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Silent outrunner and ESC for less then $60

Voodoobrew said:
Also try using the capacitor, the iflights don't come with as many capacitors on board as the wraiths.

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Click to expand...
That's right, I'm using 1.74 and it turns out that a capacitor is needed to solve the problem thanks to the creator of this firmware

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help me
d02d314eb323a8fb8ffc1634b7594a71.jpg


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Voodoobrew said:
I think it is pb4 bootloader, so start with that and just try different targets till it works, I can't tell which pads are swd or swc. so you need to trace them with an continuity tester / multimeter.

Click to expand...

hello friend I got to flash the Flycolor 50A, if they were those connection pins. The only thing that did not work well at all, in fact the esc burned, it only lasted a few minutes, when I gave it a punch. I think it was from using another esc's firmware. Can you tell me about a firmware that works well with this esc?
greetings thanks.
 
I don't know which firmware target would work best sorry.

Did it run rough or change directions at Partial throttle?

Did you run it with the original firmware at all. The quality control on these cheap quadcopter esc's is not the greatest.

I can't stress enough how important it is to watch the temperature on the esc. Especially when crawling slow.

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Voodoobrew said:
I don't know which firmware target would work best sorry.

Did it run rough or change directions at Partial throttle?

Did you run it with the original firmware at all. The quality control on these cheap quadcopter esc's is not the greatest.

I can't stress enough how important it is to watch the temperature on the esc. Especially when crawling slow.

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Click to expand...

I got the original firmware. and if I change direction when I accelerate partial. there was when it burned.
 
I don't have answers.
If you were pushing it hard it could just be too many amps.

I imagine driving forward and suddenly switching to reverse makes a power spike.

Try the am32 slack chat. The people there know much more then I do.

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In our german group lots of people tried first the wraith32 and changed afterwards to the Iflight55A....one guy burned 5 of those and is now partially happy with an Iflight.
Mine is still hung up in customs so I cant say anything about the issue.:oops:
 
The new Iflight ESC's have a different MCU, So you need to check that is not G071 before you erase it. Possibly you can load am32 on it but it uses a different bootloader and firmware.
 
Voodoobrew said:
The new Iflight ESC's have a different MCU, So you need to check that is not G071 before you erase it. Possibly you can load am32 on it but it uses a different bootloader and firmware.
Click to expand...
this is mcu
I still don't understand how to flash this mcu
75a7338409069b7aea3f050ac15e99c7.jpg


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Updated the tutorial to show that using the power from the ST-link is no longer recommended.
Just Solder all your wires to the ESC like normal.
And connect the SWC, SWD and ground to the ST-link.
This prevents you from burning up the ST-link if you try to plug it in with power at the same time as the battery.
Having ST-link power and battery pawer at the same time instantly Kills the ST-Link.

I also removed the breadboard. Using small 26g silicone covered wire works better.
The flexible wire and heat tolerating silicone wire is easier to solder up and is less likely to damage the SWD and SWC pads.

If I left any references to breadboards or using the 3.3 or 5v out on the ST-link then please let me know so I can fix them.
It will probably take awhile before I can update the video the reflect this change.
 
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Voodoobrew said:
yea the led does that every time, its normal. I think its hooked up to a debug pin or something. Because its not programed to light up, at least not on purpose. Try powering on the radio after you plug the battery in. There is some kind of intermittent arming issue in some of the builds. But if you hear the start chime the next step is arming. Some times its just trim, some times its turn on the transmitter after the car, I never have arming issues with my Arduino PWM servo tester. but i do with my Spektrum tx/rx, most of the quad copter people never have the issue. The full flashes are the best bet, because they have the EEPROM populated. if you load the bootloader separate from the firmware then you need to load or save EEPROM defaults in the configurator through a flight controller. I dont have much time to respond here because I'm in the last week of may BSN program and the stress is hitting me pretty hard.

The best place to get help is in the AM32 slack chat https://am32-invite.herokuapp.com/

I have no idea id the V2 is compatible with this firmware or not, I dont have one. I mean I sure it could be if it has a STM32F051 processor, but I dont know the Pinout.
Click to expand...

Do you happen to know what it is with the Spektrum setups that makes them grumpy. With the DSM2 sr3100 RX i cant get an arm without adjusting the trim pretty far. Flashed probably 2 dozen or so now all being used fine across many brand radios even other Spektrums. Something with the 3100 specifically for me causes issues.
 
I kinda know, and it's complicated.
Newer versions of the Firmware don't have the arming issue at all.
If you have trouble arming on 1.74 it's probably your trim settings.
 
Sorry for asking a noob question, I've been reading through this thread and trying to discern what esc I can use that is also available and in stock in the UK. The only one I think I can get is the IFlight SucceX 50A but from what I can tell there can be problems using this esc?

Also, I see a gentleman from Spain used an ESC without changing to the AM32 firmware and just changing the settings in BLheli. Is it possible to do this with the IFlight ESC?
 
Dave_Pinnock said:
Sorry for asking a noob question, I've been reading through this thread and trying to discern what esc I can use that is also available and in stock in the UK. The only one I think I can get is the IFlight SucceX 50A but from what I can tell there can be problems using this esc?

Also, I see a gentleman from Spain used an ESC without changing to the AM32 firmware and just changing the settings in BLheli. Is it possible to do this with the IFlight ESC?
Click to expand...

Here is a target list of compatible escs to start investigating. https://github.com/AlkaMotors/AM32-MultiRotor-ESC-firmware/wiki/List-of-Supported-Hardware

I have flashed several wraith32 esc's and I have nuked a couple by over motoring them. Currently Im working through trying out an iflight 80a esc with a Holmes 2500kv 10pole stubby (the same motor that incinerated the last wraith32)

The github is super informative and the slack community is oh so helpful in troubleshooting or in general better understanding what your tinkering with.
 
gvngoheavy said:
Here is a target list of compatible escs to start investigating. https://github.com/AlkaMotors/AM32-MultiRotor-ESC-firmware/wiki/List-of-Supported-Hardware

I have flashed several wraith32 esc's and I have nuked a couple by over motoring them. Currently Im working through trying out an iflight 80a esc with a Holmes 2500kv 10pole stubby (the same motor that incinerated the last wraith32)

The github is super informative and the slack community is oh so helpful in troubleshooting or in general better understanding what your tinkering with.
Click to expand...

Yeah I've checked the list and the IFlight Succexx ESC is on it however I have seen a few people in this thread having issues with it
 
Yes if you have a way to conect it to your pc to adjust the settings you can run it with blheli.

The startup is not as low with blheli as with am32.

Also check out the APD quad esc's they look thicker and would probably handle the heat better. Especially that 120a one it has giant mosfets. But you can't currently lod am32 on them.

This is a $12 esc running blheli32 firmware, all blheli esc's can do this.
https://youtu.be/zLdP6-4fasw

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Voodoobrew said:
https://youtu.be/zLdP6-4fasw

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Click to expand...
They can do much better than this ;-)
Set up the blheli32 to rampup power 130,low rpm PP off, sine modulation on, motor timing 22degrees and pmw on auto and you will see how slow and silent that thing will go ! It depends on the motor though....I wouldnt recommend a kv higher than 2500 on 3s lipo. And you have to put some capacitators on the main power connection. In the UK you can easily get a flycolor x 50amp or a turnigy multistar 51A. "thumbsup"
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-multistar-32bit-51a-race-spec-esc-2-6s-opto.html

Good set up read ---------> https://oscarliang.com/blheli-32-esc-fc-passthrough/
 
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