We built the chassis' first. Was quick and easy. As has been mentioned 1000 times, it's surpisingly rigid. I'm eager to see how the suspension will act given a nice solid platform to work from instead of a noodle.
I decided to make my own stainless links. It turned into quite a job. I've done them many times but it's been a while. I got the ends too hot when grinding to size and it made tapping a nightmare. I broke a couple taps and had to redo several links.
1/4" stainless rod. Drill and tap the ends for 8-32 threads. Cut segments of 8-32 all-thread. Assemble with rod end of choice (Revo ends here). I've never seen one break.
One of the first things we decided was to swap to all stainless steel hardware. I get scale hardware from McMaster-Carr. Good prices and good parts. We did stay with bigger socket head hardware instead of pan heads. They don't look as clean but I like the idea Vanquish had because the bigger hex is much easier to work with. I think it looks nice with stainless screws.
LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOVE these Vanquish wheels!!
One of my first big challenges was setting up panhard/CMS. It's my first go at it. It would be fairly simple but I wanted a nice long wheelbase (12.5" is where we ended up). This means a lot of moving and "adjusting" parts of the chassis. It is designed to allow for shifting shocks links around really well. My main problem was the panhard mount can only be placed so far forward. I will have to drill a hole in the chassis *GASP*
I had to shift the steering servo over a half a set of holes. There isn't a spot there so I used the dig/2 speed servo mount included with the chassis to act as a drill guide. I bolted it up half a set of holes off so the further set lined up my drill perfectly. I just had to carefully use a hacksaw to cut a small grove for the servo webbing to clear.
I ended up pretty happy with the front steering setup. The axle is clocked upward just a bit to allow for a slight bend in the front lower links. The panhard bar misses the upper link mounts on the axle by half-a-hair.
My last truck I brazed a bolt onto the steering link to avoid the need to stack the drag link and steering bar on the knuckle. It worked great but when the steering bar could rotate on the link ends it added a good bit of slop in the steering. This time around I'm having none of that.
I ground down the ball ends and boled them up with a washer on top so the steering bar can only pivot NOT rotate. It's nice and tight now!
Got tired of looking at the brass colored parts. Powder coated them smoke chrome in an attempt to match the SSD knuckles. Nowhere close but they look nice and the somewhat light color won't show scratches as bad (or so I hope).
WARNING: what you see next is pretty graphic. It may disturb younger viewers. Do not proceed if you are easily disturbed.
I'm kidding of course, but as much as I love this chassis, I want 90 degree approach and departure angles. The extra half inch of plastic supporting the fuel tank is in my way. Also it only has enough room for a reciever and maybe a BEC. I need something a little roomier. More on that later. I did my best to make the cut clean looking as I could.
I decided before I even finished building the transmission that I wanted the steel gears. Once they came in I went ahead and installed them. Got the aluminum spur plates too. When building it the first time I thought I could make an axial spur gear work and get the 32p teeth. It worked out perfectly and is the only axial part on this SCX10.2 build (aside from the body of course).
Clearance on the newer scx 2 axles is much improved. The SSD diamonds are tucked way up there. Comparing my old faithful Toyota clearance to the new build. It's about 8mm higher.
At first I was going to mount the electronics on the side trays. I built a radio box but I hated it. It was huge heavy and in the way. Scrapped that idea. Biggest problem is the Mamba X is kind of big to fit on the side trays. Plan B was much nicer and I ended up with a fairly simple plate to mount the ESC. I absoultely HATE ugly messy wiring on a chassis. I'm going to work to make it as clean and tidy as I can. I used the dig bracket again to layout drill holes perfectly.
That takes care of only one component. So more space was needed. Now to build a box for the rest of the electrics. Wonder where I could find a beautifully designed lid for an electronics box...
Apply some styrene diamond plating
Paint it up
Decided to clear gloss over the primer so it won't be permanently dirty looking
Next I'm tackling a battery tray. The Vanquish chassis has a beautiful aluminum plate. Normally I'd roll with it, but I am trying my best to build for performance so I'll see if I can get the battery a bit lower and more forward.
Bent a teeny tiny bracket for on top of this mount on the chassis.
I zip-tied the suspension to full stuff so I could carefully position the tray as low as possible without hitting links or driveshaft. It's since been brazed but needs some love to make it look better. Once I get these all sorted, I'll powder coat them something beautiful. I plan on doing a blue metallic accents theme. My buddy's truck will have either red or gloss black metal work.
I'll update as I get more done, but as I mentioned doing everything twice takes.... well twice as long.
Thanks for looking 8)
