 13.5 Novak (sensored) brushless setup with a Mamba Max Pro ESC on 4s lipo, and yes it will crawl. The wheel speed is there if I want it, and I can make ants look like speed demons as well. Sensorless is a whole different ball game though

I would LOVE to see a video demo showing the slowest you can drive it as well as full throttle runs. That might convert me to going brushless. I run a pair of 35T brushed motors on a pair of 4s lipo's and it moves like a snail and pulls wheelstands.
 
It's actually not bad. I've got low speed control because I turned my controller up to a higher% throttle and it gives you better low speed control it's very surprising.
 
Upgraded the bucket lights on the bumper from 5mm leds to Crawlers ad v2 leds so now both the headlights and bumper lights are Crawleredad







I know output may not look like much but that walls not exactly close and my phone takes not so great night shots.

And the Ax10 deadbolt is also rocking Crawleredad v2 headlights and 5" v2 light bar

Still yet to come will be more Crawleredad v2 lights in the larger axial buckets on the rear of both rigs roof racks
 
Tj floor.
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I did a narrow XR10 mod to my JYD rig .
Part list included
RC Bros splined tubes RCBros » Burly Splined Tubes
XR10 shafts AXIAX30563
Axial overdrive gears AXI30401
VP Wraith knuckles VPS03200
VP Wraith C-hubs VPS02004
VP floating locker VPS05990 (I'm not happy with it) going back to my Stage 3 spool
VP Wraith race acker arm grey VPS03215
Avid bearing (same as stock)
Axial bushings for knuckles AX30450
First thing I did was cut the step off of the axle case even with the link mounts . That was 12mm total .

Next I cut 12mm off of the RC Bros splined tubs on the side away from the splines . This lets the tube slide back in to is stock place in the axle case . The splined part will now be next to the link mounts . The splines just replace the step that was cut off .

Drill and tap the tubes thru the case to keep them from spinning . Make sure you orientate the tubes the same on the left and right . Just line up one spline with something and do the same on the other side . This will let you clock the same on both sides . I drilled and taped in the front and back half . Look in the pics you will see the shinny button head screws .

Then set the C-hubs like you want them and drill and tape them top and bottom in to the tube .
I used the longer Wraith arms from VP and still needed to bent my tie rod . Oh and it ended up being 116mm . I just added a 10mm spacer for now . But the screw runs all the way thru . I don't use 2 set screws, so it should hold up .

Next I cut the flat spot off the XR10 shafts and make new ones . I think it was about 10mm I cut off of them . Don't get to crazy on the flat spots . Take the same amount from top and bottom and don't take to much .
I run a set of wide hexes and with them I'm 7 3/4" from hex to hex . With stock hex the axles will be same a stock width .
I will say this is not a cheap mod (pushing the $250.00 range) with all parts listed . It could be done cheaper with cheaper parts . It does take some skills but take your time and you can do it with simple hand tools .
 
Bought Robinson Racing transmission gears, STRC knuckles and a Holmes Hobbies Torquemaster 13T motor for my K5 Blazer "thumbsup" need to figure out what gear ratio to run so i can get this motor in
 
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