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Official venom factory support thread

CRAWLINGAROUND said:
You have a good point as well and I'm not going to go to great lengths to convince you all of what this is. Either you see the value of the system or you dont and thats fine.
They are not precise because of rpms and how perfectly round they need to be, no not at all, they are precise for their target weight as a machined part, 1.3oz or 2.5oz each part. This gives you the ability to adjust the weight of the wheel as you require and not have to undo your custom assembly, or make extra different sets, in the field and at a comp. In a few minutes you can change the weight and go again, simple as that.
Its not cheap to make these parts or the price would also reflect that. We are very reasonable on all the parts prices I think most would agree.

So thats it from me on this subject.

Chris
Click to expand...


Got ya, but isn't the point of having the pieces machined to exact weight for balance reasons?

I know parts are expensive to have made, I work for RC parts manufacturers. Seems like the processes just weren't optimized for these parts.

It's too bad, I would have loved for these to be an affordable alternative.
 
Harley0706 said:
Got ya, but isn't the point of having the pieces machined to exact weight for balance reasons?

I know parts are expensive to have made, I work for RC parts manufacturers. Seems like the processes just weren't optimized for these parts.

It's too bad, I would have loved for these to be an affordable alternative.
Click to expand...


Yeah, molded pieces would have been more than adequate and the price would have been more reasonable.

Hate to sound like I'm bashing the Creeper, I am really happy w/ mine, just pointing out an issue that as a consumer, I find to be an issue.
 
We looked at all the angles to produce these and there are issues that make it difficult to produce the parts. If you cast the parts then you have a difference in air density in the metal so you have different weights per part. In an effort to have matching parts as close to each other in weight and consistency we opted to machine them. In case someone wants to go very fast with their rig with weights that are all over the board then you have major vibration issues. Granted these are not designed to be racing wheels but someone will do it, lol.
If you look at it this way, you already bought the kit. Lets assume you like the wheels as is and you dont want to buy other ones for the looks. Then lets say you want to tune up the wheels for comps. You buy just one weight set and you have enough parts for all 4 wheels, now your done.

You didnt buy new tires for the new wheels or inserts or weights or spend however much time per wheel designig/building your custom weighted wheels.
On the day of the comp lets say your running 8oz per front wheel and after some driving you decide I want more weight up front. With the weight set you take 5-8min tops per wheel maybe and add/subtract more weight and go.
With the custom weighted wheels, dependng on how you built them, what is involved in changing them? For some guys I bet your stuck with what you made. For others its quite some time involved in the change and for still others its just run them as is I dont have enough time.

So my point is its a quick change system that will not slow you down and affords you the time to do anything you need, it keeps that option to tune the wheel weight open to you. So if you like that and its important to you then you would consider buying the weight set. Ive seen guys spend way more money on less functional hardware in many different vehicles so lets leave it at that. :)"thumbsup"
 
I wish I could answer that with a date and say thats it see you then but I cant. We are working on it as quickly as possible.

Chris
 
I guess Im going to have to break down and buy one... Kinda name sake and all... lol Maybe they should send me one since I have the name!?!? Wouldnt that be sweet... Ive always run there batteries when I can and always have a Venom sticker on all my rides... "thumbsup"
 
well got my venom together and had a broken cvd pin out of the box got less then 100 yards of crawling in my basement and car flipped over backward gave it the throttle to get back on wheels when wheel hit snapped off left rear wheel and left rear link mount snapped as well so i now nedd a rear axle inner and cvd and lower link mount how do i like the crawler not sure at first seemed well built after a test run its broke comparing to my axials so far the axial is better the first 50 yards was nice now can i get parts i hope so
 
Call Venom and tell them what happen´d
and they may replace the axles for free ;-)
There was a bash of over heat treated axles on a few of the first crawlers
 
Ive sent replies to all those who have PM'ed me regarding axles. Paul will be in touch with you shortly and organize your replacement parts pretty quick. We have special ordered enough parts to replace the bad batch parts and those are here so it wont take any time to send them out to you. Just be sure to provide your shipping info and phone number and we will handle the rest.

Chris
 
Chris, I was wondering if the pins that hold the stub axle to the axle is heat treated as well as the axles? I was talking to Paul today and he was unsure, I ask because of the 2 that I have had fail on me so far, They "shatered" for lack of a better word, I found several small peices of them once they failed. they seemed brittle...just curious. Thanks! Oh ya hurry up with the dig already! :)
 
Well i would like to purchase a crawler, would this be a good choice. Is the performance better than a scorpion or losi min?
 
1\4elliptic toy said:
Chris, I was wondering if the pins that hold the stub axle to the axle is heat treated as well as the axles? I was talking to Paul today and he was unsure, I ask because of the 2 that I have had fail on me so far, They "shatered" for lack of a better word, I found several small peices of them once they failed. they seemed brittle...just curious. Thanks! Oh ya hurry up with the dig already! :)
Click to expand...


I tried using a piece of a drill bit as a cross pin in my brushless rock racer and they shattered just like you describe it !!!
I now use a traxxas drive shaft grub screw/pin, cut down to 12mm x 2½mm

 
1\4elliptic toy said:
Chris, I was wondering if the pins that hold the stub axle to the axle is heat treated as well as the axles? I was talking to Paul today and he was unsure, I ask because of the 2 that I have had fail on me so far, They "shatered" for lack of a better word, I found several small peices of them once they failed. they seemed brittle...just curious. Thanks! Oh ya hurry up with the dig already! :)
Click to expand...

That could be and we are seeing a few more cases of that failure so we are tracking that down now. The pins should shear as a safety feature so you dont break more expensive parts but just not a glance! lol If you could find some pins at your LHS that would be better for the time being because I cant be sure of the inventory we have at the moment.

You broke the black pins or the silver pins? The silver go in the center driveline and the black pins go in the VCD's.

Chris
 
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