*edit* WARNING THIS THREAD CONTAINS LOTS OF PICTURES. seriously.. I warned you lol
Finally got to start the thread, its pissing rain out, and I just finished installing my lights. How wonderful! LOL.
So here it is. Some parts curtousy and thanks to crawlhog
SCX10 Honcho kit.
Axial 27t
Axial AE-1 ESC *****->upgraded to Novak Super Rooster for $20 at LPS (pawn)
Axial AX-1 Transmitter
Axial AR-1 Receiver
3x 1000mah ni-cd next tech batteries. (on the TODO upgrade list.) *****->upgrade 4500mah high energy 8.4v
ND1003 Exceed RC Servo (broken teeth) ******-> upgraded to hitec 645MG
Steering balls replaced with Traxxis Rod end steel balls.
*oldedit* Upgrades.
4 link using servo plate Home Made links with threaded rod and aluminum tubing, using Traxxis Rod ends for only front, to make up the 13" required for body and interior sitting above transmission spur. Still stock 3 link in rear.
*edit*
Updated July 1st 2011
Spec list
Waterproofed Novak Super rooster reversible ESC
Stock Spur 87t
Axial 27Turn with 21,25 tooth pinion, RC4WD 35turn 14,15tooth pinion
Hitec 645MG
Waterproofed rx Axial Ax-1 Ar-1 2ch
#8 threaded rod, traxxis rod ends, aluminum tubing 4 link with bent back and traxxis metal balls.
Spike's custom 29 LED system Fog lights, Brake lights (doesn't dim), reverse lights (attatched to esc), Light bar, running turn lights (no blink)
Mickey Thomsons Baja Claws 1.9 @ 120mm tall (14mm taller than flat irons)
3racing winch @ 8.4v nimh
Electricfly 3800mah 8.4v nimh
High Energy 4600 mah 8.4v nimh
Steel transmission output upgrade.
2 ounce weights back
1 ounce front/spare
Spike's towropes, bungee cords.
stock scx10 shocks
*oldedit*
Mods.
-Home made LED kit with resisters, and blue ground effects
-moved esc/receiver to back of chassis.
-Mounted battery on high upwards angle to fit inside dashboard of interior.
-Drilled holes in front bumper to extend farther out.
-Drilled holes in body mounts to raise front end up 2mm
-Using aluminum plate with velcro to mount body on chassis. Using velcro so the body slides on impact, or falls off... thanks to RCC for most of the upgrades i've done so far.
-Using spare parts from kit, I drilled holes in chassis and made mount farther back to sit perfectly with aluminum plate and velcro. (see pictures on 2nd page for better understanding)
-cut SUV body mounts to sit inside back seats to prevent body from sliding back and forth and the spur gear grinding the front seat.
-added 16mm aluminum plates to lower front shocks, and removed 3/4 of all bumpstops. Also did this upgrade because steering link was hitting chassis. and servo horn was hitting mount, which i removed.
-added 3 connectors, 1 for rear and front lights of body for removal of body. another for reverse lights which wire directly to the ESC. and the last is for the hardtop body break light
and much much much more.
Building Chassis, building kit.
Getting everything mounted.
I seen a thread with velcro, I copied that idea. mounted my body (Thanks to whom I seen this idea.)
Made a rear plate for the parralel batteries, and distributing weight.
Cleaned up wires
Body is mounted, Removed side step to fit rock sliders
Better pics in sun with rear tire mounted, and rear brake light mounted in body.
Here I'm mounting wires for LEDs, mounted rear brake lights, fog lights
Light switch on the right, and connector for lights (computer fans connection)
Got lights working!
Still got to:
-buy and install 6mm spacers to make up the 13" wheel base required for jeep body (ordered)
-install RC4WD 35T motor (shipped and on its way)
-paint body red (keeping hardtop/flairs black)
-build jerry can holder and mount out of aluminum
-paint interior
-buy new servo gears or new servo.
-4 link the rear. purchase links and truss (half decided whether i want to make my own links or buy the upper arms)
-purchase 5000mah Sub C or C batteries to make own or buy good mah battery
Thats all for now guys, any input is appreciated, any opinions too, what you guys think??? Budget build, this cost only 308 kit with tax. electronics $30 and batteries were for my old New Bright Jeep they were only $10 each, so $30 for a grand total of $360. 7.5 hours to build chassis and mount everything including Jeep Body. 3 hours to install and wire lights. and 1 second of rain to ruin my fun
Finally got to start the thread, its pissing rain out, and I just finished installing my lights. How wonderful! LOL.
So here it is. Some parts curtousy and thanks to crawlhog
SCX10 Honcho kit.
Axial 27t
Axial AE-1 ESC *****->upgraded to Novak Super Rooster for $20 at LPS (pawn)
Axial AX-1 Transmitter
Axial AR-1 Receiver
3x 1000mah ni-cd next tech batteries. (on the TODO upgrade list.) *****->upgrade 4500mah high energy 8.4v
ND1003 Exceed RC Servo (broken teeth) ******-> upgraded to hitec 645MG
Steering balls replaced with Traxxis Rod end steel balls.
*oldedit* Upgrades.
4 link using servo plate Home Made links with threaded rod and aluminum tubing, using Traxxis Rod ends for only front, to make up the 13" required for body and interior sitting above transmission spur. Still stock 3 link in rear.
*edit*
Updated July 1st 2011
Spec list
Waterproofed Novak Super rooster reversible ESC
Stock Spur 87t
Axial 27Turn with 21,25 tooth pinion, RC4WD 35turn 14,15tooth pinion
Hitec 645MG
Waterproofed rx Axial Ax-1 Ar-1 2ch
#8 threaded rod, traxxis rod ends, aluminum tubing 4 link with bent back and traxxis metal balls.
Spike's custom 29 LED system Fog lights, Brake lights (doesn't dim), reverse lights (attatched to esc), Light bar, running turn lights (no blink)
Mickey Thomsons Baja Claws 1.9 @ 120mm tall (14mm taller than flat irons)
3racing winch @ 8.4v nimh
Electricfly 3800mah 8.4v nimh
High Energy 4600 mah 8.4v nimh
Steel transmission output upgrade.
2 ounce weights back
1 ounce front/spare
Spike's towropes, bungee cords.
stock scx10 shocks
*oldedit*
Mods.
-Home made LED kit with resisters, and blue ground effects
-moved esc/receiver to back of chassis.
-Mounted battery on high upwards angle to fit inside dashboard of interior.
-Drilled holes in front bumper to extend farther out.
-Drilled holes in body mounts to raise front end up 2mm
-Using aluminum plate with velcro to mount body on chassis. Using velcro so the body slides on impact, or falls off... thanks to RCC for most of the upgrades i've done so far.
-Using spare parts from kit, I drilled holes in chassis and made mount farther back to sit perfectly with aluminum plate and velcro. (see pictures on 2nd page for better understanding)
-cut SUV body mounts to sit inside back seats to prevent body from sliding back and forth and the spur gear grinding the front seat.
-added 16mm aluminum plates to lower front shocks, and removed 3/4 of all bumpstops. Also did this upgrade because steering link was hitting chassis. and servo horn was hitting mount, which i removed.
-added 3 connectors, 1 for rear and front lights of body for removal of body. another for reverse lights which wire directly to the ESC. and the last is for the hardtop body break light
and much much much more.
Building Chassis, building kit.
Getting everything mounted.
I seen a thread with velcro, I copied that idea. mounted my body (Thanks to whom I seen this idea.)
Made a rear plate for the parralel batteries, and distributing weight.
Cleaned up wires
Body is mounted, Removed side step to fit rock sliders
Better pics in sun with rear tire mounted, and rear brake light mounted in body.
Here I'm mounting wires for LEDs, mounted rear brake lights, fog lights
Light switch on the right, and connector for lights (computer fans connection)
Got lights working!
Still got to:
-buy and install 6mm spacers to make up the 13" wheel base required for jeep body (ordered)
-install RC4WD 35T motor (shipped and on its way)
-paint body red (keeping hardtop/flairs black)
-build jerry can holder and mount out of aluminum
-paint interior
-buy new servo gears or new servo.
-4 link the rear. purchase links and truss (half decided whether i want to make my own links or buy the upper arms)
-purchase 5000mah Sub C or C batteries to make own or buy good mah battery
Thats all for now guys, any input is appreciated, any opinions too, what you guys think??? Budget build, this cost only 308 kit with tax. electronics $30 and batteries were for my old New Bright Jeep they were only $10 each, so $30 for a grand total of $360. 7.5 hours to build chassis and mount everything including Jeep Body. 3 hours to install and wire lights. and 1 second of rain to ruin my fun
Last edited: