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Scx10ii with Land Rover D90 body

Dbx

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Mar 25, 2016
Messages
317
Location
Midlands
My scx10ii just turned up today 8)
Being British, a Jeep Cherokee is not something i'm really familiar with. I have a number of plans for this chassis, but i'm probably going to start out with a D90 Land Rover body.
I've searched for threads on who has fitted a D90 the mkii, but can't find any - is there a build thread for this i'm missing? It's such a standard build on the mki, i'd guess it's a very similar affair.

Looking on ebay, the rc4wd D90 body is £110.... whilst it appears i can buy the exact same thing from china for £35. Is this the great deal it appears?
 
There is a new D90 body from Team Raffee available which is a bit wider and has a better wheel coverage.

https://www.asiatees.com/display?Mi...rades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=133668

https://www.asiatees.com/display?Mi...rades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=133669

It's a bit more expensive but much more detailed than the old body.


Good luck with your build! "thumbsup"

Thats looks way nicer. Gotta be worth the extra money. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

Edit.... i just got the postage price: £41.50 - ouch. Thats a total of over £120 before 20% VAT and import charges. Its gonna be over £150 at my door. The £35 inc postage one is still looking good after all.
 
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There is a new D90 body from Team Raffee available which is a bit wider and has a better wheel coverage.

https://www.asiatees.com/display?Mi...rades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=133668

https://www.asiatees.com/display?Mi...rades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=133669

It's a bit more expensive but much more detailed than the old body.


Good luck with your build! "thumbsup"

Well... it is Chistmas. I just plumbed for the Asiatees pickup through amazon. Here's hoping it's one of the occasions i don't get hit for tax on import. :roll:
Can't wait to get this fitted up to my ready and waiting chassis!
 
I would think the wheelbase on that D90 is going to be a little short, the wheelbase on the 10.2 is 313mm.. Although I suppose with some mods it should work fine.
 
I would think the wheelbase on that D90 is going to be a little short, the wheelbase on the 10.2 is 313mm.. Although I suppose with some mods it should work fine.

The body is 275mm (10.83") whilst the scx10ii goes down to 11.1" as stock. Thats only 7mm (0.27") difference, which i"m sure i'll be able to acheive one way or another.
 
VbTeam Raffee Land Rover D90 - Awesome!

My Team Raffee D90 turned up today - fast shipping! Bought through amazon.

First impressions: Wow.
This kit surpassed my expectations.
Its a very detailed, comprehensive kit with loads of really nice attention to detail. All parts appear to be abs, which will be much stronger than the polystyrene rc4wd version. The structure is well considered, and almost over-engineered. They have not scrimped on material thickness either, with most parts being around 2.5mm thick - thats as thick abs as i'd use on some 1:1 motorcycle panels! Rubber seats are a nice touch. Comes with decent hardware inc tiny magnets for door and hood closures.
Sorry if the pictures are not sized well... ipad sucks at that.

There appears to be a fair amount of work to get this to fit the scx10ii chassis. I'll 3d print new rear shock mounts, chassis ends/fender mounts.
My plan is to start with building a Wolf 90. I may extend the body wheelbase at some point, and maybe later create a 3d printed Mkiii Landy conversion stepped back front grill and short hood. But thats all for later...
 

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Holy cow that looks super nice. Amazing detail. I was looking at the AsiaTees Cherokee hard body. This only makes me think more about clicking the buy now button. Keep the pics coming. This will be a great build.
 
I've bought the cheap one from China for £35, I'll let you know how I get on.

I'm planning on hacking it up a fair bit so couldn't justify spending a lot on it.
 
I wonder how this hardbody fits the SCX10.2

It looks like it will fit, but will take a bit of work.
Firstly the pick-up bed interferes with the rear shock hoops. I've designed some new hoops that should work better:

Whilst they are being printed i need make some shortened rear links (35mm shorter).
The battery looks like it may just sneak through the cab's transmission tunnel. It'll be a headache if it doesn't!
More photos to come.
 
Progress has been slow with life getting in the way.
New axles, knuckles and SSD 2 speed turned up this week which gave a bit of an enthusiasm injection. Home made links using 4mm stainless rod and rc4wd rod ends.
The SSD knuckle and Vanquish axle combo worked ok, but did need a bit of fettling to stop the king pin screws from binding the knuckles up.
The SSD 2 speed had a much bigger problem, not fitting together at all. I've been in touch with the supplier and hope i'll get a replacement.

I started cutting the body to fit the chassis. I've gone to a 'stage 1' point, getting the body to sit on the chassis rails front and back. This required a small cut around the spur gear case, a small trim near the transfer box, and cutting the battery tray down to fit the body's transmission tunnel.

I temporarily put some cheapo 1.9 wheels on that were kicking about. These have close to the outer diameter i want (95mm). I want 1.55 wheels to get the right scale look, most like the 16" wheels on a 1:1.
I think the body is sitting way too high on the wheels at this stage.
Another 10mm lower at least. This means some rather more drastic cutting. The motor and gearbox are gonna run right through the bottom of the interior.
The current wheel clearance is good, front and rear.
Once dropped 10mm lower, it will be a challenge to get good clearance, but a bit of careful positioning and a light trim will get it.
 

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Have you thought about just doing away with the shock hoops and getting a set of Dinky RC's Cantilever shocks? Basically makes the shocks flush to the frame at that point, may help with bringing the body down a bit as well. At that point I would probably go grab some rare earth magnets for the body and the chassis and have it sit on the chassis that way. Anyway just a couple of ideas that might help.

SCX10 Cantilever Kit – DinkyRC.com
 
I hadn't seriously thought about cantilever. I have all the cantilever parts i took off my twin hammers that i could use. Kinda begs the question why cantilever was bad on the TH, but i'd want it here. The stock shocks will certainly work, so i'll stick with them for now. I was really impressed with the performance of a totally stock chassis, so am not in a rush to start from scratch.
The pick-up bed of the raffee body is it's worse point, and something i want to fix eventually. Maybe look at cantilever then.
 
Dbx,

It looks great so far! I am going to get an raffee body for sure now. Do you have any tips for painting it? I have started doing a little research and it seems like people recommend filling in the cracks/holes with auto bondo and then hit it with primer, base coat, final coat, then clear coat? Sounds about right?

Also have you considered "incognito body mounts"? I know you are in the UK but maybe you can find someone to print them for you? Let me dig up a link

Here is a link to what I am talking about. Let me find a link for the STL incognito mount

-M
 
I've managed to get quite a bit done over the last couple weeks. The main changes have been:
Getting the body sat low enough to look about right (without completely sacrificing suspension travel)
Chopping back the interior far enough to clear the gearbox and motor.... and then chopping it more to clear some of the electrical gubbins.
Chopping back the stock sills to sit under the body (mainly removing the receiver box).

It's a megga tight fit to get all the electrical wires tucked in. The seats will cover most of it. But what to hold those wires in place? Hot glue?!
You'll see i have some very temporary rear hoops in there whilst i wait for my printed ones.

The aluminium bumpers are also the body mounts. These will be replaced by Scorched Parts 3d printed parts in due course.
 

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