SteveC6R’s Bulletproof & Option Guide for the Yeti

[SteveC6R]

I’ve thought about doing this for a few weeks now using a similar structure that Harley used for his Wraith guide. It’s an excellent read and contains a wealth of information that can be applied to any platform, not just a Wraith. I don’t have a YouTube channel or have the clout that some do here but I do enjoy the hobby and being able to help others out. You can click the link in my signature to my local clubs website or find us on YouTube.

With the release of the Yeti I have noticed an influx of new people to the forum which is not only good for Axial and RCC, but for the hobby itself. But, I’ve seen a lot of threads that ask the same question that has been answered in another thread or in a build thread. I guess searching is a lost art form at times so I thought I would attempt to put it all in one area. Also, keep in mind that there is no such thing as making something 100% bulletproof, but you can make efforts to help insure that you spend more time running than broken.

Also I am a Vanquish Products fan boy, I will recommend a VP product over a competing product every time for the simple reason that I am biased. And no, VP does not sponsor me. There are a lot of great vendors out there that make excellent products so look around at all the options before making a decision.

I won’t be supplying specific links as companies change their websites, etc. and they become broken. Google and the search button is your friend.

Please support the following vendors that support our hobby and RCC:

RPP Hobby
Tower Hobbies
Vanquish Products
Crawler Innovations
CKRC Crawlers
Carter Fab & Machine
Locked Up RC
Dlux Fab
Blue Monkey RC
Super Shafty

 

[SteveC6R]

Front End:

Housing: Dlux (uses a 5x13 inner pinion bearing)
Gears: Axial HD Gears, choose your flavor
Diff: see below
A-Arms: RPM
Knuckles: Vanquish Products
Knuckle Carrier: Vanquish Products, STRC, Hot Racing
Axles: Axial Yeti 94mm Universals (optional but not bullet proof) or custom setup from Dlux Fab or BMRC, see below
Shock Tower: Vanquish Products, Axial Machined, STRC, Hot Racing
Shock Tower Front Adjuster: Vanquish Products
Toe Block: Axial F1 (not necessary IMO but gives some adjustability & added strength)
Hinge Pins: Lunsford Titanium for outer, Axial for the 61mm inner ($2.49 for pack of 6)
Bearings: Use a quality bearing such as FastEddy or Avid

Options:

Diff - Open: This one depends what you are looking for, an open diff or locked. If open is your flavor then 500k fluid is the choice of many. Also HPI spider gears are an upgrade over stock.

Diff - Locked: There are several options here from using a cheap Axial iron cross locker to a Locked Up Fi Spool such as I have used. Other options include VP, Super Shafty Spools, or Holmes Hobbies. Axial has released a locker for the front that secures the output shafts and it's a very nice piece, see Post #12 for more.

Blue Monkey is another option if you want to use a custom MIP CVD setup.

Erik Dlux also makes a kit using his custom made knuckles and OFNA shafts that is for those that need the ultimate in strength.

 

[SteveC6R]

Rear End:

Housing: Dlux (uses 5x13 inner pinion bearing) Optional: Beef Tubes for stock plastic housing, VP aluminum AR60, Currie, or SSD
Bearing Caps: Vanquish Products
Lockouts: Vanquish Products
Axle Shafts: Axial
Lockers: Locked Up FI Spool, Vanquish, Super Shafty, Holmes Hobbies, Hot Racing
Gears: Axial HD, choose your flavor
Truss: Vanquish Products
Link Mounts: Vanquish Products
Bearings: Use a quality bearing such as FastEddy or Avid


Editors Note:

I recently blew out the rear inner pinion bearing in my Currie using a Pro4 HD 3000kv. After doing some research and speaking with Rowdy I ended up going with what he and his club have been using. It's an Avid Thrust bearing, size 5x11x4.5mm. If your using an aluminum axle there is no bearing mod like the Dlux housing so it's something to keep an eye on if your using a stock type inner pinion bearing. Locked Up RC also makes a bushing called the Mini Loco that is also supposed to be a fix for this problem, but I can not speak to how well it works.

 

[SteveC6R]

Steering:

Rack: Vanquish Products
Double Sheer Steering Rack: Vanquish Products
Bell Cranks: Vanquish Products, Hot Racing (upgraded bearing) or STRC
Servo Saver: There’s a couple things you can do here to help. You can put a 5x10mm bearing or a couple of washers on top of the spring to pre-load it. Or you can lock it out; Duuuuuuuude makes a Delrin lockout kit, see the vendor section.
Servo Turnbuckle: Lunsford Titanium or equivalent with Revo ends


Transmission and Driveline:

Spur Gear: Axial Machined Spur, comes in 4 flavors
Pinion Gear: Robinson Racing, Axial
Slipper Plates: Axial Machined Slipper Plates
Motor Mount: Axial Machined
Transfer Case: Hot Racing
Driveshafts/Hub: MIP
Bearings: Use a quality bearing such as FastEddy or Avid

**Robinson Racing offers a complete Gen3 slipper kit, see post #69 for more info.


Suspension:

Front Links: Vanquish Products, Carter Fab - If you want adjustability then use turnbuckles, Axial has released a aluminum turnbuckle kit or make your own.
Rear Upper Links: Vanquish Products
Trailing Arms: Vanquish Products, SSD, UC Fab, Blue Monkey
4 Link Mount: Axial Machined
Rear Shock Mount Plates: Axial Machined
Sway Bar: Axial (soft is stock), Vanquish Currie, UC Fab/Dlux Links
Sway Bar Clamps: Axial Machined Clamps
Shock Caps/Retainers: STRC aluminum caps & retainers
Shocks: coming soon
Note: stock shock oil is 30wt front and 10wt rear

Option: If your looking for more flexibilty from the rear, Carter Fab makes a quick disconnect sway bar kit for the Yeti. I have one on mine and it's quick and simple to use.


Wheels and Tires/Foams:

Wheels: I use VP Method wheels as my wheel of choice with Carter Fab True 1” cans. If your U4 racing or something along those lines the CI Six Bolt wheels are lightweight and very strong. Carter Fab has also released a licensed Method Mesh wheel made from Delrin that's very nice. There are many options out there; it just depends on your wallet and what you like.

Foams: Crawler Innovations, ‘nuff said (CI foam choices will depend on your tire choice, etc.)

Tires: Once again this is something that is purely up to you and your needs. I use BFG Krawlers and have had great luck with them. The Ottsix VooDoo U4 is another great choice.

Bodies:

Bodies made specifically for the Yeti currently are the stock Yeti body and Pro-Line has just released a VW Baja body also.
Carter Fab also makes aluminum panels if you're looking for a different look all together.

 

[SteveC6R]

Stage 1

Wheels
Tires / Foams
Trailing arms
Upper links
Steel spur gear
Driveshaft
Hinge pins

Stage 2**

Steering rack
Bell cranks
Double sheer steering posts
Caster / Camber links
Knuckles
Carrier hubs
Servo turnbuckle
A-Arms

Stage 3

Locker (rear)*
Shocks / Shock caps (aluminum)
Motor mount
Slipper plates
F/R housings - Dlux, Beef Tubes (plastic rear housing), aluminum or thrust bearings
HD Diff gears
Axial universals, Dlux/OFNA kit or BMRC kit

Stage 4

Shock tower
Toe block
Bearing caps
Lockouts
Truss
Link mounts
4 link mounts
Shock link mounts (rear)
Sway bar clamps
Transfer case

*Front will depend on locked or open.
**Stage 2 is based on a upgraded servo to get the full benefits.

I have based the upgrades on my personal experiences and of others in the stages I believe they should be addressed. My rig is setup as a crawler / G6 type rig so your needs may differ from mine.

 

[the_ocho]

I would like to add for cheap front suspension links. Use traxxas 49mm turnbuckles like part number 3643. You just gotta swap the balls out for the ones used in revo ends pn 5347.

 

[QDRHRSE]

Has anybody every priced out what a fully done up truck would cost? I'm a die hard racer and am new to anything other than 1/10 offroad. I don't mind spending the money at all but I'd like to know exactly what I'm getting into. Seems to me to build the truck that I want it would cost more than the truck itself in upgrades not including electronics. Does anybody make a huge ugrade kit?

 

[SteveC6R]

It will cost more than the truck but once again, is it all necessary? No, it really depends on your needs and budget. I could of bought 3 Yetis for what I've got invested in one.

 

[lawhorn_derrick]

I added up my tickets and I'm sitting right at 1350 and it still hasn't even been driven yet... mmp should be here tomorrow then maybe

 

[QDRHRSE]

Is that w/wo electronics? I don't have an actual Yeti yet but I've already got at least $500 into the project. RX8, 4300 HD, Servo and Sanwa 92014 RX.

 

[lawhorn_derrick]

That's just with the servo so far. Of course that is all new prices...new vp wheels and all

 

[SteveC6R]

Another option that has flown under the radar for locking the front diff is the Axial front diff locker, part #AX31182, available at Tower. It is supposed to allow for securing the out drives to the locker for those that are concerned about it.

 

[SteveC6R]

New wheel option from Carter Fab, licensed Method Mesh 2.2 wheels. "thumbsup"

 

[SteveC6R]

Some More Axial option parts, from Axial's website:

Hard anodized 2mm aluminum upper link plate set adds durability and stiffness of the rear 4 link suspension.

Lower

Upper

 

[SteveC6R]

I've updated a couple things most notably the axles. After a few months using these I have broken three, two in the same day. They bend very easily and twist before breaking. It appears they're made of a cable type material and then coated. I'm not the only one having this issue with them, several members of my local club are also bending them severely and breaking them. I have a set of Hot Racing unis on the way to see how they hold up. A Blue Monkey/MIP setup may be the only truly bullet proof option there is in the long run.

 

[SteveC6R]

Hot Racing and STRC have both released several upgrades for the Yeti, most notably aluminum bell cranks but with their own rack. I chose the HR setup because it has a bigger bearing on the servo saver side. It also uses brass bushings in the rack which is a nice touch and the spring seems to be much stiffer than the stock one. Note that the HR rack is not aluminum but made of graphite.

STRC Bellcranks/Rack

 

[SteveC6R]

STRC aluminum/graphite battery brace.

 

[.com]

I added mine up today. I've got just under $1650 into my yeti. I feel a little sick. I'm also in the process of building a deadbolt and have about $800 into it. Feeling even more sicker....

 

[SteveC6R]

Don't do that, it will just make you sick. 8) Also, DO NOT tell your significant other or risk being shot on site. :shock:

 

[SteveC6R]

Another upgrade part from Hot Racing is an aluminum transfer case.