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*** Twin Force Upgrades ***

willyrocket said:
Now, if we could find and endless supply of axle housings...... We would be set.


:roll:


RCP CRAWLERS,they are a Kyosho dealer"thumbsup" PM rockpiledriver.
 
I've been thinking of getting a set of Twin axles, but I have some questions.

1. How long will the stock diff gears hold up to abuse? Should I replace them right off the bat?

They will last quite well. Raptorman has a set that he shimmed up tight. That is the key. When they shear then get the 4.3's.

2. Stock hubs are 17mm, correct? Is it worth replacing the stubs with Savage's, or just use wheels with a 17mm hub?

All you need is the 14mm hex that is inside the adapter. The Savage stubs are stronger because they are solid. You can also use the Savage 19mm adapter for Moab XL's too.

3. Should I replace the spiders with stronger units even if I am just going to JBWeld them together?

Don't bother. They are useless when you weld them.

4. Is there anything else I need to know about them?

Nope. Trying to get it all in this sticky.

Thanks. BTW, I would appreciate the help ASAP (tower savings offer ends today. :lol:)

Sorry it took so long to answer you Q's. Been busy with life.

Erock
 


I use the Kyosho brand of that exact part. IMHO,it's the best option for running the Axial beadlocks or any wheel that runs a 17mm hex. With this style of hex,you don't really need the wheelnuts anymore. I've got 3 broken stubs I can and still run on my super because I run this style of hex. The stubs broke off at the threads for the wheelnut. Any other type of hex,as far as I know,the stub would be junk.
 
Anyone have a exploded veiw of the axles with PN's. None of the 1st post pics work or that would probly help a a ton.
 
Was just looking at the Maximizer Locker #2356. Does the CEN LOCKER (ceg-gs013) mentioned earlier also work well, direct fit?

Thanks
 
Here's a couple Kyosho CVDs (actually U joints) that will work.
Thanks Reflection and CDW for the info.

Here is a CV Tech thread I started, and lost track of, with some very good info: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172895&highlight=shaft+tech

IFW162
These are same length as the long side according to CDW


IFW142 (90.7mm long) This will get you 1/4-3/8" wider than 2 short sides.

Stock short side. Actual length, pin centers, 91.1mm
IMG_4109.jpg

IFW162B These are long.

With stock long side. Actual length, pin centers, 129.69mm. Gonna have to mod these to work.
IMG_4108.jpg

IFW163 These are also long but you can run 14mm hex.
 
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Sorry guys,I've not been able to get to my LHS to measure them.

They are all axles from the Kyosho 777 buggy if I remember right. Just going on memory,I'd say they'll put you about 1/4-3/8" wider per side on the long and short length's. I'm gonna have to go there next week to pick up my sons Christmas presents,so I'll measure them when I go.

Just a bit of info for thought.....IF you run these,you'll have the sharpest turning radius you've ever seen from a shaftie. I trimmed my knuckles and hub carriers and went a bit to far, I had to then LIMIT my steering:lol: I'll try to get my 14r a bit closer to completion this weekend and post pictures.

If you've not seen my Mudslinger test movies,theres a few shots in there where you can see the turning my super had with these axles. Since then,I've trimmed my stops even more:lol: Going to a shorter wheelbase,I think it will now turn within itself:lol::lol::lol::twisted:

Heres the videos....part 1 and 2

Part 1

Part 2
 
Hey guys,lets keep the jibber jabber out of this thread if we can. Keep it clean and easy to get the info you need"thumbsup" If you got questions,look through the forum,search or start a thread."thumbsup"

When I get a bit of time,I'll go through this thread and clean it up.
 
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