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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

Yesterday I finally got to drive the Baja rey for the first time! It’s running an airtronics rx, hobbywing xr8 sct and hobbywing 3660 3600kv on 3s with a locked center diff. And wow! It’s a lot faster than I thought it would be, and it can pull wheelies


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Yesterday I finally got to drive the Baja rey for the first time! It’s running an airtronics rx, hobbywing xr8 sct and hobbywing 3660 3600kv on 3s with a locked center diff. And wow! It’s a lot faster than I thought it would be, and it can pull wheelies


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good to know...Currently assembling a kit and that is the Esc/motor combo I am looking at using or the 3200kv...haven't decided yet
 
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Picked up some custom printed "driver" decals. ( Stumbo is my nickname in our mountain biking group;-) ), so I figured I'd go with that!
 

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Kr145: I was going to go with the 3200kv until I found they had a 3600kv version. Mostly because I didn’t want to loose the speed that the stock 3800 is supposed to have. Im also running the stock pinion as well.

Bajarey2017: I don’t actually know how it handles with the open diff. As I put the locker in from the start to make it closer to both yetis that I have.

I ran the Baja on street and grass and it was nearly uncontrollable until I realized that the steering trim was off.... which wasn’t for several flips on asphalt. On the grass it was also fast with the only real problem being turns. As well as the rear end sitting up way too high but that’s probably since I took the factory spare tire off.


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Kr145: I was going to go with the 3200kv until I found they had a 3600kv version. Mostly because I didn’t want to loose the speed that the stock 3800 is supposed to have. Im also running the stock pinion as well.

Bajarey2017: I don’t actually know how it handles with the open diff. As I put the locker in from the start to make it closer to both yetis that I have.

I ran the Baja on street and grass and it was nearly uncontrollable until I realized that the steering trim was off.... which wasn’t for several flips on asphalt. On the grass it was also fast with the only real problem being turns. As well as the rear end sitting up way too high but that’s probably since I took the factory spare tire off.


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Curious why you locked out the diff when it clearly put the Baja Rey at an advantage over the Yeti TT?
 
The cause is partially due to shallower than average depth of the hex's in the stock wheels, and more often than not, a wheel nut that backed off/ wasn't tightened all the way. Besides stripping the hex's out of a couple of the stock wheels, I had a few of the spokes crack too.

The remedy (for me) was to switch to .225" SLW hubs and Axial Yeti SCORE plastic short course wheels (I have Axial black #AX31309, they are also available in green #AX31369, orange #AX31370, and white #AX31371) I have not stripped, cracked, or otherwise broken a wheel or hub since and have reused the wheels on a couple sets of tires now. I'm happy with them.
 
The cause is partially due to shallower than average depth of the hex's in the stock wheels, and more often than not, a wheel nut that backed off/ wasn't tightened all the way. Besides stripping the hex's out of a couple of the stock wheels, I had a few of the spokes crack too.

The remedy (for me) was to switch to .225" SLW hubs and Axial Yeti SCORE plastic short course wheels (I have Axial black #AX31309, they are also available in green #AX31369, orange #AX31370, and white #AX31371) I have not stripped, cracked, or otherwise broken a wheel or hub since and have reused the wheels on a couple sets of tires now. I'm happy with them.

thanks "thumbsup"

Is this sound from what you described or something else, this only happens in reverse and im having a hard time finding what it is. Hopefully youcan hear from the clip: https://clyp.it/nvrlxzgu#
 
Curious why you locked out the diff when it clearly put the Baja Rey at an advantage over the Yeti TT?



I don’t see how it put the Baja rey at a huge advantage by locking the diff. I would think by doing it, it gave the Baja a disadvantage. Considering the day I got it, I went to take the rear driveshaft off to install the locker and ended up having to replace the rear driveshaft and center outdrive prior to even changing the battery connector so I could run it.

I never ran it with the stock electronics.


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thanks "thumbsup"

Is this sound from what you described or something else, this only happens in reverse and im having a hard time finding what it is. Hopefully youcan hear from the clip: https://clyp.it/nvrlxzgu#

Uh oh! Sounds to me like your ring & pinion gears are stripped. Start by checking the pinion bearings. I see shiny aluminum parts in your near future.
 
I gotta say that the Center Diff does indeed give the Baja Rey a distinct advantage versus the Yeti TT. Just my 2 cents.

I can’t tell from how your post is worded, but I think we’re in agreement? Locking out the center diff would be a disadvantage.
 
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Uh oh! Sounds to me like your ring & pinion gears are stripped. Start by checking the pinion bearings. I see shiny aluminum parts in your near future.

im gonna check it out but actually the very major thing I did not realize before was that actually there's a lot of movement that shouldn't be there where the driveshaft enters the third member. Still waiting for the screw pin and then I can try remove it since mines stripped currently.
 
Yep, your pinion bearings are shot then. Once those are gone, your gears' mesh/alignment wanders around and the gears start making crunchy noises, usually first noticed when hard on the brakes or in reverse. You can try throwing new bearings on the pinion, but if you've been hearing those noises, you'll likely need to replace your gears to.

The lack of pinion support is what I would consider the biggest weak link on the Rey's. Luckily, there are several aftermarket options available that will solve that problem by using both larger bearings and a much more rigid aluminum housing. SSD, Hot Racing, Metal Concepts, (and I think a couple others) make replacement 3rd members, Vanquish and RC4WD make complete replacement axle housings. Prices range from ~$25-$150, but they're all good fixes (can't speak for the RC4WD axle as I haven't heard of anyone running one.)

SSD and Exotek both make aluminum front diff housings for about $50, but the SSD one uses larger bearings (13mm inner, 11mm outer, vs Exoteks 11mm inner and stock sized 10mm outer.) If you've ever seen the size of the balls in a 5x10x4 ball bearing (stock inner and outer pinion bearings on front and rear diffs on the Rey) they're about as big as dust, so even the jump to a 5x11x4 (like Metal Concepts uses) about doubles the strength/size of the balls inside.

I'd consider those parts money well spent for the sake of reliability.
 
Yep, your pinion bearings are shot then. Once those are gone, your gears' mesh/alignment wanders around and the gears start making crunchy noises, usually first noticed when hard on the brakes or in reverse. You can try throwing new bearings on the pinion, but if you've been hearing those noises, you'll likely need to replace your gears to.

The lack of pinion support is what I would consider the biggest weak link on the Rey's. Luckily, there are several aftermarket options available that will solve that problem by using both larger bearings and a much more rigid aluminum housing. SSD, Hot Racing, Metal Concepts, (and I think a couple others) make replacement 3rd members, Vanquish and RC4WD make complete replacement axle housings. Prices range from ~$25-$150, but they're all good fixes (can't speak for the RC4WD axle as I haven't heard of anyone running one.)

SSD and Exotek both make aluminum front diff housings for about $50, but the SSD one uses larger bearings (13mm inner, 11mm outer, vs Exoteks 11mm inner and stock sized 10mm outer.) If you've ever seen the size of the balls in a 5x10x4 ball bearing (stock inner and outer pinion bearings on front and rear diffs on the Rey) they're about as big as dust, so even the jump to a 5x11x4 (like Metal Concepts uses) about doubles the strength/size of the balls inside.

I'd consider those parts money well spent for the sake of reliability.

Thank you, I have had the ssd third member since I bought it and will replace asap after I can take out the driveshaft with striped screw pin. I am running 3s and my end goal is to see how robust I can make it. On the list of stuff to do is gonna be: Front bulkhead (ssd), rpm front upper and lower A-arms. A bit later: sort out the wheel situation, and maybe move on to a vanquish full aluminium rear axle because that looks great.

Right now I have replaced stock bumper with the Rpm one and have vanquish steel upper links.

:badger:
 
Thank you, I have had the ssd third member since I bought it and will replace asap after I can take out the driveshaft with striped screw pin. I am running 3s and my end goal is to see how robust I can make it. On the list of stuff to do is gonna be: Front bulkhead (ssd), rpm front upper and lower A-arms. A bit later: sort out the wheel situation, and maybe move on to a vanquish full aluminium rear axle because that looks great.



Right now I have replaced stock bumper with the Rpm one and have vanquish steel upper links.



:badger:



I’m trying to make mine 3s proof as well. Definitely get the vanquish axle. It uses I think 14mm bearings and the bearing carrier is bolted to the third member just like a real axle housing. Only down side is you have to remove the axles to take out the third member. The gear mesh is perfect just like the ssd front diff housing. The truck is much quieter as well. Going to run ceramic bearings in the center diff and should be good to go.
fd0aff5d0f5e965c356396d6ed0c3df8.jpg



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i tried swapping out my pinion to 10t I do notice the marking on the mount but the guy on youtube i followed didnt use them.

Pic here: https://i.imgur.com/MgehmF0.jpg

You think this is okay? Seems to go in alright although im slightly concerned about the mesh as it seemed to get a little bit stuck when moving it with my hand very slow. (Wont been driving for a little while as im waiting for parts)

edit: definetly something wrong because when i tighten the screw on the metal plate it makes it that the pinion and spur cant even spin :(
 
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Yeah it didn’t work for me either I thought it was down to changing the motor to castle Iv got the stock pinion and it’s around the 16t mark on the mount now only way I could get it to work was a lot of head scratching and retrying different positions until you find the sweet spot , there is a little hack using 2x washers in between the plastic housing that receives the motor mount and the motor mount itself , it does create a tiny step in the chassis plate but it definitely does work [emoji106]


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What are you gyus trying to replicate with choosing diferrent from predefined mounting holes in the motor plate?
Could you give me a hint where I can look at the washers installed between plastic housing and motor plate?
 
i was just following some guide on youtube i guess i should try it picking the correct hole :lmao:

edit: was it correct in my last photo? Seems theres more complexity then moving one side to the correct number so i need help.
 
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