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Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER
- Thread starter Natedog
- Start date
It puts a lot of excess strain on the driveshaft and pinion bearings.
wyd
Rock Crawler
Natedog what rear body mounts do you use? I checked out the ones for the original Bronco body and they are like 25 bucks but I found some other Vatarra mounts but they say for the Vaterra touring car but look like they would work and and are only like 6.99. Not sure I will change the body but was just something I was looking into just incase I wanted to.
I’ve replaced the front posts as they break with VTR230006 for Vaterra road car. Get desired body height, trim off excess post length, drill hole slightly larger only for the retaining screw pins, making them so the pin press in little snug and then screw in to retain the post as usual.
Axial n00b
Newbie
Hey Natedog, I seen that you have internally limited the shocks, and I didn't quite get it. What exactly do the limiters do besides limiting downtravel ?
They limit shock travel and therefore down travel. Blazer has 9mm internal limits and K10 has iirc 5mm. Some people and setups prefer more travel, but my Blazer is super hooked up and very predictable! K10 is working very well and still getting fine tuned but with a different approach and setup. 
Finally got around to converting the steering on my WB4 Blazer! Servo went back under the mounts like stock, swapped to Hudy low profile reverse offset servo horn with buttonhead 2.6mm screw securing it to the servo, more steering authority in binds and tie-rod clears the horn on full compression.
Moved front and rear bumpers out because it's a large truck and looks better this way. I don't recommend trimming the last bit of body under the grill like I did, after hard use it cracked all the way up the front corner next to headlights. I've cleaned it up and am using a some rubber specialized CA glue and then E6000 to put it back together, hope it lasts.
IMG_2080 by Nathan C, on Flickr
IMG_2081 by Nathan C, on Flickr
Moved front and rear bumpers out because it's a large truck and looks better this way. I don't recommend trimming the last bit of body under the grill like I did, after hard use it cracked all the way up the front corner next to headlights. I've cleaned it up and am using a some rubber specialized CA glue and then E6000 to put it back together, hope it lasts.
IMG_2080 by Nathan C, on FlickrIMG_2081 by Nathan C, on Flickr
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2mtech
RCC Addict
How many miles does this rig have on the odometer now? Roll it over yet? :shock:
I've not tracked the miles, maybe I should have but I was too busy having fun and remembering to take some pictures. I think it's rolled back to zero once or twice. :ror: Still running strong and not much broken parts.
Excellent, a complete steering fix, guaranteed not to hit. Could you post the measurements for the exposed amount of the drag link? I need to get more travel for the front of the K10...
Puh-leeze?
"thumbsup"
Oh, and speaking of cracking bodies... I dropped my front posts as low as I could, so the bottom edge of the grille was resting on my WertyMade bumper, and on a tumble that impacted the hood... It cracked my grille. To be expected, as my grille slats were all cut out, making the whole thing more delicate. No big deal, the wire mesh that I put in place of the slats is Shoe-Goo'd pretty well. Holds it together even when cracked. Yay...
Puh-leeze?
"thumbsup"
Oh, and speaking of cracking bodies... I dropped my front posts as low as I could, so the bottom edge of the grille was resting on my WertyMade bumper, and on a tumble that impacted the hood... It cracked my grille. To be expected, as my grille slats were all cut out, making the whole thing more delicate. No big deal, the wire mesh that I put in place of the slats is Shoe-Goo'd pretty well. Holds it together even when cracked. Yay...
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Yes. Yes, will measure and post back. BTW it uses the longer adjustable link with ends, they are threaded on a good amount for strength.
I also used shorter screws to mount to knuckles and secured tie-rod with Axial thin locknuts AXA10352.
http://www.axialracing.com/products/axa1052
Edit: Great info on your grill, I like the cut-out look, but yes more fragile!
I also used shorter screws to mount to knuckles and secured tie-rod with Axial thin locknuts AXA10352.
http://www.axialracing.com/products/axa1052
Edit: Great info on your grill, I like the cut-out look, but yes more fragile!
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Used my calipers, 37.5mm between the two rod-ends, 89mm eye to eye. "thumbsup"
As per usual, you rock, you da Man, etc., etc.... 8);-):ror:
"thumbsup"
EDIT:
Awww, shoot - man, if and when ya have a mo', coulja peek at this page full of Hudy servo horns and point to the right part number?
Or just post it if ya have it handy?
Read the descriptions and none mention "reverse" offset, but all are "offset"...
https://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/product_main.php?kategoria=67
Ah, and upon closer inspection, it seems you used a 24t - I'll be using a 25t. I'm thinking it might be the Part number: # 293499 Alu Servo Horn - Futaba, Savöx - 2-Hole - 25T:
https://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=778&kategoria=67
2nd EDIT: found a huge pic on fleaBay - certainly seems to be a "reverse" offset. I think I unnerstan da sitchuashun now. Now to find one that won't take a month to get here! LOLz. RCMart, here I come....:
for Futaba #HSP-293499, ,(HSP-293499) by HUDY Aluminum 25T Servo Horn
"thumbsup"
EDIT:
Awww, shoot - man, if and when ya have a mo', coulja peek at this page full of Hudy servo horns and point to the right part number?
Or just post it if ya have it handy?
Read the descriptions and none mention "reverse" offset, but all are "offset"...
https://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/product_main.php?kategoria=67
Ah, and upon closer inspection, it seems you used a 24t - I'll be using a 25t. I'm thinking it might be the Part number: # 293499 Alu Servo Horn - Futaba, Savöx - 2-Hole - 25T:
https://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=778&kategoria=67
2nd EDIT: found a huge pic on fleaBay - certainly seems to be a "reverse" offset. I think I unnerstan da sitchuashun now. Now to find one that won't take a month to get here! LOLz. RCMart, here I come....:
for Futaba #HSP-293499, ,(HSP-293499) by HUDY Aluminum 25T Servo Horn
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Hudy# 293502, yes Hitec 24T to fit HS-7950TH servos.
293499 would be same offset but for 25T, I'm not sure but it appears slightly less overall length to the farhest hole. I think that will work though, it's what I'd order for 25T servo.
I ordered couple spares from RCMart today and they emailed shipped this afternoon lol we'll see.
293499 would be same offset but for 25T, I'm not sure but it appears slightly less overall length to the farhest hole. I think that will work though, it's what I'd order for 25T servo.
I ordered couple spares from RCMart today and they emailed shipped this afternoon lol we'll see.
fyrstormer
RCC Addict
Hm. I bought a steering conversion kit for my Ascender back when I first built it; the kit looked like yours, but it caused TONS of bump-steer. I ended up going back to the stock steering setup because the geometry was better. (how it was better I have no idea, it just was.) I put an O-ring on the pivot connecting the steering link and the drag link together, so it wouldn't flop around anymore.
Haven’t seen that kit, early on I swapped a Lunsford titanium link from Ernie, into stock tierod position and got little more ground clearance. Next was draglink on top of knuckle. Currently running that setup. There is a tiny bit of bump steer at full compression, but it’s so little it’s not a problem. I always adjust steering end points for both suspension travel limits and check it though out the range, I’ve still got awesome steering. Been working on panhard relocation bracket to get better sidehill and hopefully eliminate the tiny bit of bumpsteer.
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fyrstormer
RCC Addict
Down-travel limiters allow you to run the truck lower (which requires the spring adjusters to be further up on the shock bodies) without letting the shocks extend so far that the springs come off the carriers when the shocks are fully-extended.
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Works fine the way I've got my servo crossways and on top of mounts.
"thumbsup"
Thanks to Ernie (Codyboy) for pictures and link to Erik DLux' build here on RCC! I saw the start of his build and hadn't checked back on it lately, good stuff as usual! I've been thinking about eliminating the TT a lot lately and been tinkering, looking back to my OG SCX10 and the tranny flip that killed it for that truck, tranny driveshaft output offset, etc.
Big thanks to Ernie and Erik DLux for ideas and no fear in cutting stuff up and trying outside the box ideas!
Link to Erik Dlux's build:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/597118-dlux-has-gone-off-deep-end.html
TT theory starts about post 62!
Ernie's thread:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/597251-codyboys-79-ford-rent-own-ascender.html
Thanks to Ernie for generously building and sending me a set of axles with rear panhard setup!
In garage and driveway testing this seems to help reduce torque twist, I'll be doing more real world crawl testing. I've done several days of mocking up with different mounts, link lengths/placement, etc. This coupled with Rich's Shock Collar Mod, rear upper link mount changed, etc are all pieces that help improve the Ascender, I'll be running this at Proline By the Fire! BTW, yes I know theres' no screw in the axle link mount in the picture. :ror: 8) Everything clears even with my lowered fuel cell/rx box.
In garage and driveway testing it seems to help. With longer panhard link like Ernie sent, mine was binding a bit on left rear full compression (articulation ) about last 1/4" of shock travel. Compressing only left rear it binds slightly for last 1/4” of travel, seemed like something with link geometry was out of parameter just slightly. Turned out right shock was hitting frame rail on articulation, easy fix used a spare shock piston to space out both rear upper shock mounts and no more binding/rubbing. :ror:
This combined with Rich Trujillo's shock collar mod, Vaterra stiff rear upper and lower springs, and maybe rulrs definitely improves the TT. Put them all together and it's getting where we want to be! I've played with this setup on my bench and yard for couple days with all kinds of links mounts etc. I had to buy new shock towers, swap out frame rail that I drilled and filled too much, but it’s all buttoned up now! So far it seems nice, but will find out on the rocks and trails for sure what needs to be done next.
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Full compression.
Full droop travel.
Some sheet steel brackets I started but didn't finish to connect cut up shock tower to frame. Unfortunately it didn't come out too well because I couldn't twist them tight enough to properly clear the frame rails and it was bowing out the shock tower. I had all kinds of scrap servo mounts, angle, box aluminum, plastic pieces trying to brainstorm what to use. Due to my lowered receiver box, I couldn't drill and bolt it to that because it would penetrate the box where the lid screws go. A piece of flexible plastic handle from an old large art portfolio from school serves well once again, just cut the width down to 1/4" and used a leather punch to make screw holes!
Yes, the rear most third hole is drilled an tapped into the frame rail. It all clears the bed/cage, but I want to cut the body mounts off the rear towers for cleaner look and get some flex room for the cage when it goes for a tumble so that it's not bashing the cage up against the rear towers.
Ride height without battery.
Ready to rock n roll!
Full droop travel.
Some sheet steel brackets I started but didn't finish to connect cut up shock tower to frame. Unfortunately it didn't come out too well because I couldn't twist them tight enough to properly clear the frame rails and it was bowing out the shock tower. I had all kinds of scrap servo mounts, angle, box aluminum, plastic pieces trying to brainstorm what to use. Due to my lowered receiver box, I couldn't drill and bolt it to that because it would penetrate the box where the lid screws go. A piece of flexible plastic handle from an old large art portfolio from school serves well once again, just cut the width down to 1/4" and used a leather punch to make screw holes!
Yes, the rear most third hole is drilled an tapped into the frame rail. It all clears the bed/cage, but I want to cut the body mounts off the rear towers for cleaner look and get some flex room for the cage when it goes for a tumble so that it's not bashing the cage up against the rear towers.
Ride height without battery.
Ready to rock n roll!
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