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Water Proofing Electronics

But can you apply that same type of plasti dip to the internal board directly. What's the difference between plastidip and liquid electric tape?

Yes you can apply both of these directly to the servo board. Realize that you are voiding warranties when you do this. Waterproofing RC stuff is not for the faint of wallet. I've thrown away a good $250 worth of electronics from either bad wiring or bad waterproofing, and the motors wear faster in the water too.

The difference is that liquid electrical tape is made to seal electrical connections. To me it is designed to be non-conductive and to go on electrical components. Plasti-dip is intended to coat things, mainly tool handles to provide a rubbery grip. I assume it is non-conductive as well or people wouldn't use it on circuit boards. So with regard to waterproofing electronics, they are functionally equivalent. I believe plasti-dip is thicker (more viscous) too.

As a side note, I've never used plasti dip on my own stuff. Liquid tape works for me and I stick to it. I believe people tend to use the spray can type of plasti-dip for circuit boards, but I assume either would work.
 
i am looking to make a custom electronics box to go on my honcho, (cant use the stock box for this). i would like some suggestions on making a top that is waterproof and openable.
 
So, I took apart my new Hobbywing Xerun motor today and took a picture of the sensor rings. Ive read around about waterproofing a sensored motor and all you have to do is waterproof the sensor rings. But, do i also need to waterproof the sensors themselves? Those are the sensors running up and down between the rings right? Thats what im guessing. Other people have said that they just used liquid electrical tape on the rings, but what about the sensors? I was also thinking of just dipping the whole thing in corrosion X. I can take more pics of the motor and the sensor if you want... http://www.rcuniverse.com/buynow/keywordclick.cfm?bid_id=7203
Oj26099.jpg
 
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is there any anyone try to use Automotive UNDERCOATING for water proofing ESC and receiver?

Have you ever actually used undercoating? Its basically crap you spray on to hide rust from unsuspecting buyers. Ive never seen that stuff prevent rust only hide so don't expect it to waterproof anything. Home depot sells an auto/marine grade clear silicone that only like 5 bucks. Waterproofed my MMP and receiver with that stuff. Tested them yesterday after spilling a cup of coffee on my scaler. Covered everything and was pissed so just dunked the whole thing in the sink to clean it battery and all. Works great.
 
Have you ever actually used undercoating? Its basically crap you spray on to hide rust from unsuspecting buyers. Ive never seen that stuff prevent rust only hide so don't expect it to waterproof anything. Home depot sells an auto/marine grade clear silicone that only like 5 bucks. Waterproofed my MMP and receiver with that stuff. Tested them yesterday after spilling a cup of coffee on my scaler. Covered everything and was pissed so just dunked the whole thing in the sink to clean it battery and all. Works great.

If that clear silicon smells like vinegar when it cures it will eat away at any exposed metals over time, particularly copper!
 
So, I took apart my new Hobbywing Xerun motor today and took a picture of the sensor rings. Ive read around about waterproofing a sensored motor and all you have to do is waterproof the sensor rings. But, do i also need to waterproof the sensors themselves? Those are the sensors running up and down between the rings right? Thats what im guessing. Other people have said that they just used liquid electrical tape on the rings, but what about the sensors? I was also thinking of just dipping the whole thing in corrosion X. I can take more pics of the motor and the sensor if you want... http://www.rcuniverse.com/buynow/keywordclick.cfm?bid_id=7203
Oj26099.jpg


Just dip the whole motor in corrosion X. You may want to add conformal coating on top of the sensors, but with corrosion X you may not have to.
 
I've just coated my RTR Honcho electronic parts with liquid electrical tape. The only part i've not done is the servo. It'll get done shortly.
I've also filled up the enclosures with dielectric grease so it's like a double protection. i.e if the water manages to get past the grease, it can't get onto the board directly because of the tape.

I'm going to use some water repellent (sp?) grease as well and silicone on the plastic outer casing of the servo and reciever box to keep water from even entering before the dielectric grease and / or liquid tape need to prove their worth. Probably OTT but if it's going to get dunked now and then you can't be too safe
 
Have you ever actually used undercoating? Its basically crap you spray on to hide rust from unsuspecting buyers. Ive never seen that stuff prevent rust only hide so don't expect it to waterproof anything. Home depot sells an auto/marine grade clear silicone that only like 5 bucks. Waterproofed my MMP and receiver with that stuff. Tested them yesterday after spilling a cup of coffee on my scaler. Covered everything and was pissed so just dunked the whole thing in the sink to clean it battery and all. Works great.

@crawlerking69 i just try it today, i spray Undercoating in to a container then i dip the reciever without its housing, i let it dry for almost 8hrs.

and then i also try to dip the reciever into the water while using it, so far so good its still working even under the water, but im not sure if can still hold for long time under the water...

its hard for me to find PlastiDip and Liquid tape here in our place,

sorry for my english im not good in english! thanks !
 
Can you post a picture of that once it's applied and set on the board?
Have everything ready including a straw. This come's in very helpful to keep product out of ports and to drip on board as viscosity starts firming up. A heat gun comes in handy to. Denatured alcohol cleans board of release agents used during manufacture. You should put a little plummer's puddy or clay in connection ports which can easily be removed after curing.
 

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As product starts firming up, do your last touchups with the straw, being careful not to allow any to block connection ports, fan and sensor. A little practice and making sure all materials are clean, you should be good to go."thumbsup" Product link: http://www.ecopoxysystems.com/store.html
 

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