Got my LURC wheels yesterday , went with the m2×7 and m2×1scale bolts for the rings. Ordered the scale bolt tool from LURC but can't seem to get the 6 main bolts tight enough before the bolt head rounds over. I used 3 m2×7 hex screws in every other hole to get the beads set than swapped them over the the scale bolts. Even the m2×1 would round over before seated all the way. Any suggestions ?
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Scale hardware tool
- Thread starter tjcj
- Start date
That's the reason I quit using the scale bolts, some wouldn't even torque to 6-8 oz-in before slipping. I tried 2mm drivers from Wiha, Locked-Up, RC4WD and Moody with scale bolts from SSD, Locked-Up and RC4WD. All of which, bolts and drivers, were brand new. I even modified an extra 2mm Moody driver tip to fit a little tighter, none worked as well as I would have liked and some of the bolts never fully seated.
You can remove bolts and tap each hole with an actual M2 tap and it will help, some of the holes just aren't threaded cleanly of fully and the torque needed to get them cut using the scale bolts is more than a lot of the bolts and tools can handle.
I swapped to regular stainless socket head allen/hex screws and can get over 40 oz-in of torque from them. It's overkill with these tiny screws, but there was no slipping/stripping up to 40+ oz-in and all the holes were final threaded using the socket screws. I personally think the socket screws look cleaner. The scale judges may not like them though, if that's a concern.
You can remove bolts and tap each hole with an actual M2 tap and it will help, some of the holes just aren't threaded cleanly of fully and the torque needed to get them cut using the scale bolts is more than a lot of the bolts and tools can handle.
I swapped to regular stainless socket head allen/hex screws and can get over 40 oz-in of torque from them. It's overkill with these tiny screws, but there was no slipping/stripping up to 40+ oz-in and all the holes were final threaded using the socket screws. I personally think the socket screws look cleaner. The scale judges may not like them though, if that's a concern.
Eric0424.
I actually ran a m2x7 hex head screw in every hole prior to even attempting the scale hardware since I don't have a m2 tap. It helped .
Kaler.
I will have to try that next time. Today I used a couple small c-clamps to clamp the front ring down and was able to get the ring tight to the wheel. Thanks
I actually ran a m2x7 hex head screw in every hole prior to even attempting the scale hardware since I don't have a m2 tap. It helped .
Kaler.
I will have to try that next time. Today I used a couple small c-clamps to clamp the front ring down and was able to get the ring tight to the wheel. Thanks
Last edited:
