Redcat steering thread

[Overkel]

I haven't put the 12mm on in awhile, but the 15 mm I am currently using seems like more than I really need.
11" (which is what I have with 15mm's on) for overall width is kind of on the ragged edge. For a couple bucks
they will tide some one by for awhile, at the very least. Especially if some one is going 4 wheel steering they
should see a pretty nice improvement with just the 12mm's to start with.

If I can find my old Traxxas 12mm's I'll put them on again and double check.

 

[pbfrk4life]

Wow what a great thread. I was going to search for steering mods and you have answered every question. Great job! I love to see people thinking outside of the box.

 

[Overkel]

Aw thanks man. You are just the type of person I was thinking of when I made it. If you make any new discoveries while tweaking your steering...feel free to bring them here. You never know who it might help.

 

[The Jackalope]

On that note;
I'm surprised I don't see any more redcat guys "clocking" their axles these days. The performance benefits are huge, and that's not even to mention how it helps for tire steering clearance. It's basically just adjusting your upper links so that the whole axle rocks back towards the chassis a bit. Why you ask? For starters, this rolls the motor (the heaviest part, especially us 540 guys) closer to the ground, lowering the overall CG. Next, the arc that the tires turn in now passes below the shocks, instead of straight into them, thus alleviating rubbing. Also, it moves your steering links up and out of the way of snagging rocks. Now comes the fun bit of the REAL why; first there is traction. When turning, the corner lugs on the tire tread dig in a little more
Then the centre of the tire. Next, you know how when you drive straight up to your living room wall? And you let the front tires lift you upright? Well say you were trying to "turn" while going up the wall. So you give it full throw of the steering one way, and crawl forward. The tires bank one way, but the truck still climbs "straight" up the wall. No steering whatsoever. Because what little contact patch of the tire is hitting the flat surface, doesn't begin to see a turning angle until the whole truck is upright, balancing on its hind end!

So with the clocked axle, the head-on part of your tires actually seem to "lean" one way or The other during full throw during steering. So it those tight turn around spots, you can start your turning much faster and more effectively.

I got the idea years ago from checking out the bergs and bully's, and wondered why they have the adjustable C knuckles to allow for different angles.

See the very last picture on the bottom of the page I just linked to, here: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redc...0-xt-unveiling-ongoing-build.html#post3044242

 

[Damion10]

I like the idea of having the axles clocked down, but my motors hang up on the edges of rocks etc. Right now I have them clocked to where the bottom of the motor is flush with the bottom of my links.

Ideally having a skid plate for the motors so it would slide over instead of hanging up would be ideal.

 

[Overkel]

Hmmm, I like this idea. It looks like the motor might rub once in awhile, but it doesn't seem that it would get "hung up" on anything.

At first I was thinking a simple piece of lexan would work for as a skid under the motor, but after looking at the pics I almost wonder if that would get hung up more often.

I am wondering if a slightly taller tire might go well with that set up.

 

[jamesthe1v]

so the idea is to roll axles forward at top in front and roll top rear axle to the rear correct? can we just lengthen the tops or need to split differnce with shorting lowers as well for some reason? also i have done the bta steering on this rig and about to do 540 mod ....any thoughts or warnings?

 

[The Jackalope]

Nope, ya got that backwards. Roll the top of both axles inwards towards the chassis. Leave your lower links right where they are. Just relocate the top links somewhere else lower and/or closer to the centre on the chassis, like the stock shock mounting holes. No need to shorten any bars, unless you want to.

 

[jamesthe1v]

cool thanks for the advice. cant go to far do to the behind the axle steering mod but enough it helps with minimal rubbage. pretty much realized not going to be able to do 540's on this rig with bta steering mod :-( i'll do 540 mod on another rs10xt i have and run this one on 2 and 3 s and compare and see where it all shakes out.

 

[Overkel]

I generally prefer a high steering link to BTA. BTA is better than stock by far, but a high steer link (preferably combined with high steer knuckles) in the front will hang up less than a BTA. Based on my experience.

The nice thing about BTA is that it's free. So I don't want to forget about that.

 

[Detroitjohn]

If I were advising a friend on how to get more steering on a Redcat type of budget I'd say this.

1) Get a $3 12 mm plastic Traxxas wheel widener.
2) Get the $35 Vanquish Axial Ax10 knuckle.
(I like the straightness and the holes for mounting weights later. There might be some of those Vanquish Bergs on close out for $21, but for $14 difference just do it right the first time.IMO)
3) Get the $12 Traxxas Slash stock universal joint/drive line.
4) Get 60 degrees of turning.

Instead of spending $50 for 60 degrees, you can always spend 3 - 4 times that and get another 10 degrees. I'm thinking that every degree beyond 60 will cost around $15 to $20 a degree (Based on what Cabron has said about the cost of the 70 degree set up) and 60 is really pretty darn good.

hey love the thread on steering thank you for all of your research!!! im trying to find the correct Traxxas Slash stock universal joint/drive line. do you have a part # or link to the correct one? everything else is not too hard to find, im only turning up with 15mm wheel spacers 12mm arent coming up thanks to the 12mm hex hub. a fresh link to that would be greatly appreciated. -John