Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[edjo69]

Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew what the Pro-Line F11 Pro-Trac bead lock wheels are a copy of so when I go to put on livery I don't use the wrong wheel manufacturers stickers?

Mewalsh100, ***just read about the wheel again last night in the 70's***

 

[TheLetterJ]

The Proline F11's are a cross between a Method "the standard" mr301 (10 spokes), and a Method "double standard" mr304 (12 spokes), the F11's have, you guessed it... 11 spokes. There's about a bazillion other wheels with a similar style, but Method Race Wheels are probably the most common.

 

[edjo69]

The Proline F11's are a cross between a Method "the standard" mr301 (10 spokes), and a Method "double standard" mr304 (12 spokes), the F11's have, you guessed it... 11 spokes. There's about a bazillion other wheels with a similar style, but Method Race Wheels are probably the most common.

Good to know, so I can be flexible with livery.



I caught a glimpse of Ryan Millens Toyota at the 2018 Mint in qualifying footage and proceeded to try and find any pictures but could not. The rear shot I saw looked like I might be able to sorta use the BND orange/wht/blk color scheme to do a modified version of his truck.



If anyone can think of a truck I may be able to replicate with my BND colors please let me know!!!!!!

 

[edjo69]

Got the truck fully apart yesterday, added a dual spare carrier, thank you *mewalsh100*, I may run an off-set spare for now and do a Jimco style rear end I found shots of last night until I get a second spare sorted out. I also fabbed up a new tray for my ESC and came up with a basic layout for the electronics.

Today I am rebuilding all three diff's the front and center with Exotek housings and the rear with Traxxas screws. After that I am replacing the rear axle with the VP, the front bulkhead with the SSD, servo with a 7955, shock towers front and rear, rear pivot blocks, trailing and upper links and if I get to it I may do the shocks today as well, or run the stockers for a bit.

Tomorrow is electronics day including a full set of Gear Head light bars (3 front 1 rear), dual 40mm "radiator fans" etc.... I still have know idea which motor to run, I have a cc 1410-3800kv sensored or a HW XERUN 3660 G2 sensored 3600kv. The CC is only 1/8" shaft and the HW is 5mm, I don't think this truck would kill a 1/8" shaft on 2s but I don't know because I haven't run it yet.

Anyone have any suggestions on the motor and or Livery hit me up, thanks, E

 

[edjo69]

Mewalsh100, I dont think I recalled reading about if you had decided or not on the UDR?

 

[mewalsh100]

I've been inspired to work on my Baja Rey by all the cool stuff mewalsh100 has been doing. So in case anybody was wondering, Proline Raptor body on Baja Rey chassis with modified wheelbase. It's not 100% perfect but I think it will be close enough to not trigger my OCD.

Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr

Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr

I shortened the wheelbase using Yeti trailing arms for the lowers and SCX10.1 steering tie rods for the uppers. I still need to shorten the drive shaft and design/3D print a front mounting system for the body. The sides of the bed are mounted just below the tail lights and the roof is secured using the stock rear Baja Rey roof mounts. I'm going to try to source some permanent upper links now since I have the length figured out.

JDM74 - I picked up a Proline Raptor body as well. I mocked up with Vanquish Yeti trailing arms. I just wasn't digging the wheel arch to wheel alignment, even with the Yeti arms. Seems like I would have had to take a little bit from both front and rear arches to get in sitting centered, and then MY OCD would be triggered by the cattywompous wheel arches. :shock: My other concern was how the shorter TA's would effect handling and air-born prowess. The Baja Rey is a true aerial artist when you send it, whereas the Yeti, not so much. I think a lot of that and its overall stability stem from the longer wheelbase.

That said, I think i'm still going to use it, but my plan will be to cut the rear fenders off and just roll with the cab/hood - like they lost the rear fenders somewhere along the way! Probably do Redbull livery for that.

Definitely digging your livery / paint!"thumbsup" Where did you score the BFG stickers on your fenders BTW. Those are sweet!

 

[mewalsh100]

Mewalsh100, I dont think I recalled reading about if you had decided or not on the UDR?

I've gone back and forth. It was between the UDR for scale appearance and the Super Baja Rey for performance. I've got so many other projects brewing right now though, including the Baja Rey, I've back-burnered that for now.

 

[mewalsh100]

So, I got quite a bit more done last night. New front valence with a milled out reveal for the lower lightbar. Still working on ideas for a bracket for the lower (grill area) pod lights. Not a lot of real estate to work with between the body and cage there tho, so I've been scratching my head.

I've been working with and mocking up using my existing Baja Rey bodies, including this green, FOX livery. Hood and cab on the new body will be largely untouched in terms of fitment. But, I had to do some trimming and fitment for the rear fenders to accommodate the dual spares. Grabbed the new fenders and proceeded to measure, mark, measure again and slowly trim bits away. The kicker was that I had to leave the top, rear fender mount, but the spares were encroaching on the upper fender area. I just created a reveal for them along that upper fender line and made a nice, "organic" trim line around the upper mounting tab. It was a blessing being able to see through the unpainted fenders for marking up, trimming and test fitting.

Lastly, I marked up and drilled out the holes for the Proline Baja lights on the aluminum roof valence I fabbed up the other week. They're sitting pretty and solid up there now. I did also do a bit more trim work on the interior and it's fitting really nice now.

Anyway, I've got a long way to go, but making some steady progress. I can't even count how many times I've had the cage on and off the chassis now, inner body panels on and off the cage, and body on and off the cage. Yikes.:shock:

I'm still scratching my head on how to best create a "bed area" that looks legit. As I mentioned, I scrapped the 1 piece aluminum one I made and I'm back to square one. I just didn't care for how 1 dimensional it was looking. Anyone have any suggestions?????

 

[mewalsh100]

Ordered some new shocks for this sucker tonight. Power Stroke Yeti Lengths for out back. (2 sets - one as shock and one as damper) Then Power Stroke Slash rears for up front, plus spring selection kit. Pretty confident I can get it dialed in with this set up."thumbsup"

 

[JDM74]

JDM74 - I picked up a Proline Raptor body as well. I mocked up with Vanquish Yeti trailing arms. I just wasn't digging the wheel arch to wheel alignment, even with the Yeti arms. Seems like I would have had to take a little bit from both front and rear arches to get in sitting centered, and then MY OCD would be triggered by the cattywompous wheel arches. :shock: My other concern was how the shorter TA's would effect handling and air-born prowess. The Baja Rey is a true aerial artist when you send it, whereas the Yeti, not so much. I think a lot of that and its overall stability stem from the longer wheelbase.

That said, I think i'm still going to use it, but my plan will be to cut the rear fenders off and just roll with the cab/hood - like they lost the rear fenders somewhere along the way! Probably do Redbull livery for that.

Definitely digging your livery / paint!"thumbsup" Where did you score the BFG stickers on your fenders BTW. Those are sweet!

Those aren’t stickers. There are no stickers on that body. All paint.

 

[mewalsh100]

Those aren’t stickers. There are no stickers on that body. All paint.

Dang - that's crazy. Same guy who did your other body I assume?

 

[JDM74]

Dang - that's crazy. Same guy who did your other body I assume?

Yes.

 

[edjo69]

Wow, long week, I decided on using the HW motor for now, stock gearing, I have the entire chassis completed except for the front suspension. I finished it last week by just replacing the upper arms with RPM arms and the camber correction they talk about must be worked into the lower arms. So not wanting "straight" lower arms I ordered up a full set of Metal Concepts upper and lower arms and the Kyosho 104b sway bar kit. Sorting out the front end now. Need to find out if I have to host photos and then I will be back with some pictures hopefully...

 

[edjo69]

Front Camber question

So any combination of stock or MC lower arms and RPM upper still have a fair amount of negative camber, good for scale, not good for 4wd and it doesn't correct through the suspension travel The way it sits now is with MC lower arms, RPM uppers with approximately -2 or 3 degrees of camber, but here is where my question starts because I know all I have to do is add the upper MC arms and I can adjust them out ward. BUT the dog bones of the drive shafts at full droop are already just barely hanging on inside the drive cups, so to you guys that corrected your camber with the MC arms, Do your drive shafts come out when jumping, unloading of the inside wheel etc...? I see a few sets of them out there in this thread, could someone share or pm me? Thank you, Ed

 

[mewalsh100]

Re: Front Camber question

So any combination of stock or MC lower arms and RPM upper still have a fair amount of negative camber, good for scale, not good for 4wd and it doesn't correct through the suspension travel The way it sits now is with MC lower arms, RPM uppers with approximately -2 or 3 degrees of camber, but here is where my question starts because I know all I have to do is add the upper MC arms and I can adjust them out ward. BUT the dog bones of the drive shafts at full droop are already just barely hanging on inside the drive cups, so to you guys that corrected your camber with the MC arms, Do your drive shafts come out when jumping, unloading of the inside wheel etc...? I see a few sets of them out there in this thread, could someone share or pm me? Thank you, Ed

I have MC upper and lower arms and have had zero issues with that. Mine goes on the "SEND" all the time too!"thumbsup"

 

[mewalsh100]

It's been slow going now that the Holidays are over and I'm back to the grind. But, I finished up the front mount radiator and shroud / trans cooler. There is indeed a 3D printed radiator behind that stainless mesh!:lmao:

 

[edjo69]

Re: Front Camber question

I have MC upper and lower arms and have had zero issues with that. Mine goes on the "SEND" all the time too!"thumbsup"

Well, I may try the uppers then, take a bit of -camber out and see what happens. Building my PL shocks tonight and the PL wheels and tires, Sunday I start on the control electronics....

* Thank you Mewalsh, I found a set of the PL BAJA lights from an eBayer in Russia, should have them in a few weeks, he has 3 sets left!!

 

[CM9000]

I like how you guys are taking this truck to a different level.

I would love to have kept my trucks and done something similar. Keep it up guys!

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[edjo69]

Rock Rey driveshafts etc..

Mewalsh or anyone that may have tried: Has anyone tried to put the drive cups, front axles and extending/collapsing driveshafts from the Rock Rey into this truck? That would fix up the front end proper once and for all if they fit, the main issue I see is the sway bar, but most oy you guys don't use one, so I could sort that out on my own.

 

[CM9000]

Whats wrong with the stock baja rey ones?

I never used the way bar once i found it it started to bind my front suspension up once it popped off the a arms..

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