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Silent outrunner and ESC for less then $60

The iflight is getting hot? Personally I would use a smaller pinion. That way you not in sine start as much. But if the iflight esc is getting hot at low rpm the the only way to reduce the heat is to reduce the sine power in the code. This will make the motor slip more. The esc can run up to 95c no problem. You feel it as hot at around 70c

Where did you read the limit is 1400kv?

Where did you get the firmware?
I did make one for the scx24 that was not v1.74 with the sine power turned way up. If you have that firmware then that is the problem. Try the 1.74 firmware.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Voodoobrew said:
The iflight is getting hot? Personally I would use a smaller pinion. That way you not in sine start as much. But if the iflight esc is getting hot at low rpm the the only way to reduce the heat is to reduce the sine power in the code. This will make the motor slip more. The esc can run up to 95c no problem. You feel it as hot at around 70c

Where did you read the limit is 1400kv?

Where did you get the firmware?
I did make one for the scx24 that was not v1.74 with the sine power turned way up. If you have that firmware then that is the problem. Try the 1.74 firmware.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I think I read the kv limit on another thread started by Alka, but I might have misunderstood what was written, so there is no motor kv limitation for this firmware?

The reason for 17t pinion is considering the gear reduction provided by the AR45, I will try a smaller pinion then

I got the 1.74 firmware from here https://github.com/AlkaMotors/AM32-MultiRotor-ESC-firmware/releases/

Another thing, what is the difference between the file in your google drive 1.74 Dixie Partial folder, IFLIGHT_1.74-Dixie_PARTIAL.bin IFLIGHT_1.74.bin and IFLIGHT_1.74.hex, and which one should I flash with the config tool.

Sorry for the newb questions.
 
A heat sink and a capacitator will help further to reduce the heat "thumbsup"
4h7ljkop.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Yudi13 said:
Another thing, what is the difference between the file in your google drive 1.74 Dixie Partial folder, IFLIGHT_1.74-Dixie_PARTIAL.bin IFLIGHT_1.74.bin and IFLIGHT_1.74.hex, and which one should I flash with the config tool.



Sorry for the newb questions.
Click to expand...

If the heat all happens below the speed jump while you are still in sine start. It probably isn't the gearing. In sine start the power used is pretty static. It's just that losing gearing to get out of the hot throttle range will help. Because outside you would usually drive faster which will help.

If you got your bin file from github then the sine power is not maxed out for an scx24.

I would imagine all 3 of those 1.74 bins are the same in my github. The only change I made from github was the dixie startup tone.

I can make some bins with reduced sine power. We had to reduce the power on all the wraith esc's to lower the Temps.

It's not unheard of for esc manufactures to make hardware changes, but my 55a iflight. Didn't run that hot.

Also there is the possibility of maybe a hardware issue. Quality control on some quadcopter esc's is terrible.

Are all the mosfets heating up the same.






Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
 
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Yes, it might be the case of running it to slow, and btw my rig is not scx24, it's GSpeed v3 chassis with 3 gears gearbox and AR45 axles and I ran it on 3s. I think the heat is even on all the mosfet. It might also be caused by conformal coatings and heat shrink tubing over it that blocked the heat dissipation. I'm considering the idea of removing the heat shrink tubing, or cut it partially and remove/scrape the conformal coat from the top of mosfets. If the heat issue doesn't cure then I might consider the heatsink option.

Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk
 
themountain said:
A heat sink and a capacitator will help further to reduce the heat "thumbsup"

4h7ljkop.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
Click to expand...
I'm considering the heatsink idea, the problem is this esc is so tiny (11mm x 35mm or 7/16" x 1 3/8") and the mosfet area is just about 11mm x 20mm. About the capacitor, do you think it will help on the heat issue? I do get a large capacitor along with the esc (35v 220uf) but the seller page (aliexpress) mentioned that it only required on 5s application.

Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk
 
Yudi13 said:
I'm considering the heatsink idea, the problem is this esc is so tiny (11mm x 35mm or 7/16" x 1 3/8") and the mosfet area is just about 11mm x 20mm. About the capacitor, do you think it will help on the heat issue? I do get a large capacitor along with the esc (35v 220uf) but the seller page (aliexpress) mentioned that it only required on 5s application.

Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

This firmware should drop the heat considerably but the motor will slip more, The changes only affect the Sinusoidal start for super slow crawling, at higer speeds it will do nothing. basicaly I turned the sine wave power from 66% to 50%
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bYNCD4VYOo095QlFLj7ce1UPTK1YiwRS/view?usp=sharing

I am pretty sure I didn't use the capacitor and didn't have heat issues. But I mostly used it for a smaller motor. The I flight 55A layout is not especially great for power routing and this adds to the heat issues.
 
Last edited:
Voodoobrew said:
This firmware should drop the heat considerably but the motor will slip more, The changes only affect the Sinusoidal start for super slow crawling, at higer speeds it will do nothing. basicaly I turned the sine wave power from 66% to 50%
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bYNCD4VYOo095QlFLj7ce1UPTK1YiwRS/view?usp=sharing

I am pretty sure I didn't use the capacitor and didn't have heat issues. But I mostly used it for a smaller motor. The I flight 55A layout is not especially great for power routing and this adds to the heat issues.
Click to expand...

Right on, download and flash it to my esc, and yes it's cooler now. Still warm to the touch but I think that can be further addressed with the removal of heat shrink and conformal coating on top of the mosfets. The transition between the sinusoidal and the normal run is still not smooth (the motor act like cogging) if you intentionally do the transition very slow, but I don't think it would matter on normal usage as normally it would be run at the higher speed. This esc will eventually be replaced by HH Crawlmaster Mini which was still on the way (since purchased in June 12 based on the USPS tracking still sit somewhere in the US now).

Thank you for your help, and I do love the dixie horn starting sound. Keep up the good work.
 
Upadate, cut open the heat shrink, remove the conformal coat from top of mosfet, and while at it put 2 very small heatsink. Haven't test it yet, got to be back for the online meeting.
7799402ac8f5521f3cdf55fbdc28f8a7.jpg
54d611f4d61d81584472492de31d9127.jpg


Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk
 
Voodoobrew said:
Unfortunately I don't know how to smooth out the transition.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
You could try to cheat on the esc by telling it a different Kv rate than the motor has....that could smooth out the change of the sinus signal a bit or move it to an area where its not so noticable....maybe.
And about the capacitator a quote from a different Forum Rockcrawler.de
"TINKER"
Next topic: capacitors. As already explained in another thread: it has to be here! The small regulator shoots nibbles into the motor with up to 48kHz current, but to put it simply, even a Lipo battery is too "sluggish". This is where the capacitor helps. It also helps when the engine turns on its own and thus acts as a generator because the load is going downhill, for example. The motor then generates voltage which can blow the controller backwards if the capacitor does not voluntarily accept .
 
Last edited:
themountain said:
You could try to cheat on the esc by telling it a different Kv rate than the motor has....that could smooth out the change of the sinus signal a bit or move it to an area where its not so noticable....maybe.
And about the capacitator a quote from a different Forum Rockcrawler.de
"TINKER"
Next topic: capacitors. As already explained in another thread: it has to be here! The small regulator shoots nibbles into the motor with up to 48kHz current, but to put it simply, even a Lipo battery is too "sluggish". This is where the capacitor helps. It also helps when the engine turns on its own and thus acts as a generator because the load is going downhill, for example. The motor then generates voltage which can blow the controller backwards if the capacitor does not voluntarily accept .
Click to expand...
Yes. There are capacitors built into the esc's. Usualy they are all lined up in a row.
Maybe the bigger one will help though. I don't know for certain.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
 
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