ghostdogfpv
Newbie
thx man but i did already order the w1 chassis kit and two front axle to make it 4ws i should get it monday hopefully ended up paying 960 usd approx. with the s20 motor esc 80a and two servos
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Rhino Yue One V2 - "Diamondback"
- Thread starter Dannko
- Start date
really like this Rhino, who are you buying it from Ebay, RCtimer? are they being delivered in a timely manner.
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
Went to order it and I see a $26+ service charge plus $72.+ shipping. have tariffs kicked in yet?
Dannko
Newbie
I bought some parts from RCTimer directly, other parts from Aliexpress. From my experience, they ship very quickly.
thanks Dannko!
Dannko
Newbie
Alright, so here's the rundown on the latest, and probably final, round of tweaks to my rig. Honestly, I'm pretty stoked with how it's running now! 
1. Servo Shuffle
First off, my rear DMOND servo was just not cutting it. It wasn't strong enough, and I really needed one I could program to get the angle just right. So, I snagged the AGFRC servo from the front, popped it in the back, and then used the USB stick to program it for maximum angle. Rear steering became way more controllable. Up front, I tossed in the ShiftRC X2.0 direct power servo. This thing is a beast – tons of torque, super precise, and fast. I'm really digging it!
2. Weight Distribution & Motor Swap
I added some more tungsten knuckle weights to the front and took out some of the brass weights from the front wheels. This helped reduce the rotating mass while still adding a little more front weight overall, and keeping it nice and low.
Then came the motor switch. My Revolver Snubnose 1400KV was just a hair too long, and it kept hitting rocks sometimes, which drove me nuts. Swapping it for the Revolver Team Spec SS 1900KV was a game-changer – that tiny ~2.5mm difference in length completely solved the rock-hitting problem. Plus, this new motor is lighter and faster, which really helps when I need that burst of wheel speed to get over an obstacle. The color also matches my gearbox perfectly!
3. Gearing Up and Fixing Things
So with the new motor having a bit less torque, I had to play with the gear ratios. I dropped the pinion to a 13-tooth and then went with an 8/33 pinion/ring in the back and an 8/27 up front. The goal was to keep the overdrive pretty consistent. Once that was done, the motor stopped any kind of stuttering, and slow-speed crawling became even silkier than before. It also helped dial back the torque twist even further. I did lose some of the top-end speed that the new motor offered, but even with this gearing, it's still quicker than the old motor was.
While I was at it, I tackled a nagging issue with the rear link riser. The threads that held its screws had completely given up, so it wouldn't stay put. My fix was to use helicoils to repair the threads. Now, that riser is absolutely solid – it feels like it's welded right to the axle!
4. Skid Plate Care
Finally, I took a Dremel to the bottom of the skid plate. I sanded it down to make it super slippery and get rid of any spots that could catch on rocks. Now it just glides right over everything.
1. Servo Shuffle
First off, my rear DMOND servo was just not cutting it. It wasn't strong enough, and I really needed one I could program to get the angle just right. So, I snagged the AGFRC servo from the front, popped it in the back, and then used the USB stick to program it for maximum angle. Rear steering became way more controllable. Up front, I tossed in the ShiftRC X2.0 direct power servo. This thing is a beast – tons of torque, super precise, and fast. I'm really digging it!
2. Weight Distribution & Motor Swap
I added some more tungsten knuckle weights to the front and took out some of the brass weights from the front wheels. This helped reduce the rotating mass while still adding a little more front weight overall, and keeping it nice and low.
Then came the motor switch. My Revolver Snubnose 1400KV was just a hair too long, and it kept hitting rocks sometimes, which drove me nuts. Swapping it for the Revolver Team Spec SS 1900KV was a game-changer – that tiny ~2.5mm difference in length completely solved the rock-hitting problem. Plus, this new motor is lighter and faster, which really helps when I need that burst of wheel speed to get over an obstacle. The color also matches my gearbox perfectly!
3. Gearing Up and Fixing Things
So with the new motor having a bit less torque, I had to play with the gear ratios. I dropped the pinion to a 13-tooth and then went with an 8/33 pinion/ring in the back and an 8/27 up front. The goal was to keep the overdrive pretty consistent. Once that was done, the motor stopped any kind of stuttering, and slow-speed crawling became even silkier than before. It also helped dial back the torque twist even further. I did lose some of the top-end speed that the new motor offered, but even with this gearing, it's still quicker than the old motor was.
While I was at it, I tackled a nagging issue with the rear link riser. The threads that held its screws had completely given up, so it wouldn't stay put. My fix was to use helicoils to repair the threads. Now, that riser is absolutely solid – it feels like it's welded right to the axle!
4. Skid Plate Care
Finally, I took a Dremel to the bottom of the skid plate. I sanded it down to make it super slippery and get rid of any spots that could catch on rocks. Now it just glides right over everything.
Last edited:
