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Water Proofing Electronics

Thanks for the pictures and guide, appretiated. I'm guessing you're using the straw to blow the resin away from the plugs and stuff? Is it thin enough that it dissapates when you blow air towards it?

That's the type of water proofing i'd like. 100% pernament and untoucable by water.
 
Hardcoretam said:
Thanks for the pictures and guide, appretiated. I'm guessing you're using the straw to blow the resin away from the plugs and stuff? Is it thin enough that it dissapates when you blow air towards it?

That's the type of water proofing i'd like. 100% pernament and untoucable by water.
Click to expand...
Yes, and use the straw to drip epoxy around areas that need it. After about 20-25 minutes it will start to solidify. All the time you will be moving board around to get even flow. Be patient, and you will have nice clean job. After curing remove puddy. :wink:
 
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JohnRobHolmes said:
Just dip the whole motor in corrosion X. You may want to add conformal coating on top of the sensors, but with corrosion X you may not have to.
Click to expand...

Looking to waterproof a tekin pro 4. Also just looking to clarify just hold the motor by the wires and dip entire thing in corrosionX? Where can you get it? I'm in Canada so I'm hoping it sells here.
 
Only waterproof ESC's right out of the box I know of are Traxxas' line that are blue (XL-5, VXL-3s, VXL-3m), LRP's, and Holmes BRXL (with waterproof option).

I'd just use plastidip on a cheapo Sidewinder and cut out the excess on the heatsink fins. Then reassemble back into the case. Works like a charm. If you're running a CC BEC that would need to be waterproofed too (shrink wrap and pack some dielectric grease at the ends and zip tie shut).
 
Yup but I'm looking for motor info. Brushless sensor rings that need to be water tight. Is corrosion X seal them? No extra grease or liquid tape? How long do you dip it for? How often do you need to redo it? A how too on corrosion X would be handy
 
I did some you tubing lol and found guys using corrosion x to water proof everything on their rc's. Just dip let it sit for a few min, take it out let it sit on a cloth for a while so all the excess comes off an go. My TTC rig will be getting the whole treatment! Servo, servo winch, BEC, ESC, RX, and motor. Re apply every 6-12 months.
 
I read on another forum with boat rc guys they say more products are out their like corrosion X and they all work well. They advise to dip completely in the corrosion x for 24 hrs to make sure complete coverage and then let dry for 24 to allow for complete drying. YouTube corrosion X tv and watch a tv work under water I'm sold got a gallon $97 gonna last a life time and gonna pay for it's self the first yr the way I drive lol take it easy and hope this helped.
 
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Hunter711 said:
As product starts firming up, do your last touchups with the straw, being careful not to allow any to block connection ports, fan and sensor. A little practice and making sure all materials are clean, you should be good to go."thumbsup"
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Clean! My MMP is waiting for this ... are you using just a bit of catalyst? I don't know this line of resin, but figure any resin + a touch of catalyst + a little heat and patience would do? Or does the resin you're using have some diaelectro-mojo?
 
Hey guys i have had alot of experience water proofing scale trucks i have had so much trial and error i believe i do have it to a science now. I have made a couple submarines last year that under 5 foot of water still working just fine and thats also alot of fun too by the way.
If you have a waterproof servo.IT IS NOT! no servo out there is waterproof. after everyone ive tried i have taken case apart and found drops of water.Mainly for scale trucks or just fun trucks but outbound motors LOVE the water better than brushed in my opinion and act better submerged.My underwater rig has a full sidewinder and castle BEC(took them outta my crawler) What i did was went and bought a product called plasti-dip. You can get it at lowes or home depot. Take apart your speed controller and reciever for your radio and dip the boards in plasti-dip(follow instrucions on can but very easy). None of my electronics i have used in plasti-dip has ever got hot, even if they did its rated for hot and cold conditions. i also plasti-dipped my BEC as well. Then i balloon'd the esc and BEC together and the reciever by itself(2 balloons total) and you put a tad bit of BROWN RICE(yes i said BROWN RICE) in the balloon with the electronics, because balloons even though being sealed in hot weather and in and outta water they get a moisteryness inside balloon(not wet but just weird moistyness) And rice absorbs it all. Then after you put parts in balloons and wires out the entry of balloon throw a small ziptie (BE CAREFUL NOT TO PINCH BALLOON) around the opening nice and tight close to the electronics and a skinny tie the better the wider the tie the less it seals. Then use DIE-ELECTRIC Grease inside the left over neck of balloon from your first zip-tie to the end of balloon then place another small tie rap.(basically so your making a die electic grease BUBBLE compartment. (this makes it so no water can sneak in through the wires. Now i also just plasti-dipped servo board then put back in case(best thing to keep water out by servo horn is cover the center scew and all around the opening of case where servo horn comes out in DIE-Electric grease this stuff is awesome for water!! then you dont need to balloon your servo, besides that looks gay anyways IMO) Now you have a fully submergable very fun RC rig.Congratz now go play in the deepest water hole you can find ;) Also btw the whole battery connection is hog-wash if your using Lipo's. Its DC voltage and water has very minimal effect on crossing or shorting the connections. I just use Deans plugs on my battery ends and ive never taped ballooned or die greased anthing with the power.( all i know is lipo's never tried others so this message is if you intend on using lipos) Also a WISE TIP. ONLY USE FM OR AM radios for deep underwater . NO DIGITAL radio will work once antenna fully submerged otherwise your truck will just take off and you will have to get waist deep in water to retrieve.(trust me i know this from 3 times experience and 3 wet pairs of undies) ;) with FM <---- which is what i use. I have had my scaler truck 5 feet measured UNDERWATER. and it was a blast ;) alright guys peace out if anyone has any questions let me know ;)
 
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Rcc4P said:
Clean! My MMP is waiting for this ... are you using just a bit of catalyst? I don't know this line of resin, but figure any resin + a touch of catalyst + a little heat and patience would do? Or does the resin you're using have some diaelectro-mojo?
Click to expand...
Sorry, I have not checked in on this thread for awhile. Two to one mix. No heat needed. Try on something not important and practice first, and get use to the product. $20 shipped, lower 48.Here's the website: http://www.ecopoxysystems.com/store.html
 
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liquid electric taped my mmp and when i put my wraith back together i found that i can just barely see the leds flashing. should i worry and redo that part or is it good for some puddle and mud splashes(no submerging)?
 
I liquid electrical taped my Axial AE-2 ESC and I can't see any LEDs now but I don't really care. As long as it works I am happy. It still makes the motor beeps so that is good enough for me. I want to try CorrosionX but it is hard to get in Canada. I will have to order directly from CorrosionX one day. :D
 
@ zippo and bongrips:

LEDs are made in epoxy. The diode (thing that lights up) is encased in epoxy so the actual light is waterproof as it is made. Where it connects to the board is an electrical connection and should be sealed. I've liquid taped ESCs and Receivers and I just take an exacto knife and cut around the lights. Make sure you only remove the material from the top of the LEDs and not the sides or bottom. Just have the light visible. I've had great luck this way and no failures this way. Works on FX-R and Futaba receiver for me so far.

I also wanted to share that I have liquid tape'd 2 mamba max pros and put them in balloons. I've had motors very warm to the touch and the esc even in the balloon and coated is barely warm. So far it has worked great. I will update if I ever have a problem. My experience so far (only a few runs), has been great with them liquid taped and in balloons. Just FYI

I would also like to second hucklebuck's advice that you don't have to worry about battery connections. I've had many electronics underwater from receivers, BECs, motor, battery, all of it and never had any trouble from exposed connections.
 
thanks for making this thread it's been helpful for me. i am new to this hobby and have been wondering about the different metheds that are used to waterproof the electronics. i have been using plastidip and it seems to work good for me so far without any problems.
 
Water is enemy of electronic devices like computer, mobile phones, laptops and other. Now, there are some waterproof machines as I know about which are running motors in water and waterproof watch. There are also very useful information given by this thread to waterproof electronics.
 
Check out DJmedic2008 on youtube. Type like "waterproofing rc's Djmedic2008." i havnt done it yet but it seems affective. He uses plasta dip on everything. :idea:
 
How about how to waterproof a Pro 4 and a redline motor?

And any info on the Corrosion X HD, If anyone's used it on their electronics and how it went.

:badger:
 
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