Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[Natedog]

Thanks man, I'm not sure it's quite as dialed as the point n shoot Blazer, but it's doing quite well. Got more tuning things planned to try out, spent half a day last week out there changning up and testing. More updates will come, please stand by to stand by. :ror: :mrgreen: "thumbsup"

Edit: Forgot to mention that my original RTR Blazer motor seems due for replacement, it frequently starts squealing and squeaking until I oil the bushings, but that doesn't last long and it's soon making noise again. It's been a couple good years crawling with it, so trying to decide on a new motor.

 

[Ascender'nMN84]

Very nice! I got my pinstriping over the weekend but I was running all over town all weekend so my wrench time was limited to mounting 2 of 4 Hyrax's on my black SSD wheels for the new truck. I was supposed to go out yesterday and run trucks but it was cold and raining all day. After wheeling my new Honcho, I really want to follow through on a WB4 K10

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Yeti.stealth]

My motor is doing the same thing Natedog, it's the RTR motor from a first release Blazer too, nothing lasts forever!
Thinking about getting the Holmes Hobbies trailmaster sport 540 35turn.

Can also get the crawl master pro 16 turn brushed, it's the 5 slot armature type so that would make it similar to a 35 turn standard motor right? But how would it hold up to being dunked under water now and then?

 

[snapon boy]

My Holmes hobbies motors hold up to my 6 year old. Lol as long as you don't get them packed with mud. If your into mud the disposable hh motors are for you

149 r/c worx /scalerfab Team Driver

 

[Natedog]

35 turns is good crawler motor, 5 slot and lower turns has even better performance, but ime doesn't last as long.

 

[snapon boy]

Very true

149 r/c worx /scalerfab Team Driver

 

[Natedog]

If your into mud the disposable hh motors are for you

149 r/c worx /scalerfab Team Driver

Yes, 5 slot lower turn is great performance, but more brush and commutator maintenance. Mud and water then cheap sealed can motor is good. If you've moved the battery, then HH 21t on 3S is fantastic and lasts well!

 

[DMS70]

Hey Nate, I'm really liking the CI DW foams you recommend for my tsl's. I want to mount up my second set of wheels with the Proline Hyrak's I have. Any suggestions on foams for those? Also do you vent your tires? If I should be doing that, how is it best to do?

 

[Natedog]

Glad to hear it! IIRC Hyrax come with memory foam, which I'm not a fan of. I'd try either CI DW for TSLXL or Pro-Line 1.9" Single Stage Closed Cell Foam Insert (2), Manufacturer Stock# 6173-00. I was really impressed with the look and feel of Pro-Lines new single and dual stage crawler foams at the LHS. Their blue foam appears very high quality and is very nicely shaped, seems to fit the wheels and tires better than Crawler Innovations foams. These will be my next foams.
TowerHobbies.com | Pro-Line 1.9" Single Stage Closed Cell Foam Insert (2)

I used to vent my wheels, but now always vent my tires with 3 of 4 2mm holes punched evenly spaced around the tire tread area. Use an adjustable leather punch from Harbor Freight. Smaller tires get 3 holes, larger tires 4. I'd do 3 holes in 1.9s. "thumbsup"

 

[DMS70]

Glad to hear it! IIRC Hyrax come with memory foam, which I'm not a fan of. I'd try either CI DW for TSLXL or Pro-Line 1.9" Single Stage Closed Cell Foam Insert (2), Manufacturer Stock# 6173-00. I was really impressed with the look and feel of Pro-Lines new single and dual stage crawler foams at the LHS. Their blue foam appears very high quality and is very nicely shaped, seems to fit the wheels and tires better than Crawler Innovations foams. These will be my next foams.
TowerHobbies.com | Pro-Line 1.9" Single Stage Closed Cell Foam Insert (2)

I used to vent my tires, but now always vent my tires with 3 of 4 2mm holes punched evenly spaced around the tire tread area. Use an adjustable leather punch from Harbor Freight. Smaller tires get 3 holes, larger tires 4. I'd do 3 holes in 1.9s. "thumbsup"

I just checked out those Pro-line foams, and I'm going to give them a try. Not sure what I should do about venting on the tsl's, as they are already mounted. Not wanting to dis mount them, maybe I could try a small drill bit and carefully make some holes. Thanks

 

[Natedog]

For tires already mounted, use a soldering iron with very small pointed tip and carefully melt 3 tiny round holes in the tires. Or use sewing needle heated with lighter to make the holes."thumbsup"

Drill might grab and rip the tires or foams.

 

[Itali83]

For tires already mounted, use a soldering iron with very small pointed tip and carefully melt 3 tiny round holes in the tires. Or use sewing needle heated with lighter to make the holes."thumbsup"

Drill might grab and rip the tires or foams.

I use a finish nail, heat with MAP gas torch, and one clean hole is made. I only do one, line all 4 up with the hexes on the wheels, that way they are all in the same position so I put them on the bottom to let them drain while the truck is parked.

 

[fyrstormer]

I have the best luck getting water out of my vented tires by holding the truck in the air and hitting the throttle so the wheels spin at top speed. Centrifugal force will get water out of the foams more effectively than drip-draining ever will, because the force of gravity isn't enough to pull every last drop of water out of the pores in the foam. Water is actually really sticky, we just don't notice because we're used to it.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I don't vent my tires. I often go in water.

And I have no idea how you guys get single-stage, closed-cell foams to perform well with light rigs. I think they are way too stiff.

 

[fyrstormer]

I have open-cell foams in all my crawlers, and in my Baja Rey. I'm weird though. Not venting is an option, but then you get less tire-squish. I like tire-squish and I don't mind trading some performance to get it; I like seeing the tires wrap themselves around the edges of rocks while climbing over them.

 

[DMS70]

I'm thinking seeing that I've been using the tsl's unvented, I'll keep them like that for a little longer. The Hyraks I'll vent, and this way I can see what I like better. I don't have a much rock to climb on without traveling, or making my own rock garden. Locally it's more trail and woods.

 

[Yeti.stealth]

...And I have no idea how you guys get single-stage, closed-cell foams to perform well with light rigs. I think they are way too stiff.

That was me up until a week ago, rigs a bit heavier now,jconcepts Scorpio tyres vented and well broken in, tried dueces wild foams again and realised right then I have been wobbling around on flat tyres!

My rig can take on all the tough lines at my local crawl spot that were borderline in the past, still borderline but with way better steering authority/confidence.

Test run in dirt/ gravel etc and just as good, maybe even better.

 

[fyrstormer]

This is true, foams that are too soft will ruin handling. But I'd personally rather have overstuffed open-cell foams to get the support I need instead of closed-cell foams; closed-cell foams just don't feel right to me, for some reason.

 

[Natedog]

Light work Fitment is good and I have it aimed for proper lighting, so protruding slightly on outboard edge, looks proper to me.
Next time I'd de-chrome it first, got lots little plastic and chrome shavings everywhere. Think I'm going to before I do the other light bucket, then either go with black or spray some Plastikote Bumper Chrome paint, which I've used before inside light buckets on 1:1 and it looks pretty good.

 

[Natedog]

Couple drops of ca to hold the buckets in and then E6000 or? I don't think MEK or Bondene going to melt the Axial light buckets to Vatrra styrene(?) grill?