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Portal Axled Series III Land Rover - All Finished!

Finished shaping the front window, went back over a low spot where I filled the wing in, and added the bulgy bits to the doors. I looked at the rear windows, and the way they mount, flush from the outside, I may be stumped to get them to work so they look inset and squared off. Hmmmm...




Also got started on the interior. Flat bedding the back and removing the 2nd row of seating.



11 days remaining. Anybody got some bright ideas for mounting this all to the chassis?
 
Great build idea! Awesome work with the axles "thumbsup"
 
This is what happened to the paint. Chipped right off. Required a lot of sanding and fixing, but I'm happy with the results. Still need to flat it and weather. Originally, the 1:1 had a blue colour underneath that I'll faux recreate where the newer paint has chipped off.



 
Started at this build again. Spent the evening wiring up my BRXL & 35T Holmes motor. Plan on running 3S just for kicks. With that in mind, I figure there's going to be some heavy axle wrap, so I'm trying to come up with a reasonable traction bar setup. Tell me if this is going to work:

I plan on mounting a old axial link on top of the pumpkin, and running it to the chassis. I figure mounting it so it can articulate with the plane of travel up and down will limit the pumpkin from rotating under torque. Kinka like this:


Is that going to work for me?
 
It looks like your axle will roll during articulation, I think it needs to be the same length as the leaf spring from where the axle mounts to the front spring hanger. Similar to a panhard/draglink set up.
I could be wrong though, although, it does seem logical.
 
travis c. said:
It looks like your axle will roll during articulation, I think it needs to be the same length as the leaf spring from where the axle mounts to the front spring hanger. Similar to a panhard/draglink set up.
I could be wrong though, although, it does seem logical.
Click to expand...

Ah, so mine might be a little long. I'll try to snap some pix. It doesn't feel like it's limiting suspension travel, but I haven't committed to drilling a hole in the chassis yet.

Tommy R said:
Great looking build! To address the axle wrap, I'd just run a single arm on top that will have the same arc of travel as the axle under compression/droop. Another more exotic option is what I used on my truck once upon a time. Maybe this would work for you?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rzIyaogSu4
Click to expand...

That's a pretty cool solution. Let me see if I understand. By allowing it to travel through the mount on the chassis, you don't sacrifice any travel, but you can limit the amount of twist by stopping that travel in one direction. One question though, what happens when you go in reverse and get bound up? Does the bar fall out?

Also, here's my hacknoob solution to mounting the body onto the GCM chassis. A couple sheets of aluminum that I bent up in a boat side style that attaches to the frame and stock mounting locations on the body. It's relatively stiff, but I'd like to do something a little more permanent that won't flex.




 
I did mine a little differently but I just used a TLT dual mount on the frame and the axle on my leaf truck. Hard to explain. I'll get a picture for you when I get home. Basically the anti wrap bars connect under the shocks on the axle and right in front of the leaf hanger. Almost no loss of clearance and it seems to work well with bench testing. So now it kinda works with a radius arm swing with leafs.. Funky.
 
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Those aluminum chassis side panels really tie it together. If you mount the body at the bumpers as well it should be very rigid and sturdy.

Looks like your going to have a very close replica of the fullsize here soon.

Nice work narrowing the R1 axles, looks factory.

Any links to the fullsize swap of the Volvo portals onto a Landy?
 
imthatguy said:
That's a pretty cool solution. Let me see if I understand. By allowing it to travel through the mount on the chassis, you don't sacrifice any travel, but you can limit the amount of twist by stopping that travel in one direction. One question though, what happens when you go in reverse and get bound up? Does the bar fall out?
Click to expand...

You got it. Just make sure the rod is long enough that it can't pull out of the endlink that's mounted to the chassis and all will be well. 8)
 
Tommy's set up is much easier to make than mine. I went a little different route but the same idea, here are some pics. It hasn't hung me up on anything yet if you were wondering.












 
That's very helpful guys, Chino, thanks for all the pix. Stand by for my solution, hopefully you'll all approve.
 
Here is another antiwrap solution out side of building a proper ladder style bar. I kinda stole this idea from oldschool hot rod street racers. I eneded up running this "temporary" set up for years and it worked great.

Only thing I would do differently on the 1:1 version is raise the u bolt plate bracket about 2" for a more correct angle. It s up and out of the way and should be much easier to fit on the SCX10 considering your mounting options.

Really cool build so far, good job.



100_1219.jpg
 
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