• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

I'm gonna have to try that thanks! I'm just not sure where you're talking about putting the washer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



If you remove the cover plate then the motor mount , You have the slots either side where the motor mount slides into as it slides into its final position either side bumps upto a plastic flat , sit the washers onto the plastic housing then slide the motor mount down , the washers sit where the x’s are shown in the diagram
1b1f758cd76529d093295d4642c109a2.jpg

[emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A nice little thrash today on my backyard course. Just damo enough to. E slipp'n and slid'n around. What a freak'n hoot it was! Ran through 2 2s packs and 2 3s packs and no issues with the front diff. Gonna wait 'till it explodes and then upgrade to the SSD!"thumbsup"
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7169.jpg
    IMG_7169.jpg
    176.5 KB · Views: 2,162
I have it ran it yet cause I was waiting for the bulkhead but I'm going to run it this weekend


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yep, one of those front bulkheads is on my to-buy list for November. (I *hate* getting paid only once a month; I have to budget everything a month in advance.) That's the last weak spot in the Baja Rey's design that I haven't fixed yet. I'd like aluminum shocks too, but for some stupid reason nobody is making a set for this truck.
 
Ran a set of badlands on the rear just to see how they would do and they did really good so got some for the front. They hook up really good and can still slide it around. Not as scale as the desert claws but still look really good. Not sure if I like them as much as the gladiators, haven't ran them as a whole set yet but going to run a few packs on my day off this week.
01f92a300e478d7fa4b2605a22143f0a.jpg
c67ae1b1f3ce9802eacc11120783105b.jpg
cb623b2faa6da7285ed1f741733055df.jpg
087c722f53a5138d7dc033d05620a5a5.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Some more muddy, slippery shenanigans with the Baja Rey today! Truck is a total pain in the a55 to clean afterwards, but damn is it fun. I've set up some 10-15 foot drifts coming in hot to this back turn and just laughed out loud! "backin it in" as they say! Running the oem buddy for basher days like this, gotta keep the shelf queen clean and pristine!
 

Attachments

  • BR1.jpg
    BR1.jpg
    138.5 KB · Views: 2,079
  • TR1.jpg
    TR1.jpg
    176.2 KB · Views: 1,938
Ran a set of badlands on the rear just to see how they would do and they did really good so got some for the front. They hook up really good and can still slide it around. Not as scale as the desert claws but still look really good. Not sure if I like them as much as the gladiators, haven't ran them as a whole set yet but going to run a few packs on my day off this week.

The Raptor body turned out pretty sick!"thumbsup" I think i'm gonna have to go that route now that the Baja Rey bodies have increased in cost so much!
 
What kind of run time is everybody else getting with their Baja rey? I have my lipo cut off set at 3.4 and with all 3 of my gens ace 5000mah 50c batteries I get between 10-15 minutes at the most depending on how I drive it. Usually it's 10-12 which I thought was normal but I was told I should be getting 20-30. He thought my charger wasn't fully charging my batteries so he sold me a tester so after charging they were all at 4.2 per cell. So I went out and ran them and once the shut off kicked in I pulled the battery and checked and it's at 3.8 per cell! So I checked the cut off again and made sure and it's set at 3.4. So either my tester is off or the esc is wrong. I have a new one that horizon sent me after I bought it and thought about trying that one out. Has anybody else checked their lipos after shutdown?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How many mah's are your batteries taking when you charge them? The ESC's LVC will kick in even if there was just a momentary dip in the voltage supply. Mine was set at 3.4v and I'd always have at least 3.7v when it kicked in, so I set it to 3v and it's never gone below 3.4v. I get 30-40 minutes out of a 7200 3s, but it only takes 6700-6900 when I recharge.
 
I have a traxxas charger and it doesn't give a read out. I set mine at 3.0 so I'll see what happens. What kind of batteries are you running. I found an SMC 7600mah for $35. I will probably try that one out. Just looking for a little more run time and it's the same size as my gens packs so it will still fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just take out the one screw that holds the spacer in the battery compartment, remove the spacer, and the big 3s slides right in. Fits so perfect, it's like they were designed around each other. It was a bit of a pain soldering 10g wire into an EC3, but I got it done.
 
Wow. I would've stopped driving on 3S long ago if my truck was totaling its front diffs on a regular basis. But whatever, at least the front housing solves that problem. I'm looking forward to mine arriving, so I can finally have zero worry about repeatedly mashing the throttle on my Baja Rey.

A suggestion for fitting the front housing: Sand the mating surfaces of the two halves using ~400-grit emery paper, to make sure they're flat. That will minimize grease leakage and dirt intrusion. These aluminum parts are never milled perfectly, and they can't squish together to form a tight seal like plastic parts can.

EDIT: Actually, this part doesn't need the edges sanded. The inner edge of the diff housing has a lip on one side that fits into the other side, to form a tight seal. Sanding the edges *does* help with cheaper parts, though.
 
Last edited:
Wow. I would've stopped driving on 3S long ago if my truck was totaling its front diffs on a regular basis. But whatever, at least the front housing solves that problem. I'm looking forward to mine arriving, so I can finally have zero worry about repeatedly mashing the throttle on my Baja Rey.

A suggestion for fitting the front housing: Sand the mating surfaces of the two halves using ~400-grit emery paper, to make sure they're flat. That will minimize grease leakage and dirt intrusion. These aluminum parts are never milled perfectly, and they can't squish together to form a tight seal like plastic parts can.

Actually, I fitted it together and snugged it down prior to assembling to check that very thing. It looked about perfect. As an added precaution though, I used a small amount of silicone gasket sealer and smeared it around the mating surfaces. It's like a frog's ass now, water tight!
 
Yeah, mine just arrived and I see there's a lip on the inner edge of the diff housing on this part, so it doesn't actually need any sanding to achieve a tight seal. The two halves fit snugly enough that they stay together even without the screws installed, yet they aren't hard to separate either. That's a nice touch, and probably adds several dollars to the production cost of the part. Well done, SSD!

Now if someone would just make aluminum shock bodies for this damn truck...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top