chris.martell
Rock Crawler
So when can I drive it?
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Mini Super
- Thread starter MRCrackhead
- Start date
Solitaire
RCC Addict
ThunderPower makes a 325mAh 3 cell that is a lot smaller than the NanoTechs. I've used one on my Pro and Sporty rig and they will do a 6 minute comp with no issues, if you're still looking for alternatives.
I run a 6ex for 2.2pro and my super.
Here's my stick set up
Left stick: up/down= throttle/ reverse mixed front and rear with top switch off: and front dig with switch on.
Left/right= rear steer left/right
Right stick: left/right= front steer left and right
Up/down= rear motor front/ reverse
Here's my stick set up
Left stick: up/down= throttle/ reverse mixed front and rear with top switch off: and front dig with switch on.
Left/right= rear steer left/right
Right stick: left/right= front steer left and right
Up/down= rear motor front/ reverse
MRCrackhead
RCC Addict
I spent all day getting it driveable. It's a good thing my mower has headlights, cuz I just got done mowing in the dark....lol
Still got a lot to do:
Batteries
Pin the c-hubs and shock/link mounts
Shocks need some oil and tuning
Tires aren't glued yet since I don't really have the foams worked out
Knuckle weights
That's what I can think of the top of my head, but there's more....
Next weekend, or the following, maybe we can meet up and try it out on some rocks at Sam Louis Park.
Thanks. I'll look them up and see what the dimensions are.
There's just not much room on the axle due to it's narrow track width.
It look like a lot of room, until the tire steers; then not so much.
Also, the tires are shorter, so it's tough to find a battery that will sit low enough to stay below the tires. The two I tried before needed to sit on top of the case to fit, then they were too tall.
The dual 180 batts fit beside the case so they're low enough. Together they're 360mAh total, so they should work, in theory.
One batt weighs 18 grams, so I'm hoping having one on the rear axle is not too terrible. We'll see.
I have it very similar, except the front and rear steering are opposite of yours.
Might be a left handed thing, but it seemed more natural to steer with my left hand with the front axle.....time will tell.
Essentially the left stick is the front axle, right is rear.
Switches are the same as yours.
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MRCrackhead
RCC Addict
I've been thinking about this since I posted and will probably switch the front steering to the other stick like you have it.
When you're wiggling the tires to adjust the rig, it would not be good to bump the throttle.
It makes more sense.
Solitaire
RCC Addict
I'll save you some lookup time on those ThunderPowers
Length 47.5mm
Width 26.5mm
Height 17mm
Weight 36 grams
Length 47.5mm
Width 26.5mm
Height 17mm
Weight 36 grams
If you can i run a slightly stiffer spring for the right stick up/down for the rear throttle. This further prevents accidental bump of the throttle for rear
MRCrackhead
RCC Addict
Bearings for the cases came from RC Bearings.
I figured a new rig needed a fresh set of bearings to have a clean start.
The bearings at the ends of the tubes were just a bit snug on the Axial shafts.
I used some scotch-brite to remove the black "paint" or whatever is coating the shafts.
That was enough to get them to slide into place.
Short side shafts have the full 7mm engagement in the locker.
These end bearings will hold the shafts steady in the RCBros lockers.
I think standard Berg shafts use a round tip on the end to center the shaft (might be wrong there).
The XR shafts were only long enough to make a 4mm tang engagement on the long side.
I'm sure it will be sufficient.
Starting with no parts at all, OFNA or Wraith shafts for the long side would afford more engagement; but I already had these parts on hand.
New bearings installed and ready for assembly.
I figured a new rig needed a fresh set of bearings to have a clean start.
The bearings at the ends of the tubes were just a bit snug on the Axial shafts.
I used some scotch-brite to remove the black "paint" or whatever is coating the shafts.
That was enough to get them to slide into place.
Short side shafts have the full 7mm engagement in the locker.
These end bearings will hold the shafts steady in the RCBros lockers.
I think standard Berg shafts use a round tip on the end to center the shaft (might be wrong there).
The XR shafts were only long enough to make a 4mm tang engagement on the long side.
I'm sure it will be sufficient.
Starting with no parts at all, OFNA or Wraith shafts for the long side would afford more engagement; but I already had these parts on hand.
New bearings installed and ready for assembly.
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chris.martell
Rock Crawler
You set the bar high with this rig! It's going to take one hell of a credit card to top this build.
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MRCrackhead
RCC Addict
I'm glad I had a lot of this stuff sitting around from different projects or I'd be in the dog house.
My account is a bit on the warm side, truthfully.
As much as I could build, or salvage from the parts bins, there are just some things you gotta spend money on.
Lot of fun building it though....even more fun to chase Addy around the house with it.....hahaha
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
I bet she loves that Merc. But still the bar is set and it's up there quite a ways my friend! Let's hope other's follow. I know I will be as soon as I recover from the move back.
MRCrackhead
RCC Addict
Took the mini super out for a shake down run today.
Soldered the batteries, put oil in the shocks, narrowed some old rover foams and tacked the tires to the rims.
It's not comp ready; but it's test drive capable.
My phone photos won't upload here.
This is my first attempt at resizing pictures, forgive the poor quality. They are not blurry in their original state.
I can't turn the picture quality on the phone down enough to match what the attachment manager says they should be.
Any pointers would be appreciated.
Ground clearance seemed adequate.
Rear steer, and motor mixing can get you out of some very strange places.
I had a lot of trouble climbing steep stuff.
When the rig got loose, I'd try to "swim" the front end around looking for traction.
Between my clumsiness, and not having the radio setup perfectly, I found the rear axle overdriving the front at the worst times.
I just can't seem to keep my right hand from drifting up when I steer, and the rig got way off the line, or went over backwards.
I set up a course; but didn't do very well.
The learning curve on the sticks is tricky.
Clearance on the gates themselves seemed very reasonable.
The rig handled well, I just kept bumping steering or throttle when I wasn't needing it.
I pointed out by gate 6, and got a couple pics after the timer ran out on gate 7.....lol
The batteries last much longer than 6 minutes so that's a plus.
Overall, I'm pleased with the run today.
I need to get the radio to mix the over/under better and get the hang of using the sticks.
Wipeouts, and gate touches were operator error in nearly every case, so I suppose that's no big deal. Just need to drive better.
Soldered the batteries, put oil in the shocks, narrowed some old rover foams and tacked the tires to the rims.
It's not comp ready; but it's test drive capable.
My phone photos won't upload here.
This is my first attempt at resizing pictures, forgive the poor quality. They are not blurry in their original state.
I can't turn the picture quality on the phone down enough to match what the attachment manager says they should be.
Any pointers would be appreciated.
Ground clearance seemed adequate.
Rear steer, and motor mixing can get you out of some very strange places.
I had a lot of trouble climbing steep stuff.
When the rig got loose, I'd try to "swim" the front end around looking for traction.
Between my clumsiness, and not having the radio setup perfectly, I found the rear axle overdriving the front at the worst times.
I just can't seem to keep my right hand from drifting up when I steer, and the rig got way off the line, or went over backwards.
I set up a course; but didn't do very well.
The learning curve on the sticks is tricky.
Clearance on the gates themselves seemed very reasonable.
The rig handled well, I just kept bumping steering or throttle when I wasn't needing it.
I pointed out by gate 6, and got a couple pics after the timer ran out on gate 7.....lol
The batteries last much longer than 6 minutes so that's a plus.
Overall, I'm pleased with the run today.
I need to get the radio to mix the over/under better and get the hang of using the sticks.
Wipeouts, and gate touches were operator error in nearly every case, so I suppose that's no big deal. Just need to drive better.
chris.martell
Rock Crawler
That rig looks like it will do just fine. I know those rocks and well they are tricky with a tuned rig!
This thread has me seriously considering making a mini super as my next project.
pastorjosh
Newbie
I want to build one of these now!! I bet a twin stick set up creates a huge learning curve.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
MRCrackhead
RCC Addict
That's awesome guys.
I've got nobody to drive with/against yet.
For now, it's just a novelty rig that I'm having a lot of fun building.
Couple more builds, and we'll have a class, so get to work!
The twin stick radio is certainly different.
If you fly helicopters or airplanes, it wouldn't be too bad.
My problem is I'm just not that talented.....lol....I'll figure it out eventually.
MRCrackhead
RCC Addict
I ordered a used pair from rcrecycler.com for about $90.
At the time, I needed all the parts because I had no idea what that even meant, never having seen one before.
In hindsight, I could have ordered the tubes, cases, and gears for less than I paid for the pair of used axles. Easy to say now.
I plan to run plastic gears in both axles to save weight; but I'm glad to have the metal gears just in case they don't work out.
If you're not on a tight budget, Dlux makes some really nice cases and tubes that would likely work even better. Perhaps just the MT cases and a pair of Dlux tubes would be the ultimate setup, and still very cheap.
I was building an experiment, and certainly didn't want to invest a lot of money in case it was an epic fail.
