Rhino Yue One V2 - "Diamondback"

[Dannko]

Greetings,

I couldn't find a dedicated sub-forum for this kit, so I'm posting here since the only requirement is a width under 16". This build is about 10.5" wide.

So I recently built a new shaft-driven competition rig and wanted to share my experience. RhinoRC was a "one-stop shop," saving me the trouble of sourcing parts from different places. I chose the Rhino Yue One V2 kit for its low center of gravity and overall great potential. They also offer some excellent optional upgrades.

You can watch my first run with it here:

Overall, I'm very impressed with it

I also have a Bully2 RTR, which I've upgraded to some extent. You can see it in my other YouTube videos. The Bully2 crawled the same rocks with the same tires, foams, and wheels, but I felt that the Rhino managed to handle some tougher angles and inclines that the Bully2 struggled with or couldn't manage.

I think the Rhino would be absolutely perfect platform if it had a front dig option like the Bully2, though it would need to be mechanical due to the shaft. I'd love to hear your thoughts on it.

Here are the build specs:

**Chassis**
- Rhino Yue One V2 kit
- Rhino rear ultra link riser
- Tungsten weights on the front (about 62g total)
- Yeah Racing Desert Lizards 90mm, default soft springs setup front & rear (70% sprung, 30% droop)
- 30w shock oil
- 25% underdrive in rear axle
- 7075 aluminum wheel hex hubs (15mm)

**Electronics**
- Holmes Hobbies Revolver V3 Snubnose 1400kv
- Holmes Hobbies CrawlMaster Mini V3
- AGFRC A75BUMW 62kg HV servo
- FlySky radio system
- CNHL 4s Lipo 850mah

Total weight with battery: 2kg

 

[Robbob]

Whats your wheelbase?

 

[Dannko]

Wheelbase is 13.1". I measured again the width with the Ibex tires and it is 11.5" and not 10.5" like I wrote earlier.
So both wheelbase and width are slightly larger than my Bully2, about 0.5-1" differences.

 

[Robbob]

.5'' is a big difference when youre trying to compare to different trucks.

 

[Dannko]

In terms of percentage, the Rhino wheelbase is only longer by 4%, so it seems like a small number. But maybe you are right, they are totally different trucks, not sure if it's actually correct to compare them.

 

[Dannko]

New video is out:

 

[Dannko]

I decided to replace the short drag link with a longer one reaching the far knuckle. To make room, I flipped the battery tray, which moved the battery slightly backward, protecting it from frequent impacts.

Additionally, I used a dremel to modify the link end to avoid interference and ensure maximum steering due to the front link riser.

I kept the servo horn unchanged with its 2cm hole-to-hole distance. The drag link I used is a bent link from the Axial SCX10 III.

This setup essentially increases the torque applied by the servo to the knuckles.

 

[Dannko]

Took both Rhino and Bully out to the rocks. Their performance turned out to be quite similar.

 

[Dannko]

I did some more upgrades to this beast, now it's even more capable than before.

Latest upgrades include:
- Increased wheelbase to ~370mm
- Increased overdrive to ~40% (via new gearbox)
- Switched tires to Rhino Moza 2.2
- Switched inserts to 3BRC Dual Stage Anti Foams
- Added rear steering, so now it's 4WS
- Added lights system - rock lights and light bar, now it can run in the dark too
- Added a mini suck down winch
- Added more brass and high mass beadlocks on front
- Switched to light comp wheels on rear to compensate added weight on rear axle

Run video with these upgrades (winch and lights not used):

 

[bman81ss]

How did you do rear steer? Did you replace the rear axle with a front axle? Any driveshaft changes needed?

 

[Dannko]

How did you do rear steer? Did you replace the rear axle with a front axle? Any driveshaft changes needed?

I replaced the rear Rhino axle with a front axle, but I didn’t add any extra weight (To keep it as light as possible). I opted for the Fimonda Capra axle for the swap.
To make it work, I had to cut one of the link mounts to fit the servo mount, as it wouldn’t fit otherwise.

As for the driveshafts, I only replaced them because I changed the wheelbase. If you’re not adjusting the wheelbase, there’s no need to change the original driveshafts.
However, you might want to consider upgrading to the Rhino Carrier V2. It allows you to reposition the driveshafts to either side as needed, I moved mine to the right side due to the gearbox output and rear axle pumpkin offset.

 

[Dannko]

Made some more upgrades and adjustments to this rig:

- Reduced overdrive to ~34% (needed a bit more spin in the rear)
- Swapped to Dlux Dravtech shocks (the Desert Lizards started leaking badly... )
- Front shocks: medium length, soft springs, 30wt oil
- Rear shocks: long length, medium springs, 40wt oil
- Switched to HB Rovers (with stock foam) on wide wheels—lowering the CG compared to the Moza tires
- Removed the micro winch after the small gear shaft broke; might install a better one, but honestly, not sure if it's needed now
- Brought the rear lower links closer together at the chassis
- Redesigned the rear upper linkage with custom mounts, connecting them lower on the chassis

I was dealing with some torque twist earlier. I'm not entirely sure if it was better with the previous setup, but from what I’ve observed now, these changes—especially the updated linkage geometry—have made a noticeable improvement in reducing torque twist!

Here is a run video with these changes:

 

[Dannko]

This rig can handle inclines of around 70°, so I ultimately scrapped the idea of a suck-down winch, especially since the only viable mounting spot is high on the back, which isn’t ideal for weight distribution and doesn’t seem worth the effort.

However, I still wanted a way to manage potential front shock unload on steeper inclines. So I ran a steel rope with a hook from the link riser to a rod end on the chassis. This setup limits front shock travel to about ~40%, maintaining some articulation while keeping the LCG.

Connecting or disconnecting takes just 3 seconds, and while I may rarely need to use it, it's nice to have the option available

 

[ghostdogfpv]

read the whole thing and wow just speachless, checking my options i think i will go for the w1 rtr and as soon as i have more money i will put another steering axle in the back, can i just ask you if the original rod ends are 3mm or 4? i admit i am very ignorant in this field as is not a drone which i am used to XD

 

[Dannko]

read the whole thing and wow just speachless, checking my options i think i will go for the w1 rtr and as soon as i have more money i will put another steering axle in the back, can i just ask you if the original rod ends are 3mm or 4? i admit i am very ignorant in this field as is not a drone which i am used to XD

Glad you liked it
Rod ends are 4mm.
The W1 looks very cool, go for it

 

[ghostdogfpv]

still cant decide if i can/want spend more and buy all the parts separatly so i can build it directly 4ws or buy the rtr version and upgrade later

 

[Dannko]

I made another small but important upgrade by swapping the universal steering shafts for 3-section CVDs. The goal wasn’t to boost the steering angle, but to eliminate the inconsistent wheel spin at higher turning angles, and these CVDs have proven to be highly effective in that regard.
I already had these CVDs on the rear axle, so now they’re on the front as well. While universal shafts tend to be more reliable than CVDs, only time will tell if they’re durable enough for this rig