Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[mgputer]

Full compression.

Full droop travel.

Some brackets I started but didn't finish to connect cut up shock tower to frame. Unfortunately it didn't come out too well because I couldn't twist them tight enough to properly clear the frame rails and it was bowing out the shock tower. I had all kinds of scrap servo mounts, angle, box aluminum, plastic pieces trying to brainstorm what to use. Due to my lowered receiver box, I couldn't drill and bolt it to that because it would penetrate the box where the lid screws go. A piece of flexible plastic handle from an old large art portfolio from school serves well once again, just cut the width down to 1/4" and used a leather punch to make screw holes!

Yes, the rear most third hole is drilled an tapped into the frame rail. It all clears the bed/cage, but I want to cut the body mounts off the rear towers for cleaner look and get some flex room for the cage when it goes for a tumble so that it's not bashing the cage up against the rear towers.

Ride height without battery.

Ready to rock n roll!

Looks good. I was going to do the same thing with my spare front shock towers but I couldn't find it. I need to clean house and get rid of a few things but as soon as you do you need it! Never know what you can use something for!

Keep us informed how your 3 link works so I can copy your idea when you get it right! [emoji23]

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[Natedog]

Thanks, yes I have the same problem, been working on getting all Ascender stuff in one area, other crawler in another, etc. Like the art portfolio handle that tore off years ago and I put it away thinking what a nice heavy duty, yet flexible plastic it was. :ror:

Of course and this can all be done with stock Ascender parts, which is a nice option or you can step up to some heavy Codyboy axle housings too.

 

[DMS70]

Thanks, yes I have the same problem, been working on getting all Ascender stuff in one area, TRX-4 in another, etc. Like the art portfolio handle that tore off years ago and I put it away thinking what a nice heavy duty, yet flexible plastic it was. :ror:

Of course and this can all be done with stock Ascender parts, which is a nice option or you can step up to some heavy Codyboy axle housings too.

When you get a chance could you post a pic from underneath?
Thanks, and it looks great!

 

[Natedog]

Yes and thanks.

 

[M1tch]

Good job Nate (and Codyboy and Dlux). I'm still trying to figure out how the panhard reduces torque twist. Maybe my brain is getting older than I really am. Haven't had much time with my trucks recently due to work and real life, but am looking at this setup with interest.

 

[fyrstormer]

I admit I haven't been doing a good job of keeping track of your current goals with this build. What are you trying to accomplish at this point?

 

[CM9000]

the torque twist dilemma we have with these axles.

but we need the panhard bar level with the ground at half compression. the upper link to be straight.

im working on a gearing theory to assist with this setup. but I might be getting to much od to the front.
hopefully we are not going in the wrong direction.

 

[Natedog]

Good job Nate (and Codyboy and Dlux). I'm still trying to figure out how the panhard reduces torque twist. Maybe my brain is getting older than I really am. Haven't had much time with my trucks recently due to work and real life, but am looking at this setup with interest.

Thanks, the concept makes sense but hard to visualize all the motions and forces at work sometimes, building it and testing really helps.

I admit I haven't been doing a good job of keeping track of your current goals with this build. What are you trying to accomplish at this point?

K5 Va'Blazer crawls great, but I'm trying to improve the K10 without use of a swaybar and it's getting better with most every mod.

the torque twist dilemma we have with these axles.

but we need the panhard bar level with the ground at half compression. the upper link to be straight.

im working on a gearing theory to assist with this setup. but I might be getting to much od to the front.
hopefully we are not going in the wrong direction.

Yes.

Agreed, I'm working on that, been through many revisions of it before the one I posted the picture. Trimmed rear shock tower body mounts at Pro-Line By The Fire, still need to final smooth the cuts with my Dremel sanding drum.

I've seen your thread and like what your doing, keep up the good work! Too much OD or UD will make it crawl a little funny especially if it's more of a scale rig, imo 10-15% is plenty. I think we're going in the proper direction, and our Ascenders Assembled last week in the desert to prove it and plan the next round of mods and testing. "thumbsup"

 

[CM9000]

I've seen your thread and like what your doing, keep up the good work! Too much OD or UD will make it crawl a little funny especially if it's more of a scale rig, imo 10-15% is plenty. I think we're going in the proper direction, and our Ascenders Assembled last week in the desert to prove it and plan the next round of mods and testing. "thumbsup"

I have a little black magic trick up my sleeve to get rid of problems with 20% plus ud/od. but first before that trick is added ill test the rig as is.

awesome pics by the way. looks like a good spot. anybody have any footage I can watch? I need my video fix. lol

 

[Natedog]

When you get a chance could you post a pic from underneath?
Thanks, and it looks great!

Sorry it took couple days, was at Pro-Line By The Fire, will this work?

IMG_2480 by Nathan C, on Flickr

I have a little black magic trick up my sleeve to get rid of problems with 20% plus ud/od. but first before that trick is added ill test the rig as is.

awesome pics by the way. looks like a good spot. anybody have any footage I can watch? I need my video fix. lol

Transfer case should be sweet. Always test after one change at a time to be sure. "thumbsup"

Thanks, yes it is, no video at the moment.

Trimmed about 3/8" off each end of front bumper, just enough to help with angled climbs. CA glued a small piece of the end back into the bumper and then a couple drops of E6000 inside the bumper to hold it in case the CA breaks loose.

IMG_2481 by Nathan C, on Flickr

IMG_2482 by Nathan C, on Flickr

 

[2mtech]

Sorry it took couple days, was at Pro-Line By The Fire, will this work?

IMG_2480 by Nathan C, on Flickr




Transfer case should be sweet. Always test after one change at a time to be sure. "thumbsup"

Thanks, yes it is, no video at the moment.

Trimmed about 3/8" off each end of front bumper, just enough to help with angled climbs. CA glued a small piece of the end back into the bumper and then a couple drops of E6000 inside the bumper to hold it in case the CA breaks loose.

IMG_2481 by Nathan C, on Flickr

IMG_2482 by Nathan C, on Flickr

Do you ever drive this shelf queen, Nate? :lmao:

 

[JatoTheRipper]

That is one well-used old Chevy! Nice!

 

[DMS70]

Thanks Nate!

 

[Natedog]

You're welcome, any other pictures you need?

 

[new2rocks]

Thanks for the shirts, Nate! Roo looooves his!

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[Yeti.stealth]

I'm really digging the yellow you painted your K10 Nate, it looks pretty damn good on the rocks and amongst the other trucks, glad to see everything coming together with all the little tweaks going on.

Looks like it's been taking a bit of a beating too!

 

[DMS70]

You're welcome, any other pictures you need?

Um, well perhaps one more most recent pic of the front steering set up. I have top mounted the servo, and made a new tie rod and drag link using the Traxxas links and ends you recommended. Ran it today and it seemed as though it wasn’t steering as far in one direction. Right I think, but I have to get it on the bench and have a good look. I was having too much fun on the rock course at my lhs today to care!

 

[Natedog]

Thanks for the shirts, Nate! Roo looooves his!

You're welcome and glad he loves it!

I'm really digging the yellow you painted your K10 Nate, it looks pretty damn good on the rocks and amongst the other trucks, glad to see everything coming together with all the little tweaks going on.

Looks like it's been taking a bit of a beating too!

Thanks, it's Tamiya PS-19 Camel Yellow spray cans, I wanted yellow like the RTR but with a twist. Yes, all the little tweaks are adding up to a very capable, stable and predictable crawler.

Um, well perhaps one more most recent pic of the front steering set up. I have top mounted the servo, and made a new tie rod and drag link using the Traxxas links and ends you recommended. Ran it today and it seemed as though it wasn’t steering as far in one direction. Right I think, but I have to get it on the bench and have a good look. I was having too much fun on the rock course at my lhs today to care!

Page 59, post #1169 is my current steering setup. I've found with this configuration the servo horn should be slightly off center to the right side of the truck (or to your left when viewed from below) when both front wheels are pointing straight ahead, makes it easier to get full steering in both directions.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/538944-natedogs-vaterra-ascender-59.html


Straightened out my rear upper fore/aft link most of the way, got an idea to get it perfectly straight.

IMG_2484 by Nathan C, on Flickr

IMG_2485 by Nathan C, on Flickr

 

[CODYBOY]

Good job Nate, it will be interesting to see how the change helps? "thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[DMS70]

I have my steering set up just like yours, however that pic you referenced was your Blazer, and I’m talking about my K10. Only difference I guess is servo sideways. I have both Ascenders. Anyway, on the bench, by eye, I appear to have equal steering left and right. However on the ground the steering radius is noticeably tighter full turn left vs full turn right. Any ideas?