toka100
Quarry Creeper
Question about the older posts. What front bumper was on there. Is that the dingo bumper?
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Powder4breakfast SCX10 II Thread
- Thread starter powder4breakfast
- Start date
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
Correct. Dingo bumper part # AX80039A
This bumper is a big improvement regarding approach angles compared to the stock bumper. It is cheap and available all over.
It sits much closer to the body than the stock bumper. If you trim the two side bars off, it sits even closer to the grill. I had a second one with the sides trimmed off; but, I elected to run the original untrimmed version since I had a light bar mounted.
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
As noted in an earlier post, I picked up a 2nd SCX10 II. I am making some changes to it; but, since both rigs started as RTR's, I'll just use this thread for updates on both.
It was used in almost new condition except for the Pro-line '85 Hilux body painted white. It wasn't really cut clean and the windows had been blacked out. I tried to clean it up and totally destroyed the cab.
wah wah wah...
So, when my wife left town for Mexico last week, I picked up a new Hilux cab and paired it with a Vaterra Ascender rear cage. Thanks to Bilinvic's 2nd SCX10 II as well as Triggerhappy for inspiration.
Not a lot done so far. I will be picking up the the stock SCX10 II Cherokee mirrors like Bilinvic did along with a few other scale pieces. I eventually plan on cutting and adding a 3d grill along with an interior. As for everything under the body, I plan on keeping pretty much stock as long as I can.
I painted the body with Tamaya PS2 (red) and the hood with PS5 (black). I then masked off the hood and painted the outside top with a matte spray to give it a flat look
I used black wash to accent the indentations and door/hood lines. It also gave the cab a lightly dirty look all around. It was not applied heavily
I taped the windows and brush painted the outside with a flat black to give the molding a realistic rubbery look. I thought it looked great ...until I touched the rear top corner with my finger. You can't fix it without stripping and starting over so I'll live with it. The window moldings were definitely the hardest part
I'm not going to bet the house on this working without a flaw; but, I snipped the top off the post mount to create a flat surface and glued on rare earth magnets. I glued metal washers to the underside of the hood. I will use the regular post and pins in the rear. you can lift the vehicle up and I am surprised at how strong the hold is. In theory, if the vehicle tumbles and pops the connection, the magnets should pull things back together as soon as the vehicle rights itself. The rear pins will do the job of keeping a fixed point
I really wanted to not have the holes through the hood. My biggest concern right now is whether the magnets will stayed glued to the posts.
Hood looks nice and clean
There is enough of these cabs with Ascender cages floating around that you've all seen it; but, I really like the look. It's like that cage was made for the Hilux cab. The fit is great.
It was used in almost new condition except for the Pro-line '85 Hilux body painted white. It wasn't really cut clean and the windows had been blacked out. I tried to clean it up and totally destroyed the cab.
wah wah wah...So, when my wife left town for Mexico last week, I picked up a new Hilux cab and paired it with a Vaterra Ascender rear cage. Thanks to Bilinvic's 2nd SCX10 II as well as Triggerhappy for inspiration.
Not a lot done so far. I will be picking up the the stock SCX10 II Cherokee mirrors like Bilinvic did along with a few other scale pieces. I eventually plan on cutting and adding a 3d grill along with an interior. As for everything under the body, I plan on keeping pretty much stock as long as I can.
I painted the body with Tamaya PS2 (red) and the hood with PS5 (black). I then masked off the hood and painted the outside top with a matte spray to give it a flat look
I used black wash to accent the indentations and door/hood lines. It also gave the cab a lightly dirty look all around. It was not applied heavily
I taped the windows and brush painted the outside with a flat black to give the molding a realistic rubbery look. I thought it looked great ...until I touched the rear top corner with my finger. You can't fix it without stripping and starting over so I'll live with it. The window moldings were definitely the hardest part
I'm not going to bet the house on this working without a flaw; but, I snipped the top off the post mount to create a flat surface and glued on rare earth magnets. I glued metal washers to the underside of the hood. I will use the regular post and pins in the rear. you can lift the vehicle up and I am surprised at how strong the hold is. In theory, if the vehicle tumbles and pops the connection, the magnets should pull things back together as soon as the vehicle rights itself. The rear pins will do the job of keeping a fixed point
I really wanted to not have the holes through the hood. My biggest concern right now is whether the magnets will stayed glued to the posts.
Hood looks nice and clean
There is enough of these cabs with Ascender cages floating around that you've all seen it; but, I really like the look. It's like that cage was made for the Hilux cab. The fit is great.
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
It's been a while since I updated this thread. I have added a few items that were never documented here including 3D printed inner wheel wells, Knight Customs tail light housings and lenses, a Pro-Line 5" curved light bar, a bit of sticker removal and addition of some flat black paint, and metal transmission gears after the stock plastic stripped. At this point, I am super happy with the truck and don't plan on putting any more money into this unless something breaks.
Purchased file off of Pinshape and had wheel wells printed locally
Only downside is these wells interfere with the Pro-Line PL-C interior which I had to move forward to make fit. This pushes the driver up farther than would be normal. If you're really keeping scale score, the driver seat and driver are now in the middle of the front window as apposed to being back by the B Pillar like would be normal... unless you're really really short. Kevin (my driver - Named because my wife is not a fan of my new-ish toy car hobby or the name Kevin. So why not combine them?) is not short.
Pro-Line 5" Curved light bar
Very pleased with finally finding a somewhat realistic light bar that fits without modification of light bar or JCR rack. All lights are run straight off of 3s.
Knight Customs tail light housing and lens
Painted with Tamiya clear red, clear orange and clear. I had great success painting the front marker lights with this paint. The material used for these lenses is obviously different than Axial's stock lens plastic and my results were not as stellar or realistic looking unfortunately.
As stated, I have been having a blast with this car and have no plans to do anything else to it. Unfortunately the body has been taking a beating as I have been pushing the limits more and more with this rig. I can obviously put a different body on; but, after spending $ on the bumpers, Knight Custom lights, rack, wheel wells, interior and other pieces that are married to the XJ... I kind of feel like this rig is what it is for a while. Thus my desire to start building my other 10 II which has begun. I will post more on that below.
Purchased file off of Pinshape and had wheel wells printed locally
Only downside is these wells interfere with the Pro-Line PL-C interior which I had to move forward to make fit. This pushes the driver up farther than would be normal. If you're really keeping scale score, the driver seat and driver are now in the middle of the front window as apposed to being back by the B Pillar like would be normal... unless you're really really short. Kevin (my driver - Named because my wife is not a fan of my new-ish toy car hobby or the name Kevin. So why not combine them?) is not short.
Pro-Line 5" Curved light bar
Very pleased with finally finding a somewhat realistic light bar that fits without modification of light bar or JCR rack. All lights are run straight off of 3s.
Knight Customs tail light housing and lens
Painted with Tamiya clear red, clear orange and clear. I had great success painting the front marker lights with this paint. The material used for these lenses is obviously different than Axial's stock lens plastic and my results were not as stellar or realistic looking unfortunately.
As stated, I have been having a blast with this car and have no plans to do anything else to it. Unfortunately the body has been taking a beating as I have been pushing the limits more and more with this rig. I can obviously put a different body on; but, after spending $ on the bumpers, Knight Custom lights, rack, wheel wells, interior and other pieces that are married to the XJ... I kind of feel like this rig is what it is for a while. Thus my desire to start building my other 10 II which has begun. I will post more on that below.
Last edited:
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
I took my Bomber to a Recon G6 event back in the Fall of 2016. That was the first group crawl event I had been to and is still one of the most fun outings I have had with a toy car. Utah has comps every single month put on by the 801 crew. I have been trying unsuccessfully to attend a local comp ever since the 2016 G6; but, I have had a scheduling conflict every month until just recently. I finally made it to my second group crawl event and first local comp just two months ago in November. I had so much fun that I immediately went home to convince a friend to buy a car and join me. My good buddy Dave obliged and ordered a '17 Wrangler SCX10 II. It arrived and he joined me at the December comp just a few days after unboxing it.
It turns out that comps are super fun. It also turns out that there is a lot more beef between some of the local comp goers than I had expected. Some non-sponsored people are bugged by those with sponsors, some people and teams don't like others and some people just have attitudes and egos . This is definitely not the majority; but, It does exist to a noticeable degree. Most truly are there to have a good time and get along great. One of my favorite takeaways from the Recon G6 was so many people from different aspects of life having fun and, in some cases, needing to work together to get past certain obstacles. It is for this reason that Dave and I decided to create a team of our own to embody the simple pleasures of being with friends and having fun. We aren't going to win the whole thing just yet; but, we're going to have fun. And though we may eventually not use our hands or feet to better play by the rules (HOGing), we also won't judge those who do in order to keep their sanity and reduce frustration. Team HOGing5000 is born!
HOGing is obvious. One of the cardinal rules of scale comps (written or not) is no touching... or no "Hand Of God". If you are not familiar with this term you can read this:
https://www.bigsquidrc.com/the-cub-report-05-28-2013-version-hand-of-god/
5000 is an inside joke that isn't really funny when explained. You just kind of had to be there. Years ago we played on a rec softball team. One season we were putting jerseys together and one friend decided he wanted his number to be whatever Kaleb's favorite number was. Kaleb was a little neighbor boy. I don't know how else to describe Kaleb other than he was truly one of a kind and responsible for more hilarious memories than any other child in the neighborhood that I have known since moving into this house a decade and a half ago. We called Kaleb and asked about his favorite number to which he instantly screamed back with crazy enthusiasm 5000!!! Therefore, Kevin's jersey number was 5000 that season. We still laugh about that.
First event as Team HOGing5000
Christmas spirit intact
A little traffic jam while waiting for others to get though a gate
Contrary to our HOGing5000 name, we opted to have Dave use a tow strap to pull me back to earth and spare the carnage of a roll over
Team HOGing5000 logo. Michelangelo's "Hand Of God" actually touching the acronym for words "Hand Of God" ...yeah? ...yeah? ...get it?
It turns out that comps are super fun. It also turns out that there is a lot more beef between some of the local comp goers than I had expected. Some non-sponsored people are bugged by those with sponsors, some people and teams don't like others and some people just have attitudes and egos . This is definitely not the majority; but, It does exist to a noticeable degree. Most truly are there to have a good time and get along great. One of my favorite takeaways from the Recon G6 was so many people from different aspects of life having fun and, in some cases, needing to work together to get past certain obstacles. It is for this reason that Dave and I decided to create a team of our own to embody the simple pleasures of being with friends and having fun. We aren't going to win the whole thing just yet; but, we're going to have fun. And though we may eventually not use our hands or feet to better play by the rules (HOGing), we also won't judge those who do in order to keep their sanity and reduce frustration. Team HOGing5000 is born!
HOGing is obvious. One of the cardinal rules of scale comps (written or not) is no touching... or no "Hand Of God". If you are not familiar with this term you can read this:
https://www.bigsquidrc.com/the-cub-report-05-28-2013-version-hand-of-god/
5000 is an inside joke that isn't really funny when explained. You just kind of had to be there. Years ago we played on a rec softball team. One season we were putting jerseys together and one friend decided he wanted his number to be whatever Kaleb's favorite number was. Kaleb was a little neighbor boy. I don't know how else to describe Kaleb other than he was truly one of a kind and responsible for more hilarious memories than any other child in the neighborhood that I have known since moving into this house a decade and a half ago. We called Kaleb and asked about his favorite number to which he instantly screamed back with crazy enthusiasm 5000!!! Therefore, Kevin's jersey number was 5000 that season. We still laugh about that.
First event as Team HOGing5000
Christmas spirit intact
A little traffic jam while waiting for others to get though a gate
Contrary to our HOGing5000 name, we opted to have Dave use a tow strap to pull me back to earth and spare the carnage of a roll over
Team HOGing5000 logo. Michelangelo's "Hand Of God" actually touching the acronym for words "Hand Of God" ...yeah? ...yeah? ...get it?
Last edited:
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
The rear cage is from the Vaterra Ascender. It is plastic and similar to Axial's Honcho.
Bilinvic did a very detailed thread on his build using the same cab and cage. Check it out for inspiration or more info:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx10-ii/577776-bilinvics-scx10-2-build-ver-2-a.html
Triggerhapy did one as well. You can see his rig on post #285 in the SCX10 II picture - no talking thread stickied at the top of the SCX10 II home page:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axia...ii-official-picture-thread-no-talking-15.html
Cool thanks for the tips! Can't decide if I want to run a box or roll cage.
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
Okay, time to update the changes to my SCX10 II #2.
I originally picked this up to have another car around for my kids to drive. I wanted to keep it stock as long as I could. I am done making mods to my XJ and therefore have the bug to put some work into the Toyota build now.
The body process is pictured and described above. I added mirrors and door handles from an XJ parts tree. I am using strong rare earth magnets to hold the hood down. Surprisingly, this has worked quite well. We'll see what how I still feel after I take this rig to it's first comp and experience more roll overs.
I've been running it with the stock wheelbase and think I would like to stretch the rear end out just a tiny bit. I'm not sure if it's necessary; but, it almost looks like the wheels should be back a tad in relation to the cage and where they hit when flexing. I'm going to use some longer RPM rod ends to try this.
I also debated on hub width. I kind of wanted to stay where I was at or go wider. I ended up choosing .350 hubs to go with VP 105's. I do wonder how wider would affect side hilling and spreading out the foot print; However, I felt like .350 was a safe bet to start with instead of the next size up.
Although I typically drive the XJ when trailing and the Bomber when playing at technical areas, I have driven this truck a fair amount just messing around. I am excited to see how noticeable some of these mods might (or might not) be.
List of parts to go on:
- Hitec HS-7955 servo
- Axial aluminum servo horn
- Castle Creations external bec
- SSD RC Pro44 axle case
- SSD RC Pro44 axle case rear
- SSD PRO44 HD metal diff covers (BLACK)
- SSD heavy brass knuckles
- SSD Pro aluminum C Hubs (BLACK)
- Locked Up max clearance track bar
- SSD stainless steel lower link set
- RPM (TRAXXAS) long rod ends (push rear axle back/lengthen wheel base)
- SSD aluminum shock/link mounts (BLACK)
- Traxxas TRX 4 GTS shocks
- Incision SCX metal transmission gear set
- Vanquish Method 105's (BLACK) with (BLACK) rings
- Vanquish .350 hubs (BLACK)
- Pro-Line TSL Super Swamper SL tires. Vented. (Used)
- Pro-Line 1.9" dual stage closed cell inner / soft outer foam inserts
A local friend was willing to trade me his black VP rings for my Silver so that I could get the solid black on black look I wanted on my 105's.
You've all seen these before. Surprisingly my stock servo has held up. I'll hopefully be making a servo winch out of it after it comes off
I really would like an aluminum RC4WD fuel cell; but, $$$ dang! I'll stick with painting up a Yeti cell for now
My buddy Dave (mentioned in the above post) gave me a Duratrax car stand as a late Christmas present. These are awesome. Not sure why I never picked one up before. Makes working on toy cars much better
First night of wrenching with Dave during AMA supercross. Didn't get much done other than lower links and one side of wheels. Turns out I accidentally threw away a set of my VP hubs when I was out of town. Luckily my parents were still at their condo and went dumpster diving to fish the little black bag worth $18.99 out of the garbage and bring it home to me
I originally picked this up to have another car around for my kids to drive. I wanted to keep it stock as long as I could. I am done making mods to my XJ and therefore have the bug to put some work into the Toyota build now.
The body process is pictured and described above. I added mirrors and door handles from an XJ parts tree. I am using strong rare earth magnets to hold the hood down. Surprisingly, this has worked quite well. We'll see what how I still feel after I take this rig to it's first comp and experience more roll overs.
I've been running it with the stock wheelbase and think I would like to stretch the rear end out just a tiny bit. I'm not sure if it's necessary; but, it almost looks like the wheels should be back a tad in relation to the cage and where they hit when flexing. I'm going to use some longer RPM rod ends to try this.
I also debated on hub width. I kind of wanted to stay where I was at or go wider. I ended up choosing .350 hubs to go with VP 105's. I do wonder how wider would affect side hilling and spreading out the foot print; However, I felt like .350 was a safe bet to start with instead of the next size up.
Although I typically drive the XJ when trailing and the Bomber when playing at technical areas, I have driven this truck a fair amount just messing around. I am excited to see how noticeable some of these mods might (or might not) be.
List of parts to go on:
- Hitec HS-7955 servo
- Axial aluminum servo horn
- Castle Creations external bec
- SSD RC Pro44 axle case
- SSD RC Pro44 axle case rear
- SSD PRO44 HD metal diff covers (BLACK)
- SSD heavy brass knuckles
- SSD Pro aluminum C Hubs (BLACK)
- Locked Up max clearance track bar
- SSD stainless steel lower link set
- RPM (TRAXXAS) long rod ends (push rear axle back/lengthen wheel base)
- SSD aluminum shock/link mounts (BLACK)
- Traxxas TRX 4 GTS shocks
- Incision SCX metal transmission gear set
- Vanquish Method 105's (BLACK) with (BLACK) rings
- Vanquish .350 hubs (BLACK)
- Pro-Line TSL Super Swamper SL tires. Vented. (Used)
- Pro-Line 1.9" dual stage closed cell inner / soft outer foam inserts
A local friend was willing to trade me his black VP rings for my Silver so that I could get the solid black on black look I wanted on my 105's.
You've all seen these before. Surprisingly my stock servo has held up. I'll hopefully be making a servo winch out of it after it comes off
I really would like an aluminum RC4WD fuel cell; but, $$$ dang! I'll stick with painting up a Yeti cell for now
My buddy Dave (mentioned in the above post) gave me a Duratrax car stand as a late Christmas present. These are awesome. Not sure why I never picked one up before. Makes working on toy cars much better
First night of wrenching with Dave during AMA supercross. Didn't get much done other than lower links and one side of wheels. Turns out I accidentally threw away a set of my VP hubs when I was out of town. Luckily my parents were still at their condo and went dumpster diving to fish the little black bag worth $18.99 out of the garbage and bring it home to me
Last edited:
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
Car bodies and designs are definitely a personal thing and as much as we all would like others to appreciate what we do... our own opinion of our own builds holds the most water. I'm glad you were able to see another build before making a purchase that you would not have been happy with.
That being said, I actually think the Ascender cage is a perfect SR5 match functionally and aesthetically. The top tubes line up perfect with the cab roof and sides and the main tubes down the sides line up perfect with the hood and window lines on the cab. Length is just about perfect as well, once I stretch the wheelbase a tiny bit, considering it's covered in sheet metal and acts like a flat bed.
Best wishes on your build. I'm happy my pictures helped solidfy your decisions... even though that means you don't like my rig... ;-)
Last edited:
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
Two notes on my brand choices:
1) On my Bomber I went almost all Vanquish parts. Everyone knows VP and you can't go wrong choosing VP. That being said, I went almost all SSD on my first 10 II. SSD has worked hard to get the right parts out that we have wanted to see on the 10 II... and they have done it in a timely fashion. This makes me want to support them as well. I love my VP and Incision parts and chose their wheels and a few other items on both my 10 II builds; but, I also want to support SSD for doing such a great job of listening and providing desired parts. I just wish someone in Utah would carry them locally.
My first 10 II build utilized SSD's aluminum knuckles, C hubs and lockouts along with SSD brass weights. For my second build I went with the SSD Pro 44 axles. This looks to be a great product balancing materials and cost. I love the idea of the Pro 44 and Diamond Pro axles and the price point it hits.
2) On my other rigs I have used Crawler Innovations dual stage foams. I love the product and have absolutely no complaints. I guess curiosity more than anything made me give Pro-Line's dual stage offering a look. The description says they're made for XL tires like the Hyrax and Swampers (4.75); However, I was surprised at how much my Swampers ballooned when I installed the Pro-Line foams. I am hoping that they calm down and work in. If not, I will go back to CI. I have heard some people say that Pro-Line foams are their new go to so I guess I'll just have to drive them in a bit and see what I think.
1) On my Bomber I went almost all Vanquish parts. Everyone knows VP and you can't go wrong choosing VP. That being said, I went almost all SSD on my first 10 II. SSD has worked hard to get the right parts out that we have wanted to see on the 10 II... and they have done it in a timely fashion. This makes me want to support them as well. I love my VP and Incision parts and chose their wheels and a few other items on both my 10 II builds; but, I also want to support SSD for doing such a great job of listening and providing desired parts. I just wish someone in Utah would carry them locally.
My first 10 II build utilized SSD's aluminum knuckles, C hubs and lockouts along with SSD brass weights. For my second build I went with the SSD Pro 44 axles. This looks to be a great product balancing materials and cost. I love the idea of the Pro 44 and Diamond Pro axles and the price point it hits.
2) On my other rigs I have used Crawler Innovations dual stage foams. I love the product and have absolutely no complaints. I guess curiosity more than anything made me give Pro-Line's dual stage offering a look. The description says they're made for XL tires like the Hyrax and Swampers (4.75); However, I was surprised at how much my Swampers ballooned when I installed the Pro-Line foams. I am hoping that they calm down and work in. If not, I will go back to CI. I have heard some people say that Pro-Line foams are their new go to so I guess I'll just have to drive them in a bit and see what I think.
Last edited:
sorry, never meant it to sound that way. i like your rig and your build, but the ascender cage like i said does not look scale to me on the current wheelbase you have in the photos. you are correct in pointing out that the wheelbase needs to be adjusted to make it scale, i dont think i have the time or patience to go that route on my build (that's why it is unusable to me).
wishing you the best... looking forward to your progress! "thumbsup"
tdc
Rock Stacker
is there a reason to stick to one brand specifically, other than just wanting to support your favorites? i ask because with my build, i've not really been trying to stick to one brand or another, i've been picking up what's available at the time/best priced/gets done what i'm trying to get done. i haven't ran into any compatibility issues, but my samix hi-clearance knuckles haven't arrived yet to install on the st racing concepts brass c-hubs i've installed on my sdd diamond pro axle housings with vanquish lockers, haha
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
No need to be sorry. I didn't take any offence or think that you meant to cause any.
We all have different tastes regardless. It's hard not to be married to our own work; However, we shouldn't be offended if someone doesn't love what we do. Not saying you don't, or that you do... just saying we shouldn't expect everyone to agree with our tastes and we shouldn't be offended by those who don't. These are just toy cars after all. So, all is well.
I really like where your Honcho build is going, especially the bumper you are using. I'm looking forward to the new SR5 cab you will be putting on that rig. If you keep that bumper, make sure you list what it is if you didn't already. I may have missed it; but, I don't recall it saying.
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
This is definitely a personal opinion for sure. I don't see a specific need to stick with one brand other than if I find a brand that provides good products based on value, quality and/or customer service, that makes me want to support them and gives me reason not to go elsewhere. If a company does something exceptionally well, I will give them props and I will spread the good word and try to bring them business.
That being said, If I love a bunch of items from one brand; but, find equal quality at a much better price point elsewhere... or a much better product even if it cost a bit more... I will likely mix and match and make sure I buy what I like in the end.
Being loyal does not mean having to buy an inferior product, an overpriced product or an uglier product just to be true. A brand still has to provide a good product. This mentality goes beyond toy cars and applies to all of my hobbies. There are a very limited and select few brands that have done something so well that I am absolutely and completely loyal to without even thinking of going elsewhere. Smith optics is one for example. Until they change the way they do business, design and build products or support the customer... nothing else will go on my face while I ski, bike, motorcycle, chill or participate in any other activity that benefits from quality eye-wear.
That is my opinion anyway.
Last edited:
thanks for being so open minded!
as for the bumper, it was transferred from my SCX10 v1 build, this is why i forgot to mention it on the v2 build thread. to be honest, i really love the way it looks and it closely resembles the stock plastic poison spider bumper i had on before... the problem is the alloy is really thin and when i suffered a head-on fall of the rocks it got all mangled up the left side, i had a body mechanic repair it for me. this is the package it came in...
wow... forgot how big the size of my old photos are.
thanks again!
hth
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
Rig #2 update:
I got all the new parts installed and took it out for a trial run. I liked it and especially liked the longer wheel base. That being said, I felt I wanted a little more stability on side hills and off camber obstacles so I replaced the .350 SLW's with .600. Think of this as a Toyota with full width axles. I had to trim the fenders more than I would have liked; but, I love the new stance and associated stability. It crawls so much differently than my XJ. Granted the weight is distributed differently and this one is not nearly as top heavy. However, the wider longer stance and better approach/departure angles allow it to take lines that the XJ cannot. The XJ wins on break over angles with a shorter wheelbase so I do have to be keen on that aspect. All in all, I am very pleased with this rig and how it works on the rock.
I wish that SSD or VP would release an XR width housing for the high pinion style AR44. Although I achieved a wider stance with the .600 hubs, my next project is a hard body. I really would prefer wider axles so that the steering and fender rub (and stress as some suggest?) wouldn't be as affected as it is with wider hubs.
After making the stance adjustments I was ready for my third local comp. This would be the first time using this truck as my preferred vehicle in a setting like this. My buddy Dave also made a load of improvements to his JK including many SSD parts, aluminum rims, metal housings etc. Our last comp at this area we turned in a score of like 50 because we just had fun and flipped our cars by hand and foot as needed. With more experience and improved rigs, we decided we'd try and run the course as clean as we could. I had one mistake where I whiskey throttled the truck in reverse and backed into a cone giving me my only penalty for the day. I rolled only once and winched back over to avoid a penalty. I was very happy with how this truck tackled the terrain. This will be my comp truck from now on and the XJ will move to trail rig.
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/256804714" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/256804714">1 Little Moab Utah 2-17-18</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user501015">Shaun Moyes</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/256804377" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/256804377">2 Little Moab Utah 2-17-18</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user501015">Shaun Moyes</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
I got all the new parts installed and took it out for a trial run. I liked it and especially liked the longer wheel base. That being said, I felt I wanted a little more stability on side hills and off camber obstacles so I replaced the .350 SLW's with .600. Think of this as a Toyota with full width axles. I had to trim the fenders more than I would have liked; but, I love the new stance and associated stability. It crawls so much differently than my XJ. Granted the weight is distributed differently and this one is not nearly as top heavy. However, the wider longer stance and better approach/departure angles allow it to take lines that the XJ cannot. The XJ wins on break over angles with a shorter wheelbase so I do have to be keen on that aspect. All in all, I am very pleased with this rig and how it works on the rock.
I wish that SSD or VP would release an XR width housing for the high pinion style AR44. Although I achieved a wider stance with the .600 hubs, my next project is a hard body. I really would prefer wider axles so that the steering and fender rub (and stress as some suggest?) wouldn't be as affected as it is with wider hubs.
After making the stance adjustments I was ready for my third local comp. This would be the first time using this truck as my preferred vehicle in a setting like this. My buddy Dave also made a load of improvements to his JK including many SSD parts, aluminum rims, metal housings etc. Our last comp at this area we turned in a score of like 50 because we just had fun and flipped our cars by hand and foot as needed. With more experience and improved rigs, we decided we'd try and run the course as clean as we could. I had one mistake where I whiskey throttled the truck in reverse and backed into a cone giving me my only penalty for the day. I rolled only once and winched back over to avoid a penalty. I was very happy with how this truck tackled the terrain. This will be my comp truck from now on and the XJ will move to trail rig.
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/256804714" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/256804714">1 Little Moab Utah 2-17-18</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user501015">Shaun Moyes</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/256804377" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/256804377">2 Little Moab Utah 2-17-18</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user501015">Shaun Moyes</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
Also a little teaser for my next project. This arrived this week and I will be picking up my Mojave hard body in about an hour to go with it...
...
...
...
...
...
...
SMF H056
SMF was awesome to work with. Wouldn't take my money until he new he could build. Gave me an estimate once he had time to build and shipped 2 weeks earlier than quoted. I was super pleased with the communication. I had already read a ton of reviews on the actual product and new I would like it. It arrived and I am very pleased with the finished product.
Can't wait to get going on this one. I just need to decide on color and whether to pin the nose or not. Then I need to figure out housings. If SSD releases wider tubes, I'll go that route. Otherwise, being a hard body... I am a little tempted to drop some $$ on Rock Jocks an run wider hubs again.
...
...
...
...
...
...
SMF H056
SMF was awesome to work with. Wouldn't take my money until he new he could build. Gave me an estimate once he had time to build and shipped 2 weeks earlier than quoted. I was super pleased with the communication. I had already read a ton of reviews on the actual product and new I would like it. It arrived and I am very pleased with the finished product.
Can't wait to get going on this one. I just need to decide on color and whether to pin the nose or not. Then I need to figure out housings. If SSD releases wider tubes, I'll go that route. Otherwise, being a hard body... I am a little tempted to drop some $$ on Rock Jocks an run wider hubs again.
I was checking out SMF cages and he seems to have 2 types : Hard bodies Hilux / Mojave and Lexan F250 / Axial Honcho.
Do you know if any of these cages would fit the Lexan SR5 cab ?
I want to choose a cab where i can go nuts with the interior. The parts support for the hardbody hilux is nice and so is the support for the SR5.
Which one would you recommend ?
I also saw the Killerbody LC70 hardbody but it looks really small and i want to run big tires.
Do you know if any of these cages would fit the Lexan SR5 cab ?
I want to choose a cab where i can go nuts with the interior. The parts support for the hardbody hilux is nice and so is the support for the SR5.
Which one would you recommend ?
I also saw the Killerbody LC70 hardbody but it looks really small and i want to run big tires.
