Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[Natedog]

I got a tiny bit of clearance from using a skinny nut (not a nylock) and grinding down the bolt to be just long enough, and I spaced out the shock a good deal so the clearance looks even better.

I also cut down the plastic ball ends so there was no flare left just the main ball. Since the sway bar doesn't have much if any twist i think its fine to lose the flare on the ball ends.

I used Axial thin locknut, shortest stack height steel balls with the plastic endlinks, clearance enough and no binding. Your setup gives even more clearance and as you said the side to side twist of the ball ends is not needed in this situation."thumbsup"

During my K10 re-work I decided to upgrade steering links on the Va'Blazer and found out that WB4 cannot be setup with the servo on top of the mounts, because the servo horn will hit the frame when steering left. Nothing can be done about it the way the frame rails start to bend down right there. I had already spent a couple hours cutting and making it all fit, just can't steer in this configuration so I put the servo back for now and will check it again later how to make it work with servo under the mount in factory spot or maybe use sideways servo mounts from shorter WB to make it work. Here's pics of what I tried, had to cut up my mount and use one shorter screw through shock tower to crossbrace/servo mount on left side. :ror:"thumbsup"

Edit: Just measured and the stock floating battery tray will fit again, but might need to cut off the raised cross piece at front of tray to clear the steering servo. Might cut it off anyways, don't need it and it's weight up higher than the axle center line. I've already lowered the rear of the tray same amount as Ben did (see Itali83 thread here in Ascender section) starting here in his Blazer thread: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/548229-my-baby-blazer-10.html

The Blazer gets driven really hard and I broke another set of front body mount posts, so I used these. The VTR23006 are Vaterra road car Body Post Set (4 per pack. These posts fit all the Vaterra V-100 chassis road cars.
http://www.vaterrarc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=VTR230006

I cut the posts shorter so just long enough, then drilled the one hole that the mounting screwpin goes through to 0.078" and then wiggled the bit around slightly, nice light press fit, installed and should last longer with all the holes being smaller size, therefore more material to resist breakage. "thumbsup"

After messing about with the Blazer, back to work on the K10. All electronics are in the receiver fuel cell box!

Dremelled outside of front lower links to get that last couple millimeters of up travel where they were contacting the frame, still plenty of metal left for strength."thumbsup"

Edit: Later found I needed to Dremel out lower down the sides of the links and a little more fore and aft of what I did in this picture.

 

[Yeti.stealth]

Man those Vaterra alloy links look good! I gotta get me a set one day.

good job on the rest of the K10 Nate! 3s shorty pack, 550 can motor, everything that can be lowered is lowered, it will be a kick ass crawler!

 

[Natedog]

Thanks mate, they are heavy duty for sure and the plastic ends fit down inside about 3mm at both ends to resist bending the setscrews that hold them on. 8)

Actually that's a bit shorter and about 3/8" narrower than shorty pack, it's Protek LIHV 3500mah 3S pack, great packs.

 

[Natedog]

I've wanted a bit more height in my rx box for all the wires and stuff, started milling some 1/4" delrin on the drillpress but it's kinda grabby on the sharp bit and so I made it out of styrene. It keys into the box just like stock lid and then the lid keys into it. Needed longer screws with the spacer so I used some old AE aluminum 4-40 screws from my RC10 Team Car parts, threads and head are almost exact same size as the metric screws that retain the lid and little less weight up high.

Had to cut up my battery tray a bit more up front than in this picture to make room for the panhard bar on full compression, because of the longer 550 motor. I've lowered the rear of the battery tray about 10mm, stock link at front to axle due to time limitations, will shorten it too for next time. Also put 10mm or so bumper spacer between link mount on bottom of tray to line up with the link mount on front axle, works great! Tuned the springs a little more and crawls very well now, really happy with it and going to tune the springs a bit more and make the shock collar stops that Rich made too.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/595450-shock-setup-tip-reducing-torque-twist.html

Rockhugger trucks enjoying the chilly wind. It's right side up on pc and phone, RCC editor won't let me rotate it, wth? :ror:

 

[Natedog]

Hi Nate, I have been using the 1080 in a rally car it works great. I have be wanting to try it in a scaler, it has so many adjustments. I really think it would work well in a trail rig."thumbsup"

Hey Bill, realized I didn't really reply to your post, yes the more I run and use the adjusting box with this ESC, it's badass! "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Shock collars as per Rich Trujillo's mod, thanks Rich! Made them by sanding off the ridges on outside of spare shock adjuster collars. As the shocks compress, the floating spacer between the upper and lower springs contacts the collar stopping the action of the short softer spring and forcing the stiffer lower spring into action. Even though the RTR (and kit) upper and lower springs are silver/medium, the lower long spring is a stiffer rate spring, therefore these force the two-stage progressive setup into action! Works great on the bench and easy to adjust the amount of travel where the longer firmer spring is forced to do the work.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/595450-shock-setup-tip-reducing-torque-twist.html

After test crawling the other day and bench testing, I've put the front shocks back inboard to get little more flex back that I was missing. Current spring setup is silver/silver stock springs on all four shocks, collars only on the rear atm. I left the collars full height and screwed them on from the bottom of the shocks and gently snugged up against the main aluminum spring preload adjuster. For my truck and driving style, this is perfect, truck sits with lower arms just above parallel to the bench, I'm getting little more flex than with my previous setup, and the lower stiff springs are being forced to do work, love it! More tuning to come.

K10 had a big fall and tumble last time out, I used my foot to catch it and ended up kicking my home-made HiLift into two pieces, time for more Bondene and touch up paint pen. :ror:

 

[Richterat83]

Thread sub to go through 1147 posts later since nearly every Ascender thread tells me to listen to what Natedog says! Ordered an Ascender kit

 

[Natedog]

Thread sub to go through 1147 posts later since nearly every Ascender thread tells me to listen to what Natedog says! Ordered an Ascender kit

Thanks and congratulations on your new Ascender, been following your thread too, love seeing everyone's creativity here!

1:1 windshield washer fluid bottle and lexan scissors. Both sides are done, only showing one in the pictures, not sure if any paint will adhere even with scuffing the plastic. I've got some Glad brand cheap storage containers on my list as possible replacents. I like to see the shock towers through the wheel opening, just like 1:1. Attached only by the upper shock tower cross brace (hole is just large enough to fit over aluminum brace, not pinched between tower and brace) and body mount post, cut bottom edge to sit on top of frame rail, works great but will probably add dab of E6000 at front and rear to keep it from rattling against the frame.

 

[Browneye]

Fluid bottle fender liners

Those are interesting. :shock:

 

[fyrstormer]

I bet truck bedliner will stick to it, though you might need to precoat it with adhesion promoter first.

I don't know what E6000 is, but Shoe Goo would work well and can be peeled off in the future.

 

[CODYBOY]

I bet truck bedliner will stick to it, though you might need to precoat it with adhesion promoter first.

I don't know what E6000 is, but Shoe Goo would work well and can be peeled off in the future.

There you go Nate, now you have two of us that think bedliner will work. ;-)8)
Ernie

 

[PoorManRC]

WOW Nate!!!! One of these days I'm going to have to go through ALL 1152 of these posts! :shock: I might Learn something!! ;-)
I ALREADY know that I WISH I had an Ascender.... You know that. I've wanted one since they were first released. Someday right?
But Wow Brother! You are a wealth of knowledge - and you've got several VERY talented and generous friends!!
Lucky guy!

 

[fyrstormer]

For some reason I read that as "You've got several very talented and gorgeous friends". I was slightly flattered and very confused.

 

[JohnnyAnguish]

Plasti Dip worked really well on the off-brand Cool Whip containers I used on my SCX-10II. I scuffed them up a bit and then sprayed it on.

 

[Browneye]

For painting polyethylene....my guess is Krylon Fusion will work the best - it's a plastic dye. Scrub with dishsoap and a scotchbrite like the lexan.
I would do some paint testing before going to the trouble to prep and paint them, only to have it just flake off.

This site might provide some value on painting this type of plastic: Plastic Primer » Rustoleum Spray Paint » www.rustoleumspraypaint.com
Rustoleum says 'plastic primer'.

 

[Natedog]

Those are interesting. :shock:

Thanks! "thumbsup"

I bet truck bedliner will stick to it, though you might need to precoat it with adhesion promoter first.

I don't know what E6000 is, but Shoe Goo would work well and can be peeled off in the future.

Probably. E6000 is similar to ShoeGoo (doesn't like long-term sun exposure) but much thinner consistency. "thumbsup"

There you go Nate, now you have two of us that think bedliner will work. ;-)8)
Ernie

"thumbsup"

WOW Nate!!!! One of these days I'm going to have to go through ALL 1152 of these posts! :shock: I might Learn something!! ;-)
I ALREADY know that I WISH I had an Ascender.... You know that. I've wanted one since they were first released. Someday right?
But Wow Brother! You are a wealth of knowledge - and you've got several VERY talented and generous friends!!
Lucky guy!

Thanks! "thumbsup"

For some reason I read that as "You've got several very talented and gorgeous friends". I was slightly flattered and very confused.

Thanks! :ror:"thumbsup"

Plasti Dip worked really well on the off-brand Cool Whip containers I used on my SCX-10II. I scuffed them up a bit and then sprayed it on.

Thanks, I hadn't considered that, but definitely scuffed it well first! "thumbsup"

For painting polyethylene....my guess is Krylon Fusion will work the best - it's a plastic dye. Scrub with dishsoap and a scotchbrite like the lexan.
I would do some paint testing before going to the trouble to prep and paint them, only to have it just flake off.

Thanks, definitely a good choice as I've used it before with great success on other plastics, Krylon Fusion is good stuff! Yes, I washed with hot water, dish soap, scrubbed well, and then scuffed before painting.

I decided to paint the fenders inside and out, since lexan paint is light weight and in case some flakes, so I heavily scuff sanded both sides of them. During a
late night fender finishing session, thought I had a good can of black spray paint, but found it was just dribble and as Rockhugger put it, ended up with a Dennis the Menace style painting session lol. I warmed both cans in hot water, warmed the garage and went to spray, got a couple low pressure spurts of paint that splattered out on my fenders but that was it. Oh crap, there went my paint job, so I quickly used my fingers to spread the blobs of paint on the fenders before they dried! There was no turning back at this point, so I grabbed the spring loaded center punch and used it on the bottom edge of the can side. There was almost zero pressure left in the can and the bottom edge ime is the best place to pour the little remaining paint out and brush it on. However, it had enough pressure to spurt paint out all over my hands and garage floor, but I kept the punch seated in the hole so that it didn't blow out too quickly, then poured the paint on the fenders and literally finger-painted inside and out of my fenders in what turned out to be a nice light fairly even coat. Clean up required a little acetone and a couple rags. Fenders turned out very nicely and the paint is holding after some crawling abuse, so nice to keep all the sand and dirt out of the chassis! :lmao::lmao::lmao:"thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Rockhugger and I did more testing, removed rear swaybar, mounted upper shocks with Axial AXA1356 Silicone Shock Bushing 7.5x8mm
Axial Racing - Silicone Shock Bushing 7.5x8mm (6pcs)

Currently all four shocks are back to stock locations, didn't like how the outboarded shocks were limiting flex too much and this hindered climbing an obstacle at an angle (ie steep step up climbs), going back to RULR style rear upper link mounts about 22mm above stock to mostly eliminate TT, Rich's shock collar mod to help TT too. I had to move rear shocks back to stock upper mounts due to interference no matter what I did. This leans rear shocks forward at the tops a little, stiffer springs as needed will help offset this. I ground the heck out of one rear shock tower to clearance for the upper mount and preload adjuster, but during flex the shocks hit the towers, would need to move the towers back about 10mm to clear, might do this later, more tuning first though. All four shocks preload adjusters just touching springs so no freeplay, all springs stock medium except rear lowers are firm, shock collars bottomed against preload adjusters. It was crawling very well the other day!

 

[wyd]

Your info for the tire foams was perfect. Those molded Prolines in my Hyrax tires was awesome. They worked fantastic. Thanks again for the recommending those molded PL tire inserts. Amazing how smooth they where and how I could climb anything my buddies TRX4 could do and actually did some that he couldn't. My Ascender went up steep rocks that I could never would think it could go up. "thumbsup"

 

[CT Yankee]

Now that I have my Ascender Ford F-100, I am going to have to go through this entire thread for some ideas and tips. "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Your info for the tire foams was perfect. Those molded Prolines in my Hyrax tires was awesome. They worked fantastic. Thanks again for the recommending those molded PL tire inserts. Amazing how smooth they where and how I could climb anything my buddies TRX4 could do and actually did some that he couldn't. My Ascender went up steep rocks that I could never would think it could go up. "thumbsup"

Good to hear and glad to help, you're welcome! Very satisfying to crawl lines that were not do-able previously! "thumbsup"

Now that I have my Ascender Ford F-100, I am going to have to go through this entire thread for some ideas and tips. "thumbsup"

Congratulations on your new F100, please ask or post comments if you're wondering about anything else! "thumbsup"

I had a pm asking about suspension setup, I answered them and am posting here to clarify for everyone. My Blazer swaybar setup is working very well and K10 was doing well, but I want to eliminate my swaybars. The swaybars work well, but do limit flex more than I want sometimes. I prefer to raise the front of the rear upper link mounts at the frame mount, this allows more natural suspension movement and flex while controlling the torque twist. PM userid TODBLDZ here on RCCrawler, that's where I bought my aluminum RULR plates for my Ascender. The best rear upper link mounting hole (for me) is the middle (from top to bottom) and front or one back from the most forward hole. These provide me with the best pinion angles, I shortened my upper links about 5-6mm, check your pinion angle through the range of axle movement. The pinion should not go over center and flex in the opposite direction, if that makes sense.

DOUBLE-DZS-RC RULR info starts on page 41, here:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/538944-natedogs-vaterra-ascender-41.html