Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[Reyracer]

I need a little bit of help. I was wanting to get into rc for many many years and finally bought this truck. I heard from someone that later batches of baja rey they beefed up some of the parts, can anyone tell me which parts they improved and what differences it makes?

Also i want to know which parts are going to be most fragile and worth replacing asap? Im considering a set of fast eddy bearings although, being new, i feel it will be a challenge to install them. Also i was considering a SSD metal third member. I would like to hear opinions on that and basically the best parts to buy in order to make the truck more reliable. Thx.

 

[BAJAREY2017]

I think all they did was add gussets to the axle housing and put some foam on the motor plate to help keep dust out. Get the ssd third member and before you even run it replace all the bearings, It sucks to have to do that but it's worth it. you can get a fast eddy kit for $20. The stock bearings are horrible. Add a little grease to the front diff gears and rear pinion and you should be good to go. Also get an aluminium servo horn, the stock one wont last 5 min. If you can upgrade the servo, if not it should last a a little while. Mine made it about 6 weeks but that was using it every day. I'v had several rc's and just bought an arrma senton 6s and while its a blast i still favor my baja rey. As far as the work to replace all the bearings, its not that bad. Its a little more work then most trucks out there but i'm sure you can do it no problem. One more thing, get the ssd front diff, it's money well spent.

 

[Reyracer]

I think all they did was add gussets to the axle housing and put some foam on the motor plate to help keep dust out. Get the ssd third member and before you even run it replace all the bearings, It sucks to have to do that but it's worth it. you can get a fast eddy kit for $20. The stock bearings are horrible. Add a little grease to the front diff gears and rear pinion and you should be good to go. Also get an aluminium servo horn, the stock one wont last 5 min. If you can upgrade the servo, if not it should last a a little while. Mine made it about 6 weeks but that was using it every day. I'v had several rc's and just bought an arrma senton 6s and while its a blast i still favor my baja rey. As far as the work to replace all the bearings, its not that bad. Its a little more work then most trucks out there but i'm sure you can do it no problem. One more thing, get the ssd front diff, it's money well spent.

Is the front bulkhead gonna be a better replacement than the third member?

 

[fyrstormer]

Definitely need to replace the third member first. The bearings in the stock third member will wear out quickly even on 2S. The front bulkhead can wait, unless you're running a high power setup.

The wheel bearings have been fine for me. Still haven't replaced them.

 

[Reyracer]

Ok thanks everyone, to be safe I have ordered some bearings, and I'll get the third member with a better servo horn. For the servo horn will any 23T fit with the stock spectrum servo?

I'm looking at a samix 23T which says compatible with Sanwa, Airtronics, Ko Propo, JR

 

[BAJAREY2017]

I’m not familiar with that one, before I replaced my servo I was using a team associated servo horn. Just make sure the it’s the same length or you can get a TLR one for $10


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[c0bra]

Have any of you guys ever stripped the set screw for the rear driveshaft on the transmission side?

I’ve ground it down with a dremmel far enough that there is no way that the threaded part of the set screw is even there, and the rest of it still won’t come out!

Update: it finally came out.... but now the outdrive has to be replaced and the driveshaft as well...... I love rtr’s

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[Reyracer]

I’m not familiar with that one, before I replaced my servo I was using a team associated servo horn. Just make sure the it’s the same length or you can get a TLR one for $10


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I just ordered one that was under $3 called xtra speed, if it doesn't fit it won't be a big deal at that price :lmao:

 

[fyrstormer]

Have any of you guys ever stripped the set screw for the rear driveshaft on the transmission side?

I’ve ground it down with a dremmel far enough that there is no way that the threaded part of the set screw is even there, and the rest of it still won’t come out!

Update: it finally came out.... but now the outdrive has to be replaced and the driveshaft as well...... I love rtr’s

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Hasn't happened to me. But as a suggestion, use blue Loctite on that screw, not red Loctite. I often use red Loctite on screws in similar positions to make damn sure they never come loose by accident, but as you've discovered that screw is just a little too soft to handle the torque necessary to break-loose red Loctite.

In fact, if you use blue Loctite, loosen the screw a bit when the Loctite is half-cured, then re-tighten it, so the Loctite will be a little weaker.

 

[c0bra]

Hasn't happened to me. But as a suggestion, use blue Loctite on that screw, not red Loctite. I often use red Loctite on screws in similar positions to make damn sure they never come loose by accident, but as you've discovered that screw is just a little too soft to handle the torque necessary to break-loose red Loctite.

In fact, if you use blue Loctite, loosen the screw a bit when the Loctite is half-cured, then re-tighten it, so the Loctite will be a little weaker.

Yea I always use blue loctite on screws. Unfortunately I never actually put any on that screw as I wasn’t able to remove the driveshaft until the outdrive itself was cut through. So I have to replace the diff outdrive and rear driveshaft on a rc that has never been touched by a hex driver.

After seeing some of the suggested parts for this thing, and noticing that the front diff housing is ALREADY starting to split on this, and the electronics don’t even know what’s its like to have a battery plugged into them, I’m just going to replace the know week points of this once the yeti score is done. I’m also replacing all of the hardware/bearings and all of the electronics. As I’ve had bad luck with dynamite stuff in the past.

 

[BAJAREY2017]

I still have the stock motor and esc in mine and haven’t had a problem. The voltage cut off seems to be a little off though, I had it set for 3.4 but it was shutting down around 3.7 3.8. I changed it to 3.0 and according to both my chargers it still has 3.4 volts. Other then that it’s been trouble free after well over 100 packs ran through it.


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[Reyracer]

What servo replacements are best fitting for baja rey?

 

[BAJAREY2017]

I have the savox 1258, much faster then stock, doesn’t have a ton of torque but that’s fine with this truck. It handles much better as well, it’s definitely worth it


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[c0bra]

I still have the stock motor and esc in mine and haven’t had a problem. The voltage cut off seems to be a little off though, I had it set for 3.4 but it was shutting down around 3.7 3.8. I changed it to 3.0 and according to both my chargers it still has 3.4 volts. Other then that it’s been trouble free after well over 100 packs ran through it.


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Ok then I guess I’ll try it then. It’s been a few years since I’ve ran dynamite electronics. The last time I ran them, the motor and esc had a ton of trouble calibrating after just turning it on, that’s after it had several packs thru it.

I will just have to glue one of the ears back on the esc case, as it broke off after removing the mount screw.....


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[Reyracer]

I have the savox 1258, much faster then stock, doesn’t have a ton of torque but that’s fine with this truck. It handles much better as well, it’s definitely worth it


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Thanks ill keep it noted, seems like that servo has flawless reviews

 

[c0bra]

Got the center outdrives and a new rear driveshaft..... with Losi wanting so much $$$ for a plastic driveshaft, I’d hate to see what a steel one from them would cost


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[Reyracer]

today i received my fast eddy bearings. Is it normal for them to give a free set for free? I got my packaged bearings + stickers and also in envelope was a full extra set of bearings which weren't packaged.

 

[fyrstormer]

Yea I always use blue loctite on screws. Unfortunately I never actually put any on that screw as I wasn’t able to remove the driveshaft until the outdrive itself was cut through. So I have to replace the diff outdrive and rear driveshaft on a rc that has never been touched by a hex driver.

After seeing some of the suggested parts for this thing, and noticing that the front diff housing is ALREADY starting to split on this, and the electronics don’t even know what’s its like to have a battery plugged into them, I’m just going to replace the know week points of this once the yeti score is done. I’m also replacing all of the hardware/bearings and all of the electronics. As I’ve had bad luck with dynamite stuff in the past.

The Dynamite motor works great. I replaced the servo and ESC with my preferred brand, though. And obviously you have to use whatever brand of radio works with your controller.

 

[Reyracer]

I have been trying to run the baja rey today. Im using a 3s 7400mAh and it cuts off only after 10minutes? It seems too short. The esc will beep 3 times when turning it on after it lost its power.

 

[TheLetterJ]

WARNING: STUPID QUESTION AHEAD!

Did you charge the battery before putting it in?