Official venom factory support thread

[rmdesignworks]

hey bro,,if you can afford te postage you can ship it to me and ill take a look at it for ya before ya give up on it.

I just wanted to make sure that you understand that I offered to look at your rig and try to help you figure out the problems. The only cost incurred by you would be postage here to me and parts if it turns out to need them. Strip all of your electronics off and the tires and wheels. Wrap the wheel hexes with tape and put your wheel nuts on too. i have stock wheels and tires that I can mock it up with. And electronics I can power it up with.

If there is a physical problem with your rig Ill find it. If its a production issue with the bearings then Ill find that too. I just dont like to see anyone so frustrated by the hobby they are in that they get out of it because they cant find a resolution.

 

[gottorque]

Here's an update to my problem. Venom is sending out parts to fix the original issue, but since then I've had two more inner wheel bearings die.

Another update. Parts got here from Venom just in time for another bearing to go out. That's a total of 5 inner wheel bearings and I've only put half a dozen packs through it. I'm being insanely careful about how I tighten the wheel nuts and there's nothing strange about how everything goes together. I'm not even particularly rough on the poor thing. I'm just about to give up here.

I did have a solution to the problem, but things didn't work out that way. I have a set of Axial axles that I could have swapped onto the Creeper, but I decided to put them under a TCS Edge frame instead. I think my solution at this point may well be to sell the Creeper for what I can get out of it.

I am slowly converting my bearings to sealed Traxxas bearings. I started off with putting them in my differential outputs(when i had my pinion problem i thought it was shot bearings)
Tower has AE and Traxxas ones but you probably can pick them up at your LHS
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLS00&P=7.
Replacing your problem bearings with something other than Venoms might help. Its worth a shot

 

[viper6171]

way cool of you rm "thumbsup"

 

[clutchjunkie]

2 of my VEN-8364c VCD Yoke Pin 12mm came out of the package kinda mangled, one is too short to use and the other is too long and too mangled up to fit through the hole in the yoke even if I were to grind it down to size. This is the pin that holds the CVD axle together, not the driveshaft.

How do I go about getting a set to replace them? Is there an exact replacement from another vehicle I can just go and get at my LHS, or do I have to try to contact Venom for this part? If I do have to contact Venom, what's the best way to do that?

 

[rmdesignworks]

2 of my VEN-8364c VCD Yoke Pin 12mm came out of the package kinda mangled, one is too short to use and the other is too long and too mangled up to fit through the hole in the yoke even if I were to grind it down to size. This is the pin that holds the CVD axle together, not the driveshaft.

How do I go about getting a set to replace them? Is there an exact replacement from another vehicle I can just go and get at my LHS, or do I have to try to contact Venom for this part? If I do have to contact Venom, what's the best way to do that?

If you arent using the stock drive shafts then the pins for those are the same diameter just a tad longer,,,cut em down a bit

 

[clutchjunkie]

If you arent using the stock drive shafts then the pins for those are the same diameter just a tad longer,,,cut em down a bit

Just got her put together this morning, gonna run the stock parts 'till they break so stock drive shafts for now. I am still waiting on my metal gear/digital servo in the mail so I haven't had a chance to run her yet.

As for the pins, I didn't want to wait and screw around trying to find them so I went to our toolroom's "out of tolerance" guage pin collection and got lucky finding one that fit perfect. Took it home, and 10 mins + dremel later I have a nice new shiny set of yoke pins or whatever they are called.

While I am at it though, anyone elses shock leak like crazy? Only two of mine are leaking so far, but it's bad. I rebuilt one but didn't have time to do the other before work this morning, and I won't know if that fixed it until tonight. Keep in mind, my creeper had never been run, it's just sat on a table for a few days now.

 

[rmdesignworks]

Just got her put together this morning, gonna run the stock parts 'till they break so stock drive shafts for now. I am still waiting on my metal gear/digital servo in the mail so I haven't had a chance to run her yet.

As for the pins, I didn't want to wait and screw around trying to find them so I went to our toolroom's "out of tolerance" guage pin collection and got lucky finding one that fit perfect. Took it home, and 10 mins + dremel later I have a nice new shiny set of yoke pins or whatever they are called.

While I am at it though, anyone elses shock leak like crazy? Only two of mine are leaking so far, but it's bad. I rebuilt one but didn't have time to do the other before work this morning, and I won't know if that fixed it until tonight. Keep in mind, my creeper had never been run, it's just sat on a table for a few days now.

Good find on the pins...They are cvd pins btw. yoke pins are in the drive shafts. if your shocks are leaking and it hasnt been cycled through a few times then you may have a drop or two too many of oil in the shocks. keep checking them but if it doesnt stop leakin it sounds like the cap seals arent seated properly..a wrap or two of teflon plumbers tape will probably solve the issue.

 

[clutchjunkie]

Figured out the shocks, feel kinda stupid. I tried to put them together by putting the plastic cap and rubber bladder piece into the aluminum threaded part of the cap and then screwing that on, thing is it is virtually impossible to get the rubber piece in there correctly.

Turns out you are supposed to put the rubber bladder on the top of the shock, then the plastic cap/shock mount, make sure everything is seated right, then put the threaded aluminum cap over that while holding the plastic cap tight to the shock so it doesn't move while you screw the aluminum piece on. When you get the aluminum piece tightened almost all the way down, make sure the two little tabs on the top of the plastic cap line up with the two little slots in the aluminum cap then finish tightening.

Voila! Perfectly assembled no leak shocks. Dur. I also didn't use the internal springs in the front, and after my first chance to run it today, I will be pulling them out of the back shocks as well. Might cut some 1/2" pieces of fuel line to use as droop stops in there, but those springs just seem like a bad idea.

 

[viper6171]

well i just shot off an e-mail to venom about my stub axle breakage problem , waiting to see what response is .

 

[rmdesignworks]

Figured out the shocks, feel kinda stupid. I tried to put them together by putting the plastic cap and rubber bladder piece into the aluminum threaded part of the cap and then screwing that on, thing is it is virtually impossible to get the rubber piece in there correctly.

Turns out you are supposed to put the rubber bladder on the top of the shock, then the plastic cap/shock mount, make sure everything is seated right, then put the threaded aluminum cap over that while holding the plastic cap tight to the shock so it doesn't move while you screw the aluminum piece on. When you get the aluminum piece tightened almost all the way down, make sure the two little tabs on the top of the plastic cap line up with the two little slots in the aluminum cap then finish tightening.

Voila! Perfectly assembled no leak shocks. Dur. I also didn't use the internal springs in the front, and after my first chance to run it today, I will be pulling them out of the back shocks as well. Might cut some 1/2" pieces of fuel line to use as droop stops in there, but those springs just seem like a bad idea.

its all good man...glad to hear you got them fixed and figured out."thumbsup" I mean afterall youre a CLUTCH JUNKIE not Shock Junkie,,,right? :shock:

well i just shot off an e-mail to venom about my stub axle breakage problem , waiting to see what response is .

Let us know what you hear back Viper

 

[rmdesignworks]

hey guys,
I appologize for the lack of attention on this forum Ive been away and traveling quite a bit for work. We do still pay attention to the forums and keep an eye out for things so just know wew are not far and if you need help with a product you can reach our customer service department anytime. We just hired a new member to CS team actually so we have more staff now to take your calls and emails.

As many of you have seen by now we have just announced 6 new products at the Toy Fair in Germany in February. That effort has taken some attention away from the forum support.

Regarding the high torque servo and the Creeper. The servo is specified for the weight of the truck ready to run so approximately 5lbs. The servo torque is about 5.6lbs. In my personal testing plus some of the staff here will say the same thing we have used this servo in the Creeper and had positive experiences for general use applications.
As you become more familiar with crawing and your interest grows, like anything else, you will find and discover what you need for your vehicle as you push things furhter than before.

The comment was made about tires and that we would tell you the Ridgeline is the best...well no and we dont. Not one tire is the best for all conditions and applications, impossible. What I will tell you is that if you intend to persue any racing or competitive activity like crawling you need to try pretty much everything and have on hand a variety of things like tires in case you can have a competitive advantage. If that happens to be a Ridgeline tire then so be it, cool!

Than being said have you guys tried the Switchback comp tire yet?

Anyway, sorry for the lapse, I'll be checking in more often to see if I can help.

Chris
Venom Racing R&D

Chris,,so,,,where is Venom in all this. Those of us that do,,are doing it. We need your backing if this is gonna work. Period. Come on guys,,,I can mod the hell out of my Creeper to make it crawl but I sent an email that didnt even get answered... The Creeper Crew is getting a little frustrated that just about every rig on the market is getting some sort of factory backing.

The Creeper is a viable shafty platform but without you guys to back what we are doing its all for nought

 

[jojo303d]

Chris,,so,,,where is Venom in all this. Those of us that do,,are doing it. We need your backing if this is gonna work. Period. Come on guys,,,I can mod the hell out of my Creeper to make it crawl but I sent an email that didnt even get answered... The Creeper Crew is getting a little frustrated that just about every rig on the market is getting some sort of factory backing.

The Creeper is a viable shafty platform but without you guys to back what we are doing its all for nought

I back rmdesignworks and back the backing of venom backing us venom creeper users.

 

[hexonox]

stock wheel issues

Anybody having issues with the stock rims fitting really loose on the hex adapters? I have about 0.5mm size difference between the hex and the wheel. I can actually turn the wheel about 2 degrees before the wheel turns the hex.

 

[viper6171]

Anybody having issues with the stock rims fitting really loose on the hex adapters? I have about 0.5mm size difference between the hex and the wheel. I can actually turn the wheel about 2 degrees before the wheel turns the hex.

yeah most all of us have had problems with the hex holes on the stock rims alot of us have switched to aluminum rims . as far as sticking with the stock ones i cheated for a little while i took an aluminum pop can and cut a strip about as wide as the hex and just a hair shorter than it takes to wrap around the hex , then form it around the hex so it will somewhat hold it's shape then put it around the hex and slip into the wheel carefully and tighten the nut .

 

[hexonox]

thanks, aluminum rims are not quite in the budget yet but i appreciate the info.

 

[CREEPERBOB]

Bad hexes

anybody having issues with the stock rims fitting really loose on the hex adapters? I have about 0.5mm size difference between the hex and the wheel. I can actually turn the wheel about 2 degrees before the wheel turns the hex.

yes i have the same problem, i have to tighten 2 of my wheels about every 20 minutes of driving because of the hexes being loose in the wheels and the nuts back off. I'm going to contact venom about this. All other issues i've had with my creepers (3) venom has been real good about taking care of it.

 

[rmdesignworks]

The loosening of the wheel nut is because of torque roll on the axle shaft,,loctite the nut.

some of the venom hexes are a bit off...they will probably replace them for you.

 

[CREEPERBOB]

hexes

The loosening of the wheel nut is because of torque roll on the axle shaft,,loctite the nut.

some of the venom hexes are a bit off...they will probably replace them for you.

yeah even with loctite they still loosen.
also , i'm having trouble with the diff cases, where the red locker ring goes thru, it hogs out the holes in the diff cases so there is a lot of slack from left to right wheels on the axles. I guess thats why they have alloy cases huh.

 

[rmdesignworks]

yeah even with loctite they still loosen.
also , i'm having trouble with the diff cases, where the red locker ring goes thru, it hogs out the holes in the diff cases so there is a lot of slack from left to right wheels on the axles. I guess thats why they have alloy cases huh.

you need to lock the diffs..with JBWeld or buy lockers from FLM or use one of the ther mods to affix the lockers...

What type and brand of thread lock are you using,,and how are you applying it,,,step by step....?

 

[CREEPERBOB]

I have my diffs JB'd but I still have lots of slope from side to side. I'm wondering if it is slack in the ring and pinion? I litterally have 30 degrees or more movement from side to side, of course some of this does come from the hexes too.
I use blue "Loctite", I clean threads on stub axle & nut with contact cleaner and then apply the loctite, install the nut and forget about it till I run it again, usually the next day.