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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

Got the new SCBE wheels and bead locks on the B-Rey. Quick shout out to JDM74 for the deal on the wheels and tires. The green is a little brighter on the bead-locks than the body, but it still looks pretty sweet. I've also got an orange set for the new daily driver body i'm going to be painting up. I decided I'm going to do K&N Filter livery on the new body. Black, orange, and maybe a bit of white.



On another note, is anyone else running / tuning KING shocks on their Baja Rey? I've played around with mine 'till I'm about nuts and still just can't get them where I want them. The biggest issue I've had is the stock spring rates suck for this truck, and they're a dual stage design. I can't seem to find a tuning kit/springs anywhere for these shocks. The closest I got was running the stock Baja Rey single springs with the pre-load adjuster wound way down to meet the spring as it's a good bit shorter than the 2 springs on the Kings. It has to come so far down though that it leaves me nowhere to go but up with the pre-load for adjustment which leaves the spring jangling loose on the shock body. I've also run everything from 35w oil, which was way to light and had them "pogo-sticking" to 85w which just gave them a dead feel.:cry: Absolutely love the look of the Kings on this truck, but If I can't get them sorted they're going to the parts pile!



Would be awesome if LOSI came out with aluminum shock bodies for this rig.



Iv been running pro lines with 35wt in front and 60wt in the rear and for the conditions I run in it’s a really good set up. No more endoing off of jumps and it handles the choppy rough stuff really good. Are those functioning beadlocks? Your truck is looking sweet. I’m about to do a makeover on mine as well


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Iv been running pro lines with 35wt in front and 60wt in the rear and for the conditions I run in it’s a really good set up. No more endoing off of jumps and it handles the choppy rough stuff really good. Are those functioning beadlocks? Your truck is looking sweet. I’m about to do a makeover on mine as well

Thanks man! No, the tires still need to be glued on. I've got to get those aluminum RC4WD SC wheels over to my buddy to see if he can mill enough off the back to get the track width right. In the mean time, I started looking around for SCBE wheels because I like the look of the bead lock ring. JDM74 here on the forums mentioned he had a set he would sell, so we worked the deal. (Thanks again JDM74!)"thumbsup"

I had ProLines on my old Slash 4x4 and I did love them. My only complaint would be that they seemed to leak a good bit, and it's not like I'm not meticulous with my rigs.:lmao:

Anyway, posting some pics of the new, K&N themed body below. I thrashed out on masking and painting yesterday afternoon in to the wee hours, then wrapped it up this morning. I'm honestly not sure which one is going to be the "shelf queen" now. The orange and black with a touch of white on the roof just pops. Plus, the orange SCBE bead lock rings match sweet!
 
New K&N livery"thumbsup"
 

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Okay so I finally got a 8mm nut driver, went and replaced all the rear wheel bearings. I just want to check, if you hold one of the rear wheels and try to move the other is there meant to be that bit of give there, I can feel it move a good few mm? I just want to check to be on the safe side.

Also I just got my shipment from rcmart (tools, stuff, rpm front bumper and incision rear upper links). I placed this order after HobbyKing shipped out one of my orders, and yeah it arrived before HobbyKing. Both coming from the same country. I have to say I really love rcmart, it's very efficient shipping which has come in a week or under 3 out of 3 times I ordered.
 
Okay so I finally got a 8mm nut driver, went and replaced all the rear wheel bearings. I just want to check, if you hold one of the rear wheels and try to move the other is there meant to be that bit of give there, I can feel it move a good few mm? I just want to check to be on the safe side.

Also I just got my shipment from rcmart (tools, stuff, rpm front bumper and incision rear upper links). I placed this order after HobbyKing shipped out one of my orders, and yeah it arrived before HobbyKing. Both coming from the same country. I have to say I really love rcmart, it's very efficient shipping which has come in a week or under 3 out of 3 times I ordered.

As far as the rear wheels, the rear end is locked. There should not be any give, but there is a small bit of "slop". If you can hold one of the rear wheels and spin/rotate the other, something is wrong. If it's just a little bit of play, or slop, that's normal.
 
Took some scrap lexan and made some number plates last night. Used some ProLine number plate decals from an old Silverado body from my Slash. I was also able to use the ProLine window pillar decal from that set. I think she's looking pretty sweet! "thumbsup"

During the rebuild, I also replaced every screw I could with stainless ones, so no more rusty hardware. There were a few I didn't have the sizes for, so I'll probably end up ordering a Baja Rey specific kit. You can never have enough hardware around in this hobby!
 

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Iv been running pro lines with 35wt in front and 60wt in the rear and for the conditions I run in it’s a really good set up. No more endoing off of jumps and it handles the choppy rough stuff really good. Are those functioning beadlocks? Your truck is looking sweet. I’m about to do a makeover on mine as well

Thanks man! No, the tires still need to be glued on. I've got to get those aluminum RC4WD SC wheels over to my buddy to see if he can mill enough off the back to get the track width right. In the mean time, I started looking around for SCBE wheels because I like the look of the bead lock ring. JDM74 here on the forums mentioned he had a set he would sell, so we worked the deal. (Thanks again JDM74!)"thumbsup"

I had ProLines on my old Slash 4x4 and I did love them. My only complaint would be that they seemed to leak a good bit, and it's not like I'm not meticulous with my rigs.:lmao:

Anyway, posting some pics of the new, K&N themed body below. I thrashed out on masking and painting yesterday afternoon in to the wee hours, then wrapped it up this morning. I'm honestly not sure which one is going to be the "shelf queen" now. The orange and black with a touch of white on the roof just pops. Plus, the orange SCBE bead lock rings match sweet!



I can’t remember who but somebody on here recommended traxxas xring seals for the big bores so I replaced 1 seal on each shock with one and no more leaks. Proline told me they were sending out some updated seals for mine but they look the same as the old ones. Yeah your truck is looking sick, I got something in the works for mine but yours will be hard to top.


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I can’t remember who but somebody on here recommended traxxas xring seals for the big bores so I replaced 1 seal on each shock with one and no more leaks. Proline told me they were sending out some updated seals for mine but they look the same as the old ones. Yeah your truck is looking sick, I got something in the works for mine but yours will be hard to top.


Make sure you post it up - can't wait to see it!"thumbsup" Any idea on what theme or "sponsor" you're going with?
 
Does anyone have a link or source for a scale Trophy Truck floor jack? Not a high lift type, I have one of those. TT's tend to use a roller type jack. Can't find anything online other than one that looks 1/6 scale. (Like in the pic on the right side of the bed)
 

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Wish I could say I painted it but I bought it from Sikrides out of vegas. They used it for one of their builds only ran it a couple times and for photos but after seeing it in the shop I asked if it was for sale and the owner was nice enough to sell it to me. I’ll be going for the true scale tt build. The body was painted to match one of the local trophy truck race teams.
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I wanted to stay away from the typical monster energy, green and black theme that everyone is doing but couldn’t pass up the good deal on an almost new painted body


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Does anyone have a link or source for a scale Trophy Truck floor jack? Not a high lift type, I have one of those. TT's tend to use a roller type jack. Can't find anything online other than one that looks 1/6 scale. (Like in the pic on the right side of the bed)

The RC4WD one looks pretty true to scale in all the pics I've seen, though I'm sure you've already seen it: RC4WD Metal Hydraulic Jack $50 though! You'd want to remove the wheels and make a sand skid for the bottom still.

...I believe that Integy sells one too.
 
I wanted to stay away from the typical monster energy, green and black theme that everyone is doing but couldn’t pass up the good deal on an almost new painted body


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No doubt. Looks sick! I plan on taking mine more scale as soon as BGR Fab finally completes and releases their aluminum roll cage for the BR. I pinged them today on how they're coming on that project. No word back yet.

That said, I do like to run mine hard, so I'll probably end up with another RTR just to thrash on. Maybe the new Baja Rey XL!:shock:"thumbsup"
 
The RC4WD one looks pretty true to scale in all the pics I've seen, though I'm sure you've already seen it: RC4WD Metal Hydraulic Jack $50 though! You'd want to remove the wheels and make a sand skid for the bottom still.

...I believe that Integy sells one too.

Yeah, $50 is a bit steep! I would definitely plan on tweaking it with a sand skid, alternate color, and handle stowing if I pop for it.

I'll check Integy as well. Thanks!"thumbsup"
 
I was trying to replace my third member, but i think the grub screw on the rear end of the driveshaft stripped. What is the best course of action?

If i got a new set it seems I need to somehow still remove that stripped screw to retrieve the gear... I just saw the price of the stock driveshaft set: 60USD :(
 
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You need to heat the grub screw with a micro torch or wind proof lighter they used red thread-lock in the factory which can only be broken with heat and handtools , the best method Iv found is to clean the hex out of dust and dirt then hammer in a torx bit into it then heat it up and using as much pressure forcing into the screw slowly turn it , this should work , if I remember it’s a torx 8 that fits , if that doesn’t work you may have to drill it out which can be successful if your careful
Hope it works mate [emoji106]


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You need to heat the grub screw with a micro torch or wind proof lighter they used red thread-lock in the factory which can only be broken with heat and handtools , the best method Iv found is to clean the hex out of dust and dirt then hammer in a torx bit into it then heat it up and using as much pressure forcing into the screw slowly turn it , this should work , if I remember it’s a torx 8 that fits , if that doesn’t work you may have to drill it out which can be successful if your careful
Hope it works mate [emoji106]


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Did you get it out ?


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Have not tried yet i but hope I get round to it, it will be fine for the mean time, as the bearings in the third member are still fine. Just a shame since I was changing all the bearings in the rear and the ones I couldn't change are the most problem ones.

Im wondering, If I drill it out will I just need this: https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-baja-rey-center-outdrive-set-los232012/p501264 (Maybe this is the wrong parT? help out a newbie) or do i need to buy the full rear driveshaft
 
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