If you really want hydraulic I have some brand new never been used xtr sitting in a box in my basement I can sell you or some magura mt8 I think that are coming on my cannondale f-si next month that I will also get rid of...
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Official MTB / Mountain Biking Chit Chat
- Thread starter Brandon
- Start date
canadianbacon
RCC Addict
Thanks for the offer, but hydro's are really overkill for my needs.
About the BB7's on eBay I linked to, I can get them with Clean Sweep G2, G3's or HS1 discs. My question is, are the discs down to personal preference on looks, or is there a performance advantage to one over the other? I like the look of the HS1's, since it seems like there's more discs material for the pads to bite into.
About the BB7's on eBay I linked to, I can get them with Clean Sweep G2, G3's or HS1 discs. My question is, are the discs down to personal preference on looks, or is there a performance advantage to one over the other? I like the look of the HS1's, since it seems like there's more discs material for the pads to bite into.
Having only had the g2 out of those 3, I can't compare them. But in my experience having a more solid disc compared to a more vented one does not always mean more braking power. Avid had a disc, think it was called the wavy rotor or something like that and it had a non vented braking surface. It had the least amount of braking power out of any rotor I have used.
lunatick
Pebble Pounder
Just go Hydro mate "thumbsup"
jsowens
RCC Addict
While I agree with the "go hydraulic" comments, the BB7 brakes are a lot better than cheap hydraulics, but be sure to pair them with a good set of levers to get the most out of them. In regards to hydraulics...it's hard to beat a set of Shimanos.
I've tried both the G2 and HS1 rotors from Avid and honestly can't tell a difference in the 2 of them. Running the HS1 right now on Shimano Deore hydraulics and love the setup.
I've tried both the G2 and HS1 rotors from Avid and honestly can't tell a difference in the 2 of them. Running the HS1 right now on Shimano Deore hydraulics and love the setup.
You dont need to get the top of the line hydraulic brakes, the Shimano Deore is a great feeling brake and is not much more than those BB7's. Check Pinkbike.com for some new take off's for a good deal on an upgrade.
That is from somebody other than mfr, I've never seen a deal that good on BB7s which are my favorite mechanical disk brake setup! Buy BB7, BB5 sucks balls.
Unnecessary usually, BB7 with Avid levers are very nice. Get the G3 rotors and it's usually plenty even for most people, but not recommended for downhill. I have BB7s and hydros, the hydro bike is ridden much more aggressively. If you do go hydro, I'd try Shimano XLS or higher spec, they are supposed to be better for bleeding. I've had several sets of Avid hydros and they work well but are a pita to bleed and use brake fluid so you have to watch out for painted surfaces. Shimano uses mineral oil, much easier to clean up.
I've used the G series and G3 is the best, most power, modulation and least noise. I have not used the HS1 so can't comment on it.
Here's some info on G3 versus HS1
http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/new-hs1-rotors-avid-694613.html
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canadianbacon
RCC Addict
That's what I thought, hell of a price though, will probably order over the weekend.
I don't plan on any downhill with mine, just XC and bike trails. Levers I was looking at were Speed Dial 7's. I was also looking at SRAM SlickWire cables.Natedog said:
Yes that's great deal and seller has good feedback, I paid just over $100 for my pair couple years ago and that was smokin deal at the time!
Ok thought so. Speed Dial7 is nice lever to go wtih the BB7! Any good quality stainless steel cable and teflon lined housings will be great. Keep us posted.
Ok thought so. Speed Dial7 is nice lever to go wtih the BB7! Any good quality stainless steel cable and teflon lined housings will be great. Keep us posted.
Silversamps85
Pebble Pounder
I bought a new trek xcalibur 6 this year and have been riding more than usual for me, tonight After a riding I started cleaning it and noticed one of the teeth on the rear gear set is broken off. Excuse my lack of knowledge if that's not what the rear gears are called. Any ways I think it is probably warranty but what the heck? It's not the top of the line but it's what I could afford at the time and it's the most I've spent on a bike. So I guess my question is, is there a problem with the stock gears that come on these bikes or was this just a fluke thing? Should I be thinking of upgrading and if so where do I start?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pics? Probably from shifting up to larger cog under heavy chain load, you must easy up on the pedals when shifting down to smaller cog and especially up to larger cog! I've seen guys on new high end mtb snap the chain in half and bend/break cassettes and chainrings because they were constantly shifting under heavy load. You prolly need new chain and maybe chainrings (front gears) too if you've broken several teeth off the casette (rear gears) as you stated.
Silversamps85
Pebble Pounder
I'll go snap a pic and I'm sure I did shift under load, but I have been riding for a long time and this is a first.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Silversamps85
Pebble Pounder
That's the missing tooth
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That's the missing tooth
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I would have to agree with Natedog. That happened to me from putting too much load when I was shifting down to a smaller cog, I felt a skip after a shift and when I got home I looked and a tooth was missing. Check your chain, make sure it's not fawked up too.
Yes and that cassette looks worn out in a couple of the middle cogs, definitely check the chain and chainrings while replacing the cassette. Also clean your chain and gears more often (something I need to do to). Read these about shifting and gear selection.
How to Shift a Bicycle: Beginner's Guide | Bicycling Magazine
How and When to Best Shift Bike Gears | Bicycling Magazine
rockhugger
RCC Addict
That's the missing tooth
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What does that say on the big cog there, "Mega something" I might have one of those cassettes in brand new never used condition, I'll look at it today. I tend to save things like thinking someone somewhere someday will need it.
I agree with the BB7s. BB7s are really nice, especially for cable disks and have plenty of power and modulation. For trials they are generally recommended for front disk due to their bite and hold and price.
I am a fan of hydros because of their feel. I even run hydro rim brakes on one of my bikes. I would skip Avid hydros though. I have had nothing but problems with all of the ones I have used, bled or otherwise been around. The Shimanos are a great price, even a Deore would be plenty for most people, but I always come back to Magura. Ive run Maggie HS33s for years with zero issues. I run some Louise FR brakes on my FR bike right now. They have less initial bite than brakes such as the Shimano but have far more modulation, feel and stopping power. Mineral oil can still FUBAR your pads. It does not soak up water like DOT and the Magura stuff I use it supposed to have a higher boiling temp too.
Silversamps85
Pebble Pounder
Here is a better pic of the model
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gearhead79
Quarry Creeper
Hydro's feel nice but I always run mechanical's.
I ran into a nice deal at blue sky cycles,funn EZR brakes,shimano cables and all other hardware,and avid levers,for somewhere around 65 BUCKS I wanna say.I gotta say,funn might be a cheaper brand but they have worked awsome for me!!!!
