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New SSD SCX10 axle housings
- Thread starter STANG KILLA SS
- Start date
DadCanyoufix?
Rock Crawler
Had I not already had a mount in my parts bin, I would have ordered SSD's due to the fact everything else I have bought from them blew me away. I used a spare parts recycled junk level 3 RC mount and with home made links, it seems to be doing just fine. If I can make that silly waste of cash useful, I don't know if it matters what kit you buy if you're ready to tune it.
I would buy the SSD one to also aquire the aluminum panhard/upper link mount if I wasn't recycling.
XSRCdesign
I wanna be Dave
svt923
I wanna be Dave
I'm inclined to say any of the brands that mount the servo parallel to the chassis rail over the VP bumper mount. I have the VP mount on my truck and it has taken alot of trial and error to get both full steering throw and minimum bump steer. Plus the VP bumper mount requires you to source a panhard mount for the chassis while it is included with the other kits.
fr8cture
I wanna be Dave
I believe the bumper one is suppose to be used with the currie Panhard which includes the frame side Panhard mount.
Well, I taught myself yet another lesson, this one cost me a little more than 100.00 and several days of down time.
You all remember,ver asking a few posts ago if the D60's caused some sort of geometry change, and commenting about how the "arms" of my Vanquish knuckles seems to be angled to the ground I instead of level as they were with the stock housings?
This afternoon I found out why.
It seems that during my late night adventure assembling my new D60's I put the right side chub on the left side of the housing anf the left chub on the right side.
So I sat down to switch them when I found what I had done. However, you might also remember in that same post I made mention that both the Vanquish lockouts and the chubs fit very tight on the housings, in fact I had to lightly tap them on on with a jewelers hammer and I asked if that was "normal" with installing Vanquish parts to the D60's.
I still don't have a response as to if that tight fit is "normal" or not, but I can tell you what the result was.
When I went to remove the chubs today, there was no way they were coming off. I basically destroyed them. I suspect the same will happen to the lockouts when I try to remove them.
So I had no choice but to order new chubs today and while I was at it I ordered new lockouts as well in anticipation of destroying the lockouts getting them off. I also ordered two new Axel housings because I also had to tap the brass tubes into D60's and I'm guessing they are not coming out without destroying the housing. I'm figuring the likelihood of getting the lockouts off without damaging the housing is nil at best as well, hence two instead of one new D60 housing.
Here's the weird part. I test fit everything onto the housings before I installed them, it all went on pretty easy, the brass tubes just dropped right in. But that was without the diffs in AND without the trusses on.
The diffs went in very tight, it was a bit of a struggle getting the bearings pressed into the housing. Next I installed the trusses, then came the brass tubes in the front axel housing. The brass tubes dropped in about two thirds, then wouldn't go in any further without tapping them.
This should have been my first hint that something wasn't right. Without the trusses on the dropped right in. After the tubes I put the chubs on, they were much tighter than when I test fit them without the trusses on. I had to gent,y tap these on as well… I guess that should have been my second hint. The lxkouts were a repeat of the chubs install, very tight and had to be tapped on. I do not have brass tubes in the rear housing.
Is any of this normal with vanquish on these housings?
I plan to lightly sand the D60's the new chubs will fit easier. I doubt I'll
get the tubes out or the lockouts off without destroying the housings.
You all remember,ver asking a few posts ago if the D60's caused some sort of geometry change, and commenting about how the "arms" of my Vanquish knuckles seems to be angled to the ground I instead of level as they were with the stock housings?
This afternoon I found out why.
It seems that during my late night adventure assembling my new D60's I put the right side chub on the left side of the housing anf the left chub on the right side.
So I sat down to switch them when I found what I had done. However, you might also remember in that same post I made mention that both the Vanquish lockouts and the chubs fit very tight on the housings, in fact I had to lightly tap them on on with a jewelers hammer and I asked if that was "normal" with installing Vanquish parts to the D60's.
I still don't have a response as to if that tight fit is "normal" or not, but I can tell you what the result was.
When I went to remove the chubs today, there was no way they were coming off. I basically destroyed them. I suspect the same will happen to the lockouts when I try to remove them.
So I had no choice but to order new chubs today and while I was at it I ordered new lockouts as well in anticipation of destroying the lockouts getting them off. I also ordered two new Axel housings because I also had to tap the brass tubes into D60's and I'm guessing they are not coming out without destroying the housing. I'm figuring the likelihood of getting the lockouts off without damaging the housing is nil at best as well, hence two instead of one new D60 housing.
Here's the weird part. I test fit everything onto the housings before I installed them, it all went on pretty easy, the brass tubes just dropped right in. But that was without the diffs in AND without the trusses on.
The diffs went in very tight, it was a bit of a struggle getting the bearings pressed into the housing. Next I installed the trusses, then came the brass tubes in the front axel housing. The brass tubes dropped in about two thirds, then wouldn't go in any further without tapping them.
This should have been my first hint that something wasn't right. Without the trusses on the dropped right in. After the tubes I put the chubs on, they were much tighter than when I test fit them without the trusses on. I had to gent,y tap these on as well… I guess that should have been my second hint. The lxkouts were a repeat of the chubs install, very tight and had to be tapped on. I do not have brass tubes in the rear housing.
Is any of this normal with vanquish on these housings?
I plan to lightly sand the D60's the new chubs will fit easier. I doubt I'll
get the tubes out or the lockouts off without destroying the housings.
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Thanks for the tip. I'll try it when the new c-hubs get here.
What I'm about to say isn't really a bitch, just a general comment. My mistake is on me, I should have known to stop things weren't fitting together well. However, I'm sure that when these things were designed the were tested with other aftermarket parts; especially populR parts.
It would be nice if whatever was found was published so you don't have to learn the hard and expensive side.
There are slight tolerance differences between SSD parts and VP parts. This is normal for all brands. I recommend you use a rotary tool (dremel) to sand off some material (0.1mm) around the bearing housing on the ends of the D60 tubes. This should solve your tight VP parts problem.
Of course you could have just used SSD parts and not had this issue: PARTS FOR SCX10
We are working towards having complete SSD axles so these issues dont happen in future.
Of course you could have just used SSD parts and not had this issue: PARTS FOR SCX10
We are working towards having complete SSD axles so these issues dont happen in future.
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Thanks for the quick reply and the tip. I'll dremel the ends a bit when the new C-hubs arrive. Completely my fault, even though this is my first crawler I've been in RC long enough to know better than to force things together with a hammer.
Quick question though. Is there a possibility that the truss when tightened pulls up on the housing causing a slight bend. I ask because…
> I test fit everything without the truss and it all went together. Then with the truss on when I assembled ll the parts, that when things went on tight including the SSD brass tubes. The tubes just slid in easily without the truss, with the truss I had to tap about the last third of the tube in.
> the Vanquish c-hubs and lockouts went on about half way then the got tight to the point that I tapped them on.
This is why I ask if there could be a slight bend from the truss.
Unfortunately being new to crawlers I wasn't aware of SSD when I ordered all the upgrades. I didn't learn about SSD until I started reading this forum. By then I had already invested in VP upgrades. Seeing the quality of the SSD products however as I need to replace parts from wear ( as apposed to being stupid a hammering brand new parts) I'll replace them with SSD products.
Bananaclip
I wanna be Dave
I'm loving every part that SSD has released so far. I just removed my SSD pro knuckles and chubs and replaced them with the new Locked up rc knuckles, chubs, and brass bushings. The only reason was the extra castor adjustment the locked up rc set up offered. This was a hard decision because the SSD pro parts are soooooo nice and offer great castor themselves. Function over form I guess, but the LURC parts are beautifully machined as well. :mrgreen:
Di_Spencer
Quarry Creeper
Couldn't you run the locked up chubs with the ssd knuckles?
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
The hub going on half way then toght was like mine. Removing the bearing solved this. As for the brasstubes I suspect it might be the screw that secures the truss to the housing touching the brass tube. Remove that screw then install then put back the screw. As for the tight fit of the lockouts I think you might need a light sand or dremil as the bearing is not in the housing but the lockout isn't it?
Ya know I don't don't have the truck in front of me, but working from memory I think the bearing goes into the housing and is held in place by the lockout. I'll have to look at when I get home.
The truss screw is what I thought was causing the problem with getting the tubes in. I backed them off and it didn't change anything, I completely removed them and nothing changed.
So I'm kind of at a loss as to the cause. I'd guess it is just a light brush with a dremel to fix it, but it's weirded that it all fit before I put the riffs and the trusses on. If I wasn't concerned about not being able to get them FG again what I consider is installing the tubes, chubs, duffs then the truss to see if it makes any difference.
I don't think I want to take another 100.00+ gamble. So I'll probably play it safe a light dremel the ends of the axels to get the lockouts and chubs on. It won't take but a very light touch of the dremel.
What I will do though is reassemble the broken parts in that order and see if it makes any difference.
Bananaclip
I wanna be Dave
I think I can and just might end up with that combo.
I would also have thought it was the truss mounting screw stopping the tubes from dropping in. I very much doubt the axle is flexing. Just put the tubes in first, then bearings, C hubs and put the truss on last.
Bananaclip
I wanna be Dave
The problem is without a doubt screw interference. My 3 sets of SSD axles all have SSD tubes installed with no issue whatsoever.
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