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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

Everyone is going to have there own issues, mine happens to be bearings. I don't have front ring and pinion issues, trans or rear end issues like most. I'm still on my first set of ring and pinion and they barely now are starting to show some wear but I am still running them with no issues. I also converted mine to 2wd if you look back early on this thread you'll see my post and custom front axles. I've had mine since it came out. I won't try and Keyboard engineer my way into my approach, this is just something I am trying and just wanted to share. So far so good and this thing rips like it has never ripped before, the whole drivetrain just seems so free! To bad I can't post a vid, check out the BJ/ RR group in FB. Only time will tell but it's my belief/opinion the number one reason for premature bearing failure is lack of lubricant. I base this opinion on my findings when I dissembled the bearings for inspection.
 
I've had pretty good luck with my truck so far. I did pickup rear axle shafts and another front diff housing to have as spares be safe. Seems I also should have picked up two ring/pinion sets. Pretty lame parts support from Losi... hopefully the aftermarket picks up the slack.

EDIT: Took another look over at Hot Racing, they are adding a bunch of parts for the RR. May not be top tier parts but it is atleast something. Hopefully with time we will see more parts from them and of course from other manufactures too!
 
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So there I was, browsing youtube for baja rey goodness, and what happened? I watched Lana Del Rey videos. Lots of them. Will be watching more. Don't judge me, it could happen to you!
 
As promised, here's the Axial Method SCT wheels/BFGoodrich KR2 tires (Yeti SCORE) mounted on my Baja Rey using Vanquish .225" SLW hubs:

Side view (paint had already rubbed off from my last ebay tires/wheels and from running paddles):



Front view shows the 1/8" gain in ground clearance (tires are 1/4 taller than stock Losi Desert Claws):



Top view showing that the tires still tuck inside the fender, but stick out about 3/32" further per side:



The brake calipers fit just fine, but the stock M5 flanged locknuts are a little too tall so the nylon isn't fully on the threads. I'll keep looking for a low profile flanged nyloc, or ditch the flange, or just loctite these on.
 
I didn't like the way that a non-flanged m5 nut sat on the SLW hub (which has a huge bore, even the 5mm stubs fit in them like a hot dog in a hallway) so I bought these low profile flanged locknuts https://www.amainhobbies.com/rmrc-m...ck-nut-blue-4-rmrc-m5lowcwln-fl-rblue/p509056 . They are aluminum and only have a couple threads, so I was cautious when tightening them down. One asphalt run and they haven't flown off yet! I also got bored and used paint markers on the beadlock bolts (gold, turned out good) and tire sidewalls (red and blue, but the red looks pink, and the blue barely shows.) Looks cool on the shelf anyway.

 
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Yeah, I've been using flanged locknuts on all my RCs for years. They have more leverage to keep the wheels flat against the hexes.

For wheels with metal SLW hubs, I use flanged nuts *without* serrations, because the serrations can't dig into the metal hubs like they could dig into plastic wheels, and I tighten them with a stubby socket wrench instead of the ubiquitous RC 4-in-1 nut wrench. Tightening them with the stubby socket wrench guarantees they will never come loose -- but don't use it on plastic wheels or you'll tighten the nut straight through the wheel.
 
I never use those little 4-in-1 wrenches that come with rc's either, usually just a 1/4" drive ratchet to tighten wheel nuts to german torque specs. Fearing I'd hit redneck torque specs (go until it strips, then back it off 1/4 turn) I actually put my torque wrench to these thin (non-serrated) aluminum nuts. Even then, the 26 in lbs (3nm, most reliable spec I could find for m5 aluminum) sure didn't feel adequate. Like I said, they haven't flown off yet!
 
Since there is no Baja Rey pic thread, I guess I will post these here. Got a body painted by a great painter over on RCtech.net. It turned out awesome.





 
CAUTION! BOOK AHEAD:

I finally rebuilt my front diff a couple days ago after running for a month or more as a 2wd. I wanted to try rock rey gears in both ends, but since they are out of stock everywhere, I settled on another set of baja rey gears and a new front housing/bulkhead. Again, I used an entire tube of super glue to seal up the seam of the housing after I test assembled and shimmed a few times (ended up with .1mm between the gear and inner bearing, and .1mm between the outer bearing and dogbone drive cup this time) and packed it full of marine grease including the cavity between the pinion bearings. I also installed a hot racing twin hammers aluminum diff cup while I was in there (stock cup still looked fine, but I had already shredded the rear, and the front is a pain to get to, so it was more as a preventative measure) and new traxxas rubber sealed bearings (for no other reason than they were readily available) so both front and rear diffs are about as beefed up as can be with what's currently available.

I went out to the Pismo dunes on Sunday morning with my usual buddy, my two son's, and his son. I didn't borrow his paddles this time since the baja rey was now 4wd. It did not disappoint! I'm starting to question why I even built my other sand car since the baja rey does so well... as long as there is a little run-in leading to the climbs. I've got some Panther short course paddles and another pair of axial yeti score wheels in my shopping cart at tower hobbies right now, I can't wait to see how this truck does with tall paddles and 4wd.

I had two bad crashes out there though. We were mostly running near a very tall (for Pismo) dune that stood right around 100' tall. After going up a few times, I intended to barely jump off the lip and continue back down to the bottom, but what ended up happening was a 20' lawn dart followed by more rollovers than I could count. All I could do was watch. As it reached the bottom of the dune, it did one last slow motion roll back onto its wheels and it drove right out! Nothing damaged at all! Not 10 minutes later, my 4 year old was driving and I was shouting "slow down! Slow down!" and he proceeded to huck the baja rey off the top of the same big dune, but it dropped more like 30' down before starting it's roll overs all the way to the bottom. Again, it ended on its wheels, and he drove it up out of the bowl! Quite a spectacular show, and no damage at all!

I went to a dirt lot around the corner from my house this evening so my buddy could test out his slash, and my baja rey was getting awefully loud. He burnt up his brushed motor anyway, so I had no complaints about cutting our run short. When we got back to my house, I had my fingers crossed that it wasn't my front diff already, so I started inspection with the easy stuff by pulling the motor out. The problem was immediately positively identified, the 10mm trans bearings had exploded. I have new bearings here, but it sure would have been nice to have noticed a couple days ago when I already had the whole truck apart. I had given them the "wiggle test" and a quick shot of lube the other day, but of all the times I've had the diffs apart, I'd never changed the trans bearings. I think I'll see if there's anything to be gained by shimming while I have the transmission apart, but I think it was just those bearing's time to go.

I'm trying to decide if I should bite the bullet and throw another hot racing diff cup in the center diff too since the center diff is almost as big of a pain to get to as the front. I don't really want to just because it hasn't given me trouble, nor have I heard of anyone else breaking the center diff, and it doesn't see as much torque as the front/rear diffs since they have one more step of gear reduction. What would you do?
 
Iv just stripped my rock rey to bits to install HR diff cups throughout and when I got to the centre the ring gear that screws on to the cup , I noticed the bearing on the gear did not want to come off at all ,
looking very carefully at it I'm sure I could see the sleeve folded over it , after a fair bit of leverage I assumed it was attached and it felt smooth enough to leave it until it was due to be replaced ,

But this morning I saw a post on the RR fb page of someone who attempted leverage so much so it had snapped the sleeve clean off from the gear !!!

Even tho it clearly shows in the exploded diagram the bearing and gear as 2 parts ??? And also when sold as replacement part online you can clearly also see no bearing attached ,

I just switched the screws and put the HR cup back in my box ready for when it's finally needed , also because the gear is made of thicker material the countersink doesn't have a sharp bottom to it which I think is the main culprit for the shearing of diff screws in the first place [emoji106]

I think maybe heat would possibly be the best way to remove the bearing when needed next time though !


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The problem is losi using weak 2mm self tapping screws. They break and shread the cup. Ive seen people use 2.5mm machine thread in the stock cups.
 
The problem is losi using weak 2mm self tapping screws. They break and shread the cup. Ive seen people use 2.5mm machine thread in the stock cups.



Explain why the same screws used in the centre haven't sheared once then ? The thickness of the transmission gear is thicker therefore the countersink doesn't create a cutting edge at the bottom of the countersink and have a nice loadable edge , where as the both front and back aren't as thick and have this chisel edge effect which does cause the screws to shear !


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The front and rear diffs have 2.85 times as much torque going through them as the center diff sees because they also have one more step of gear reduction through the ring and pinion. Seems like a reasonable explanation to me? Whatever the case, I think I'll skip the aluminum center diff cup this time around and just put some fresh sealed bearings in. Surprisingly, the transmission gears don't look worn at all, even though there was bearing shrapnel banging around in there. Submitting my parts order now!
 
That's pretty scientific stuff man, how did you work that out ?? I'd love to know pardon my ignorance I'm not very good with that stuff but keen to learn [emoji106]


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I really can't believe how much better the BR drives compared to the Yeti Score. For some reason I gave my BR to my brother in law and wanted to build a new Yeti Score because of all the customization. Had it for all of a week threw in a Mamba X w a 3800kv sensored and it flew like a bat out of hell. However I just hated the way it drove thinking back fondly of my BR. So sold the entire kit and got another BR and even in stock form it's just a vastly superior platform. Here's my quick and dirty paint job over the top of the red stock scheme. Just sanded it down a bit and threw on some matte finish. Not bad for the stock body.

It's good to be back. Ordered the SSD Third Member to fix the rear end issue and I'll get some aluminum trailing arms when they are back in stock.
 
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The new paint job, replacing the already scraped off black/gunmetal paint above:

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Had another dune day yesterday. The Panther sct paddles straight up worked! I definitely like them better than the Proline Slingshots, and the Vaterra 50mm's (which I already liked better than the prolines.) Downside being that if you nail the throttle from a dead stop, they'll dig in where the other 2 paddles I tried would stay on top a bit better... but once you were moving, the Panthers would just about let the truck wheelie on command. It's crazy how fun it is to carve through a bowl with this truck.

I had my first run on a track today. As much as I love the Baja Rey, I seriously would have prefered a regular old slash out there. After 2 packs on the track (and maybe 4 packs prior to that) my front gears already stripped again. Come on aftermarket, build a new front housing already! I really wish I could find a pair of Rock Rey ring & pinions, so again, I think I'll hold out as long as I can in 2wd until they are available. Running 2wd again, I was struggling with setting up for jumps and I had a couple nasty tumbles which broke the front bumper and busted up the body quite a bit more. It was getting pretty ugly anyway, so it might be time for a new body... hot pink?
 
Damn, there's gotta be a reason your blowing those gears so quick. Good bearings and shimmed correct? Did you put in a new housing? I know braking really hard will ruin the gears quicker. Maybe your bearings are getting beat up from the sand and taking out the gears?
 
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