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SteveC6R’s Bulletproof & Option Guide for the Yeti

Don't do that, it will just make you sick. 8) Also, DO NOT tell your significant other or risk being shot on site. :shock:
Lol. Been there when I started kitesurfing. Didn't get shot though. (I ducked [emoji6] ). I feel the same discussion coming up in the near future...
Here's another excuse for a kit; you can spread the bills a bit.
 
Get a temp gun so you can monitor the motor temps. Also get a larger pinion or two. I think people run 20 and 22 with the stock motor. I just picked up a larger one for the new motor I will drop in. It should help speed quite a bit.
 
Sub'd for later use.

Thanks for the guide SC6R! It'll be a big help when I start upgrading. On that note...suggestions on where to start?

Start with going out and running the hell out of it, lol. The front end is what needs the most attention, a better servo which will show you just how weak the plastic is. After that everything connected to steering...rack, bellcranks, double sheer steering posts, and front links. A metal spur gear and trailing arms or plates would be next and should do you for a while.
 
Start with going out and running the hell out of it, lol. The front end is what needs the most attention, a better servo which will show you just how weak the plastic is. After that everything connected to steering...rack, bellcranks, double sheer steering posts, and front links. A metal spur gear and trailing arms or plates would be next and should do you for a while.

Any issue with starting with trailing arms since the UCFab anodized are so cheap? That's likely the first thing I'm buying for that very reason.
 
Also order some stiffer or longer front springs and some shock oil. I use Team Associated brand oil which is a little thicker than standard oil. I run 20 in the back and the 30 I have in the front is far too thin. I am thinking 50 may be needed. I also run the 70mm springs in the front at 3.55 pounds per inch. That way I can actually use the spring collars to adjust the front ride height. The stock 54 MM springs need to be threaded all the way down to keep the ride height correct. I also have the nearly 5 pound per inch 54 MM springs in the front that many are using, but I have not installed them and with a little thicker oil I think I may stay with my existing set up.
 
Want to replace the plastic driveshaft cups on your Wildboar shafts, STRC has what your looking for, sold separately or in packs of three. Also works with SCX10 and Wraiths using the 4mm style Wildboar shafts.

tH3hfQZ.jpg
 
Get a temp gun so you can monitor the motor temps. Also get a larger pinion or two. I think people run 20 and 22 with the stock motor. I just picked up a larger one for the new motor I will drop in. It should help speed quite a bit.

I thought everyone was going lower with pinions on the stock setup.. What is stock 16T? I thought i was hearing to goto like a 12 or 14t to help with cogging and thermal issues..
 
I thought everyone was going lower with pinions on the stock setup.. What is stock 16T? I thought i was hearing to goto like a 12 or 14t to help with cogging and thermal issues..

I don't crawl. My motor temps are 120 degrees for whatever reason. I am running plastic wheels and my playground is open dirt. So up we go! I also happened to have maybe ordered a leopard 4065 2700 KV motor last night. I will use a 24T pinion and 56 tooth spur for that arrangement. If my calculations are correct, that will result in a net top speed gain of approximately 15% which would be fine with me. For 45 bucks, why the heck not give it a try?
 
I run a 64/12 but my rig is mainly a crawler/G6 type setup, a buddy of mine has a 56/18 I believe and I thought mine could get some air time on hill jumps until I saw his. He hasn't had any temp issues but we both also run Tekin Pro4 HD 3000kv motors. I can't speak for the stock motors.
 
rear end:

housing: Dlux (uses 5x13 inner pinion bearing) optional: Vp aluminum ar60 or currie
bearing caps: Vanquish products
lockouts: Vanquish products
axle shafts: Axial
lockers: Locked up fi spool, vanquish, super shafty, hot racing
gears: Axial hd, choose your flavor
truss: Vanquish products
link mounts: Vanquish products
bearings: Use a quality bearing such as fasteddy or avid


editors note:

i recently blew out the rear inner pinion bearing in my currie using a pro4 hd 3000kv. After doing some research and speaking with rowdy i ended up going with what he and his club have been using. It's an avid thrust bearing, size 5x11x4.5mm. If your using an aluminum axle there is no bearing mod like the dlux housing so it's something to keep an eye on if your using a stock type inner pinion bearing. Locked up rc also makes a bushing called the mini loco that is also supposed to be a fix for this problem, but i can not speak to how well it works.


i need the vanquish suite of rear end parts!
 
I run a 64/12 but my rig is mainly a crawler/G6 type setup, a buddy of mine has a 56/18 I believe and I thought mine could get some air time on hill jumps until I saw his. He hasn't had any temp issues but we both also run Tekin Pro4 HD 3000kv motors. I can't speak for the stock motors.


What is the difference in speed between yours and his if you had to guess? %? I am looking to approach that 30 mph mark and am wondering how much the 56T spur changes things.
 
sub'd for when the wraith build is finished. it was a good read too, didn't know the rear shocks had 10wt oil, will be swapping that out for some 25wt tonight in the garage
 
At the moment you have to use a locker, Erik is working on an open diff setup but I'm not sure how close it is to release.
 
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