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New Associated Enduro Crawler - Free-Mods & Upgrades
- Thread starter Browneye
- Start date
Ah yes it looks like this will interfere with them, though a bit more cutting might fix it... or a new 3D printed tray maybe?
soze
I wanna be Dave
Awesome Chris. This thread should be stickied... like the way NateDog's Ascender thread should be LOL.
Lots of good content with everybody's new rigs, so it make sense to compile it together as a reference source.
So keep posting all the good stuff. Lots of cool threads and builds going - this platform is on FIRE! "thumbsup"
One of the newer forum members was asking about the Vaterra cage roll bars on mine and wanted to know if I knew if the TRX4 sport rack-system would work. So I pulled out my parts from my kit and low and behold, the box is nearly identical in dimension, and it appears it could be made to work with a little tweaking.
I see you can buy the basic rack parts separately, so there's another potential option for accessorizing the Element Enduro.
Kit-bashing is what we used to call this, taking parts from one kit and mod'ing them or using them in another kit.
So keep posting all the good stuff. Lots of cool threads and builds going - this platform is on FIRE! "thumbsup"
One of the newer forum members was asking about the Vaterra cage roll bars on mine and wanted to know if I knew if the TRX4 sport rack-system would work. So I pulled out my parts from my kit and low and behold, the box is nearly identical in dimension, and it appears it could be made to work with a little tweaking.
I see you can buy the basic rack parts separately, so there's another potential option for accessorizing the Element Enduro.
Kit-bashing is what we used to call this, taking parts from one kit and mod'ing them or using them in another kit.
soze
I wanna be Dave
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elem...s-enduro-sendero-rtr-fleet-3.html#post5951384
I moved the lower shock mount location from the lower shock mount position to the same position as the lower links so that the shock angle wouldn't be as "laid" down as it first was when I put the BOM cage on. It's now at an acceptable angle. This might also be useful for those of you that want to run longer shocks.
Here you can see where the original lower shock mount position is versus the new location.
A nice bonus to this change is that I have somewhere to mount a swaybar link should I decide to use one.
I moved the lower shock mount location from the lower shock mount position to the same position as the lower links so that the shock angle wouldn't be as "laid" down as it first was when I put the BOM cage on. It's now at an acceptable angle. This might also be useful for those of you that want to run longer shocks.
Here you can see where the original lower shock mount position is versus the new location.
A nice bonus to this change is that I have somewhere to mount a swaybar link should I decide to use one.
I just copy pasted this from my build thread
Lowered tranny/motor mod:
I've been staring at the tranny and skid plate all morning thinking about how I can lower the tranny. I even started a new skid CAD design. I ended up settling on just modding the stock parts because without making a skid thats lower than stock with link locations that are also lower I couldn't get the tranny any lower.
So this happened (I used a fine toothed hand saw) a new tranny case is $12.99 BTW for those that are timid.
Then I took it to my belt sander for a little clean up and maybe another millimeter or so.
Then I carved up (and filed) the skid where the tranny mounts at an angle. This is because the outer most holes cant rally be thinned out any while the inner holes can be. I took off maybe 2mm here on the inner portion.
The motor plate and cover also need some trimming
You'll need to use shorter screws to mount the tranny after this, for the short screws I used 6mm and the longer screws were 12mm though 10mm might be safer (12mm is pushing it). I'm happy to report theres still a good amount of thread grab even with these shorter screws.
Whether you can go as low as I did may depend on what motor and pinion you use. I'm using a 14t pinion and a smaller 500 series motor.
So I think overall the tranny is 4.5-5mm lower now and I think since it was rotated a bit the motor is likely a touch lower than that.
Lowered tranny/motor mod:
I've been staring at the tranny and skid plate all morning thinking about how I can lower the tranny. I even started a new skid CAD design. I ended up settling on just modding the stock parts because without making a skid thats lower than stock with link locations that are also lower I couldn't get the tranny any lower.
So this happened (I used a fine toothed hand saw) a new tranny case is $12.99 BTW for those that are timid.
Then I took it to my belt sander for a little clean up and maybe another millimeter or so.
Then I carved up (and filed) the skid where the tranny mounts at an angle. This is because the outer most holes cant rally be thinned out any while the inner holes can be. I took off maybe 2mm here on the inner portion.
The motor plate and cover also need some trimming
You'll need to use shorter screws to mount the tranny after this, for the short screws I used 6mm and the longer screws were 12mm though 10mm might be safer (12mm is pushing it). I'm happy to report theres still a good amount of thread grab even with these shorter screws.
Whether you can go as low as I did may depend on what motor and pinion you use. I'm using a 14t pinion and a smaller 500 series motor.
So I think overall the tranny is 4.5-5mm lower now and I think since it was rotated a bit the motor is likely a touch lower than that.
Here's a couple I did.
I decided to go with SC10 Associated truck Bleeder screw caps and factory team blue shock bushings
Parts needed for the upgrade:
- bleeder caps are Associated #6443
- Factory team bushings #1781
- 4-40 x 3/4 Socket cap screws (4)
Works great and also no longer moves so much on the bushings.
I also an extra set of body stiffeners from the chrome kit so I used them on the outer edges of the body. Very solid now!
I decided to go with SC10 Associated truck Bleeder screw caps and factory team blue shock bushings
Parts needed for the upgrade:
- bleeder caps are Associated #6443
- Factory team bushings #1781
- 4-40 x 3/4 Socket cap screws (4)
Works great and also no longer moves so much on the bushings.
I also an extra set of body stiffeners from the chrome kit so I used them on the outer edges of the body. Very solid now!
svt923
I wanna be Dave
An old SCXII mod from long ago but works well for the Enduro.
If you strip your c-hub mounting screw holes or just can't get them to clamp tight enough, replace the M3x14 screw with a M3x16 screw and back it up with a M3 flat nut.
If you strip your c-hub mounting screw holes or just can't get them to clamp tight enough, replace the M3x14 screw with a M3x16 screw and back it up with a M3 flat nut.
Geeman640
Rock Stacker
I just copy pasted this from my build thread
Lowered tranny/motor mod:
I've been staring at the tranny and skid plate all morning thinking about how I can lower the tranny. I even started a new skid CAD design. I ended up settling on just modding the stock parts because without making a skid thats lower than stock with link locations that are also lower I couldn't get the tranny any lower.
So this happened (I used a fine toothed hand saw) a new tranny case is $12.99 BTW for those that are timid.
Then I took it to my belt sander for a little clean up and maybe another millimeter or so.
Then I carved up (and filed) the skid where the tranny mounts at an angle. This is because the outer most holes cant rally be thinned out any while the inner holes can be. I took off maybe 2mm here on the inner portion.
The motor plate and cover also need some trimming
You'll need to use shorter screws to mount the tranny after this, for the short screws I used 6mm and the longer screws were 12mm though 10mm might be safer (12mm is pushing it). I'm happy to report theres still a good amount of thread grab even with these shorter screws.
Whether you can go as low as I did may depend on what motor and pinion you use. I'm using a 14t pinion and a smaller 500 series motor.
So I think overall the tranny is 4.5-5mm lower now and I think since it was rotated a bit the motor is likely a touch lower than that.
This is a ballsy/awesome mod. Kudos to you! I need to go buy more tools so that I can do more mods such as this. I don't even have my dremel anymore. It got lost in the move.
Topher Builds
I wanna be Dave
soze
I wanna be Dave
Oh my! Time to order up a new body.
Old n ratty
Quarry Creeper
That’s great news! I need to order one since I totally screwed mine up trying to paint it!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Cesco
Quarry Creeper
If you like to add rear light buckets, this is a idea for you.
It is a 3D printed file meant for the Axial SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee body. It is a free file and it fits!
Just clear a bit of the paint, shoegoo them in and you are ready to add lights in the rear of the Enduro bed.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1992485
It is a 3D printed file meant for the Axial SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee body. It is a free file and it fits!
Just clear a bit of the paint, shoegoo them in and you are ready to add lights in the rear of the Enduro bed.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1992485
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
Nice find!If you like to add rear light buckets, this is a idea for you.
It is a 3D printed file meant for the Axial SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee body. It is a free file and it fits!
Just clear a bit of the paint, shoegoo them in and you are ready to add lights in the rear of the Enduro bed.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1992485
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
soze
I wanna be Dave
They've got a new Utility bed out for the Sendero.
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/element/parts/details/42131-ASC42131-sendero_utility_bed/
I like it!
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/element/parts/details/42131-ASC42131-sendero_utility_bed/
I like it!
Last edited:
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