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No Drift Winch Controller! (using 3 position transmitter channel)

Thank you sir! Ran the truck most of the day today without any winch creep or problems. "thumbsup"
 
I got my controller the other day and have a few mintues tonight to take my servo apart and make the swap. I'm working on a 645 and removed 3 wires off the motor. There are 3 more wires connected to the board and I'm guessing the Pot. I pulled the part the wires connect to under the pot and reassembled the servo. I plugged everything in and got nothing.

In your second picture on page 1, under the new controller there's screw holding in a the part I removed.

What did I do wrong?
 
I got my controller the other day and have a few mintues tonight to take my servo apart and make the swap. I'm working on a 645 and removed 3 wires off the motor. There are 3 more wires connected to the board and I'm guessing the Pot. I pulled the part the wires connect to under the pot and reassembled the servo. I plugged everything in and got nothing.

In your second picture on page 1, under the new controller there's screw holding in a the part I removed.

What did I do wrong?

The screw you mentioned is holding a pot. The pot is not used. I have a feeling that the extra motor connection might have confused things. The extra connection is used to ground the motor case to the original circuit board. So maybe you have one of the controller's outputs connected to the ground (motor case) terminal instead of the motor winding. If that doesn't get you fixed up, maybe you can post a picture and we will get it figured out.

Thanks,
Al
 
Just letting you all know that I've had to raise my prices slightly. I don't do this lightly, but at the same time, I can't build these for free. My time does have some value.

The Winch Controller for Two Position Channel is now $25

Regards,
Al
 
Got my replacement installed today after a brief no worky scenrio I got it working. I think one of the wires was just pinched a bit. It is however not very smooth, it has a consistant studder in the same place everytime around. I'm going to take it apart again and check the geartrain.

Great product and customer service, I'll be buying another one sooner of later.
 
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Just wanted to say thanks Al, great little controller"thumbsup". Not much larger than a pea, much smaller than a milk dud! Came already sealed too with heatshrink & silicone it looks like. Smartest way to go with a 3racing winch would be to buy the winch only, if possible (my controller didn't even last a minute?:cry:) and then use this controller to power it:mrgreen:
 
Got the little packet, THANKS! Was quite impressed with the performance of the 3-position controller. Operation was smooth and the hold was quite firm. Definitely the perfect pair to the MSD Scale 8274 winch. "thumbsup"


Just a quick update: Swapped-out the 2nd 3-way controller, then using the same MSD winch and settings, it ran in one direction. Tried 2-position dial and switch settings, still running in 1 direction.
 
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I'm assuming these will work for any servo? In paticular, a savox. Thx

I've never had a savox servo or seen inside one. If the motor inside has two terminals which means it is a brushed motor and you can power it up with 6 volts, you are good to go.
 
Yes it just has the damn circuit board soldered to the motor posts instead of wires.

Those look a little intimidating to remove, but it can be done.
Since you are replacing the circuit board with my controller anyway, you don't have to be super careful with it.

If you have access to desoldering equipment like a solder sucker and or desoldering braid, use those. If you don't, what you can do is heat the pad with the motor lead and once the solder is molten, tap the servo on a table so that the solder will slide out and off of the motor lead. Do this on the other lead as well. Note that sometimes there will be a third connection that is tied to the motor can.
Once most of the solder is removed from around the connection, use a small screw driver to gently pry up the circuit board.
You might have to heat the pad a little more. Repeat for the other connection(s) and then you should be able to remove the circuit board.
 
Those look a little intimidating to remove, but it can be done.
Since you are replacing the circuit board with my controller anyway, you don't have to be super careful with it.

If you have access to desoldering equipment like a solder sucker and or desoldering braid, use those. If you don't, what you can do is heat the pad with the motor lead and once the solder is molten, tap the servo on a table so that the solder will slide out and off of the motor lead. Do this on the other lead as well. Note that sometimes there will be a third connection that is tied to the motor can.
Once most of the solder is removed from around the connection, use a small screw driver to gently pry up the circuit board.
You might have to heat the pad a little more. Repeat for the other connection(s) and then you should be able to remove the circuit board.

Yep, pretty much what i was thinking, but thx for the reenforcement lol. Didn't want to pull a warpig
 
I got my unit and I just finished installing it. It works but it doesn't function at all on my aux channel. I've swapped out receiver units and it still doesn't function. I'm using a Hitec 645mg pulling the old unit out and soldered the two wires to the motor can as pictured. So any ideas?

Thanks Thomas
 
I got my unit and I just finished installing it. It works but it doesn't function at all on my aux channel. I've swapped out receiver units and it still doesn't function. I'm using a Hitec 645mg pulling the old unit out and soldered the two wires to the motor can as pictured. So any ideas?

Thanks Thomas

Hi Thomas,

Help me understand what's happening:
It works but it doesn't function at all on my aux channel.
Does this mean it works on another channel? Or something else?
 
I got mine in last week, finally found time to wire it up, and it works great! I tried it both on one of the knobs and a spare stick on my 9ch, no problems with either. One thing that I found very nice is that it has a nice wide neutral area. If you are using a 2 axis stick (like I am), with one axis for steering, and the other for the winch, you don't have to worry that every little twitch up or down on the stick will result in winch movement. The only thing, and this is just because my truck is so darn long, that I wish was different is that the wires overall were about an inch longer. However, my winch is 18 inches from my receiver, so most people should be fine!

Thanks very much, I'll be doing business with you again!

-val

edit: I'm using this on an RC4WD Bulldog 9300 winch, which had horrible creep with the stock controller.
 
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I got mine in last week, finally found time to wire it up, and it works great! I tried it both on one of the knobs and a spare stick on my 9ch, no problems with either. One thing that I found very nice is that it has a nice wide neutral area. If you are using a 2 axis stick (like I am), with one axis for steering, and the other for the winch, you don't have to worry that every little twitch up or down on the stick will result in winch movement. The only thing, and this is just because my truck is so darn long, that I wish was different is that the wires overall were about an inch longer. However, my winch is 18 inches from my receiver, so most people should be fine!

Thanks very much, I'll be doing business with you again!

-val

edit: I'm using this on an RC4WD Bulldog 9300 winch, which had horrible creep with the stock controller.

Excellent, I'm happy it worked out for you.

It's funny, but most people want shorter wires than I provide, so I just never know. If someone has a request for a certain length wire on a product, I can probably make it, just let me know!
 
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