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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck
- Thread starter grunt95
- Start date
For the record, I never said you were slow. I said you looked slow in your videos. I have some practice laps of myself on video and I thought I was running pretty good, times were right towards the top qualifiers the night before. When I watched them it looked like I was running on sand.
On an on topic note. I have some pieces on the way to try out you may interested in.
Teaser pic of one,
More to come!
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
JEC racing? I was wondering when he was going to make some TA. 7075? Or did you go with SS?
I would have to change shock oil weight to run those, but id bet it would help balance out the trucks for bashers and help put more power to the ground.
and yes, those videos were before I put bad horsies diff lock in the center diff. so most of the power was at the front wheels. may be why it looked "slow". I dropped 2 full seconds off putting that stuff in my center diff. if you wanna try bad horsies diff lock, id get an extra diff to put it in. it would be very very hard to clean back out.
and yes, those videos were before I put bad horsies diff lock in the center diff. so most of the power was at the front wheels. may be why it looked "slow". I dropped 2 full seconds off putting that stuff in my center diff. if you wanna try bad horsies diff lock, id get an extra diff to put it in. it would be very very hard to clean back out.
I have some 1 mil in my RR right now to try as soon as the arms come back, probably going to 20 mil or some diff lock in it eventually though as I have some on the bench. The BR has taken a backseat for the time being. I just don't have enough hours in the day to mess with all of them. Since the BR is pretty nose heavy I figured the SS might help out an it and keep the CG low. We'll see what happens.
I just don't like unsprung weight. but if it works, it works. the bad horsies "diff-lock" I used more as a limited slip. its way thicker than 20 mil for sure. its so sticky... like 40 times as much as that Loctite stuff on trans cases.
Arctic Cat ZRT
Pebble Pounder
Since my Rock Rey will spend most of its time crawling and trailing I installed a twin hammers locker I had laying around. Took me a few minutes to get the 1 Million out that I had put in my center diff before. Right now my front has 1 million, that might turn out to be too light too.
greengoblin
Rock Crawler
Meanwhile
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
Nice. What else is coming out?
He can also do 7075 so barely any weight would be added.
greengoblin
Rock Crawler
In stock now get yours while you can
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
Yup, got mine ordered!
In stock now get yours while you can
Ordered."thumbsup"
CoolRunning
Rock Crawler
So can anyone give me a quick rundown of what I need to remove to pull the front and centre diffs to grease them?
I've done the rear but there is so much crap at the front, I'm not sure if I need to totally disassemble the front end to get at the diff.
Same with the centre diff...it looks like you have to pull the metal spine plate, rollcage, ESC etc etc...
Any info would be helpful as IFS is much more complicated to get at the diff than a solid axle.
I've done the rear but there is so much crap at the front, I'm not sure if I need to totally disassemble the front end to get at the diff.
Same with the centre diff...it looks like you have to pull the metal spine plate, rollcage, ESC etc etc...
Any info would be helpful as IFS is much more complicated to get at the diff than a solid axle.
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
For the center diff, you can pull the roof, top part of the cage and interior and get to everything there. I haven't pulled the front apart but IFS is usually a pain and time consuming. Have fun. Lol
take the whole cage off, then the esc plate, front bumper, pull the top u shaped pin, front shock tower, then the top chassis plate (don't lose those short screws!) then you should be able to take the front diff out. the center diff you don't need to take the plate off but your doing the front anyway right?
for the center diff by itself just the cage and esc plate along with the motor needs to come out. that's it. it takes some finess to move it but its simple.
for the center diff by itself just the cage and esc plate along with the motor needs to come out. that's it. it takes some finess to move it but its simple.
delrin links with a weight system. :shock: for those who want more or less weight!
It's a lot of screws and takes a bit of time unless you use and electric driver. Makes it quick and easy. Just make sure not to torque them down with it as they may strip. Run them most of the way and finish them up by hand.
Or just make the channel larger on the 7075 and have a brass insert you could drop in. If you wanted to tune the weight of the trailing arms, not sure it's really going to make much of a difference but a small advantage is still an advantage I guess.