Thanks!
OK, yes I know that spot thanks! Cool, I'll look for you at Crawl for a Cure, what truck are you driving?
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Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER
- Thread starter Natedog
- Start date
Thanks!
OK, yes I know that spot thanks! Cool, I'll look for you at Crawl for a Cure, what truck are you driving?
Big Bill
Rock Crawler
Well I was at the local Hobby shop yesterday (Jakes Performance Hobbies) actually had the Blazer they have on display in my hands. I like it, I want it and he carries alot of the Vaterra upgrades in the shop. OK now that being said I really want to get one (I am thinking tomorrow:mrgreen
but I would like to TRY and keep it pretty much stock. I know I will change the C hubs and sterring spindles to Alum. but would like to try and stop at that. The more I read about these rigs the more I am impressed, and want one. I will have my Axial Deadbolt (Yeah this was supposed to stay stockish too) at the Cure along with my Blazer"thumbsup" Hope to have the Blazer at Folsom this Sat also.
but I would like to TRY and keep it pretty much stock. I know I will change the C hubs and sterring spindles to Alum. but would like to try and stop at that. The more I read about these rigs the more I am impressed, and want one. I will have my Axial Deadbolt (Yeah this was supposed to stay stockish too) at the Cure along with my Blazer"thumbsup" Hope to have the Blazer at Folsom this Sat also.
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SMFtwstdHICK
Rock Crawler
Looking good Natedog..
My Bronco body is Finally here. Throwing some paint on it and hopefully finally be able to get in the dirt with this thing.
My Bronco body is Finally here. Throwing some paint on it and hopefully finally be able to get in the dirt with this thing.
Well I was at the local Hobby shop yesterday (Jakes Performance Hobbies) actually had the Blazer they have on display in my hands. I like it, I want it and he carries alot of the Vaterra upgrades in the shop. OK now that being said I really want to get one (I am thinking tomorrow:mrgreen
Cool, nice to hear that you got to actually handle one, our LHS RC Country has a great stock of spares and hop-ups for the Ascender. That was my goal too, and hence why it is still pretty much stock. It doesn't need much parts, just some fine tuning. I recommend spare steering servo on hand for when stocker fails or take it apart and install an output shaft bearing to extend it's life. I'm going to do this (but have spare servo too) just haven't got around to taking apart the stock servo. Eventually I'm going to install Vaterra's aluminum c-hubs, knuckles, and brake rotors because they are very high quality, look great and increase the durability of an already durable truck. Oh and two-speed, because I like to have some speed too. "thumbsup"
Cool, can't wait to see it! "thumbsup"
I ordered an Axial Wraith front swaybar to swap out with the rear that I'm using now. Looks like longer arms which should give little better geometry on the bar. "thumbsup"
Stock RTR Spektrum S605 servo has been taking a beating and the output shaft is getting wobbly, I looked everywhere online including Horizon Hobby's site and couldn't find a replacement bearing (stock is brass bushing) or the specs for it. So I took it apart, pulled the bushing out and put the calipers to it. Here's the careful measurements that I got:
ID: 0.235", 5.969mm
OD: 0.390", 9.90mm
Width: 0.086", 2.1844mm
Very odd size, this is definitely not standard, must be metric. Closest thing I could find is 6x10x2.5mm. Every servo output bearing I've ever seen is open caged bearing, meaning no rubber seals or metal shielding which add thickness and really don't matter inside the servo, there's a black rubber o-ring sealing the output shaft. I don't have one of these bearings in my stock and nobody local does either, I've got a bunch of old servos laying around and iirc still have an old dual ball bearings Airtronics which is also 23 spline as are Spektrum. Since I want this back together today, I"m going to pull apart old servos and see if I find something to fit there. Otherwise I'll order AvidRC 6x10x2.5mm...also thought about using 6x10x3mm, removing the seals and carefully sanding down thickness using 1000 grit wet sanding paper until it fits the servo case. I may have room in servo for 2.5mm width, but may not lol. I know this is cheapo servo and I have Hitec HS-7955TG spare, but I'm trying to see how long I can make "stock" last and keep it on a budget. The servo is advertised as waterproof, but the case has no other o-rings besides on the output shaft, the solder connections to wiring harness and pcb inside look like they are conformal coated for waterproof, but definitely not a high end servo.
Funny, Horizon Hobby kinda hides this servo on their site, go to the site and then search for "s605". MSRP $27.99, selling for $13.99 lol. I'd pay an extra dollar for the ten cent bearing they could've thrown in there instead of brass bushing.
https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMS605
Anybody?
ID: 0.235", 5.969mm
OD: 0.390", 9.90mm
Width: 0.086", 2.1844mm
Very odd size, this is definitely not standard, must be metric. Closest thing I could find is 6x10x2.5mm. Every servo output bearing I've ever seen is open caged bearing, meaning no rubber seals or metal shielding which add thickness and really don't matter inside the servo, there's a black rubber o-ring sealing the output shaft. I don't have one of these bearings in my stock and nobody local does either, I've got a bunch of old servos laying around and iirc still have an old dual ball bearings Airtronics which is also 23 spline as are Spektrum. Since I want this back together today, I"m going to pull apart old servos and see if I find something to fit there. Otherwise I'll order AvidRC 6x10x2.5mm...also thought about using 6x10x3mm, removing the seals and carefully sanding down thickness using 1000 grit wet sanding paper until it fits the servo case. I may have room in servo for 2.5mm width, but may not lol. I know this is cheapo servo and I have Hitec HS-7955TG spare, but I'm trying to see how long I can make "stock" last and keep it on a budget.
The servo is advertised as waterproof, but the case has no other o-rings besides on the output shaft, the solder connections to wiring harness and pcb inside look like they are conformal coated for waterproof, but definitely not a high end servo.Funny, Horizon Hobby kinda hides this servo on their site, go to the site and then search for "s605". MSRP $27.99, selling for $13.99 lol. I'd pay an extra dollar for the ten cent bearing they could've thrown in there instead of brass bushing.
https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMS605
Anybody?
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Opened up several old servos and a Hitec HS-925MG had an o-ring on the output shaft and a bearing that worked in the stock Vaterra S605 servo. BTW stock servo gears are all 100% steel. "thumbsup"
Bearing size in Hitec is
ID: 0.235", 9.90mm
OD: 0.390", 5.969mm
Width: 0.098" (0.012" wider than the brass bushing), 2.4892mm
I cleaned and lubed all the gears, shafts and o-ring, and then had to gently file the servo output shaft (with very fine file) where the splines meet the non-splined smooth shaft. The bearing was sliding on and would stop at base of splines, just had to clean it up a tiny bit and then the bearing pressed all the way on. When I squeezed the servo case back togehter and put the four screws in, I had to really give it a good squeeze to get the last tiny bit and then it went right together. Felt like it snapped together and the bearing and o-ring seated right place....or it cracked the inside of the servo case lol! This really tightened up the servo shaft, how it should have been from the factory! Tested and working great, doesn't seem to be binding or getting hot, but we'll see if the magic comes out with extended use.
I re-attached the servo to the chassis with a pair of FullForce RC 1/10 scale servo clamps and four 3x14mm buttonhead screws. Stock was 3x10 buttonheads and flat washers. I've been using these servo clamps for years and they work great and come in silver or blue, Part No: FF023. Six clamps and twelve buttonhead machine screws for $12.
http://www.fullforcerc.com/FF023
Pics to come.
Bearing size in Hitec is
ID: 0.235", 9.90mm
OD: 0.390", 5.969mm
Width: 0.098" (0.012" wider than the brass bushing), 2.4892mm
I cleaned and lubed all the gears, shafts and o-ring, and then had to gently file the servo output shaft (with very fine file) where the splines meet the non-splined smooth shaft. The bearing was sliding on and would stop at base of splines, just had to clean it up a tiny bit and then the bearing pressed all the way on. When I squeezed the servo case back togehter and put the four screws in, I had to really give it a good squeeze to get the last tiny bit and then it went right together. Felt like it snapped together and the bearing and o-ring seated right place....or it cracked the inside of the servo case lol! This really tightened up the servo shaft, how it should have been from the factory! Tested and working great, doesn't seem to be binding or getting hot, but we'll see if the magic comes out with extended use.
I re-attached the servo to the chassis with a pair of FullForce RC 1/10 scale servo clamps and four 3x14mm buttonhead screws. Stock was 3x10 buttonheads and flat washers. I've been using these servo clamps for years and they work great and come in silver or blue, Part No: FF023. Six clamps and twelve buttonhead machine screws for $12.
http://www.fullforcerc.com/FF023
Pics to come.
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Stock S605 servo with Hitec output shaft bearig, fresh ParkTool Polylube 1000 grease, http://www.parktool.com/product/polylube-1000-lubricant-tube-ppl-1 and ready to assemble! O-ring is on output shaft just above bearing.
EDIT:
The bearing to replace servo output shaft bushing is............ AvidRC MR106 bearing, 6x10x2.5mm open cage!
http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bearings/689/6x10x25-Open-MR106-bearings.html
EDIT:
The bearing to replace servo output shaft bushing is............ AvidRC MR106 bearing, 6x10x2.5mm open cage!
http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bearings/689/6x10x25-Open-MR106-bearings.html
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RCompensated21
Newbie
I'm new to crawling and not knowing what I was getting other than thinking the blazer looks sweet, it seems to lean a lot. Is that due to the shocks it comes with or am I doing something wrong with it?
That is due to the low numerical axle ratio that gives us the sweet scale differential pumpkins and axles. The best cures seem to be...in no particular order...
DinkyRC cantilver rear shock kit (for the SCX10) mounted outboard of the frame rails (not inboard),
Outboarding the rear shocks and lower links,
And my favorite so far rear swaybar using the softest bar in the kit (Axial Wraith front swaybar, don't buy the Hot Racing one, get the Axial brand part number AX30781)
These are all easy fixes.
DinkyRC cantilver rear shock kit (for the SCX10) mounted outboard of the frame rails (not inboard),
Outboarding the rear shocks and lower links,
And my favorite so far rear swaybar using the softest bar in the kit (Axial Wraith front swaybar, don't buy the Hot Racing one, get the Axial brand part number AX30781)
These are all easy fixes.
The Axial Wraith Front Swaybar Set (part number AX30781) is what you need for rear Ascender swaybar. Axial arms use 3x5mm setscrews to attach to the bar and these get full thread engagement in the aluminum arms for less chance of stripping out the holes, unlike HR that get much less thread engagement. Recived mine yesterday, installed, tested and works much better.
Axial rear swaybar is 90mm long, front is 95mm long, provides better alignment of the end links and allows bit more flex.
Arms on rear bar are 35mm, front arm set is 45mm long, provides better alignment of end links and allows bit more flex.
My previous end links were 48mm eye to eye, they are now 40mm.
I was using 5mm thick Axial anodized aluminum spacers on link end of arms to straighten the endlinks so they are more upright, now with wider bar and shorter end links, I'm using 3mm thick spacers.
Bought GCM Racing Ascender Rear Axle Truss for testing too!
Dug through parts pin to find some 10mm plastic spacers to internally limit shocks, found some 7mm, 6mm, 5mm and some little thin 1mm spacers, but have not done anything with them yet.
Debating on just how much to limit the shocks....?
Axial rear swaybar is 90mm long, front is 95mm long, provides better alignment of the end links and allows bit more flex.
Arms on rear bar are 35mm, front arm set is 45mm long, provides better alignment of end links and allows bit more flex.
My previous end links were 48mm eye to eye, they are now 40mm.
I was using 5mm thick Axial anodized aluminum spacers on link end of arms to straighten the endlinks so they are more upright, now with wider bar and shorter end links, I'm using 3mm thick spacers.
Bought GCM Racing Ascender Rear Axle Truss for testing too!
Dug through parts pin to find some 10mm plastic spacers to internally limit shocks, found some 7mm, 6mm, 5mm and some little thin 1mm spacers, but have not done anything with them yet.
Debating on just how much to limit the shocks....?
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I've been storing my lipos in an airtight steel ammo box, charging while attended on concrete or metal plate, but decided to upgrade safety and provide more isolation betwween batteries during storage. Ordered several Lithium Polymer Charge Pack 18x22cm Sack (PRODUCT ID: LPGUARD18x22), these are very nice quality, lined bags with good velcro!
Lithium Polymer Charge Pack 18x22cm Sack
ordered a gaggle of these, one for each lipo and couple spares TrackStar Fireproof Lipo Storage Case (105 x 55 x 30mm) (PRODUCT ID: 9386000010-0), again very nice quality, lined, with double velcro flap closure. These fit both my 2s shorty hardcase and 3S 2200mah HD soft lipos.
HobbyKing Page not found.
Three shorty hardcase 2S lipos in the smaller individual bags fit in one of the larger bags. Three 3S 2200mah HD lipos in the smaller individual bags will also fit in one of the larger bags. I can put a couple of the larger bags in my Camelbak pack while out crawling. Think I can fit one more of these bags with batteries in the ammo can, bag size is perfect here! Keep my 6 battery charging board in there too!
IMG_0639
IMG_0640
Bought several more 2S shorty hardcase lipos this time from SMC, Factory Spec 7.4V Shorty 4400mAh 60C Inboard (Product Code: 4460-2S2P) I've had good luck with Turnigys but read lots of mixed reviews on their shorties which are only available in Nano-tech, so I went with SMC (Superior Matching Concepts) since most reviews (and friends) have reported good resutls with them!
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_91&product_id=121
Decided to limit suspension down travel 9mm the same amount of shock preload adjustment left when it was adjusted so that at full droop the springs were still fully seated on the shocks.
Used two packs of 3mm id Rear Shock Downstops, three of the thickest black spacers per shock under the pistons, 3mm each for total of 9mm per shock.
Adjusted spring preload so that the collars bottom against shock caps and on the bench it looks perfect! Pic to come.
Aluminum mount for front rock light strip (cut from piece of my old TLT chassis lol), need to tidy wiring little more and get more pics with leds.
IMG_0641
Lithium Polymer Charge Pack 18x22cm Sack
ordered a gaggle of these, one for each lipo and couple spares TrackStar Fireproof Lipo Storage Case (105 x 55 x 30mm) (PRODUCT ID: 9386000010-0), again very nice quality, lined, with double velcro flap closure. These fit both my 2s shorty hardcase and 3S 2200mah HD soft lipos.
HobbyKing Page not found.
Three shorty hardcase 2S lipos in the smaller individual bags fit in one of the larger bags. Three 3S 2200mah HD lipos in the smaller individual bags will also fit in one of the larger bags. I can put a couple of the larger bags in my Camelbak pack while out crawling. Think I can fit one more of these bags with batteries in the ammo can, bag size is perfect here! Keep my 6 battery charging board in there too!
IMG_0639 IMG_0640 Bought several more 2S shorty hardcase lipos this time from SMC, Factory Spec 7.4V Shorty 4400mAh 60C Inboard (Product Code: 4460-2S2P) I've had good luck with Turnigys but read lots of mixed reviews on their shorties which are only available in Nano-tech, so I went with SMC (Superior Matching Concepts) since most reviews (and friends) have reported good resutls with them!
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_91&product_id=121
Decided to limit suspension down travel 9mm the same amount of shock preload adjustment left when it was adjusted so that at full droop the springs were still fully seated on the shocks.
Used two packs of 3mm id Rear Shock Downstops, three of the thickest black spacers per shock under the pistons, 3mm each for total of 9mm per shock.
Adjusted spring preload so that the collars bottom against shock caps and on the bench it looks perfect! Pic to come.
Aluminum mount for front rock light strip (cut from piece of my old TLT chassis lol), need to tidy wiring little more and get more pics with leds.
IMG_0641
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Johnnysplits
I wanna be Dave
Damn man that's a lot of protection for those batteries! Those are batteries and not bricks of C4 right? lol
BrotherAndySLB
Pebble Pounder
Hows the GCM Rear axle truss working out?
Big Bill
Rock Crawler
I used to think the same thing, until I saw one blow/flame up. Sounded like a Rose Bud on a torch setup, the guys car never had a chance:shock:
BrotherAndySLB
Pebble Pounder
While charging one evening I had one swell up and started smoking. Burnt a spot under it. Tossed the battery outside and didn't touch it till the next day.
Better safe than sorry and it helps isolate batteries to reduce potential loss.
I haven't had time to test it yet, did some changes such as 9mm internal shock limiters and need to try that first. One change at a time to isolate results. "thumbsup"
Yes like torch.
Better safe than sorry and good thing you were there!
Johnnysplits
I wanna be Dave
Idk. I've been using lipo's since '08 and never had an issue that I didn't see coming. The only thing I've ever seen that would do a lipo in, is being stored in a high ambient temp garage, a shit charger, severe impact, and driving a nail through it. Being that I'm moving into a new apartment soon that has no garage and will have to keep the batteries indoors, I'll have to get a fireproof box juuuust in case.
Woot Woot just got home from Crawl For A Cure 2015, had a great time seeing peeps again and meeting new RCC'ers! Thanks to all sponsors and those who set up a great course with challenges for all skills and rigs and to all the generous donors for swag and prizes!
Ascender did great and is really getting dialed in now.
Bigbill nice to meet you in person and I had a great time crawling together! Pics after I sort through all of them.
Ascender did great and is really getting dialed in now.
Bigbill nice to meet you in person and I had a great time crawling together! Pics after I sort through all of them.
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Big Bill
Rock Crawler
Same on this end Nate, to say your Blazer is "Dialed In" is an understatement. Your rig surprised and amazed me more than a few times yesterday, it made a few bonus gates that my Axial failed on. Great running the course with you"thumbsup"
Agreed and cool, just in case. "thumbsup"
Thanks, yes it kept surprising me pulling lines and two bonus gates! "thumbsup"8)
#CrawlForACure2015
Night before hurry up and finish stuff...like lights wiring. Headlights worked great, rock lights were useless, forgot that I tested LEDs on pack voltage but I'm running them through the receiver.
IMG_0642 
IMG_0643 Nice tie-wrap anchors for headlight wiring from Fry's Electronics.
IMG_0644 The day we've all been waiting for, it started out chilly, went to wish I had my shorts (peeling off wool base layer, gloves, etc.), then back to glad I didn't change to shorts and where's my jacket! Rain held off until day after and really was a perfectly beautiful crawl day in the mountains! There was plenty of fresh hot coffee and boxes of doughnuts at check-in!
IMG_0645
IMG_0646 
IMG_0648 
IMG_0647
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