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Life of one YETI - Tom Frajer's Axial Yeti build log

Just made servo link as you guys suggested. I bought long M4 threaded screw and cut off the head to have a lenght same as stock link. I used short RPM rod ends. This seems way more robust and Im sure it will last long time. Thanks for great tip!

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color looks great "thumbsup" looks like there are silver flacs in.
i had to put them extra on mine :x

want to see the hole thing ;-) and how liquid mask did it over all
 
If you have access to a spray gun, use it for the liquid mask. It gives a much smoother surface to work with. I spray 3-4 coats of it. Dries quicker too
 
i used liquid crep worked ok for the body.
but for the interieur it covered good but was a mess to remove. especially on the drivers......

if you have problems to remove the cover stuff a ereaser pencil worked great for me on the drivers

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It is StardustColors Chameleon paint. One that I picked is CS32 Liquid Crystal Blue/Green. PREDILUTED CHAMELEON SPRAYCAN - 400ML

Cames premixed in a spraycan so you do not have to mess with colors and just spray it over :) It is expensive as hell (cannot imagine to do 1:1 big car with this), but for me unique look of my Yeti is one of most important aspects of whole thing!

color looks great "thumbsup" looks like there are silver flacs in.
i had to put them extra on mine :x

want to see the hole thing ;-) and how liquid mask did it over all
 
Unfortunately NO. I do not have this equipment. When I started with this hobby one month ago, I did not had single screwdriver :-D Had to bought EVERYTHING so i spend crazy money on garage equipment alone. I'm computer guy, not garage guy. :lmao:

Anyway why bother with a spraygun if, according to my test, using big brush and single layer of this Bitty Design liquid mask works perfectly...

If you have access to a spray gun, use it for the liquid mask. It gives a much smoother surface to work with. I spray 3-4 coats of it. Dries quicker too
 
i just had the silver flacs on shelf. cause of a wrong purchase. thought it is silver with flacs.... and then i came to the idea to put it in my neon green but i didn't mixed the colors just a layer flacs then a layer green and so on.

oh yeah the tools..... spend a lot on them also ... 5€ here 10€ there and then .....
same as our upgrades :mrgreen:
as i started with the little monster, i decided i will never count it together and if something breaks i want the best available"thumbsup"
 
Today I swapped bevel gear in rear axle to Axial Heavy Duty Underdriven. Thick teflon grease is holding up well. I will use it again.

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Unfortunately I was not able to straighten bent shaft (happened during first 30 minute 3S run). I was hammering it and it bent elsewhere :-D Maybe my mistake. To much beer [emoji13] waiting for replacement from Vanquish - it is already on the way and should arrive next week. Also waiting for CREEPERBOB's titanium shafts, but it will probably take longer time to deliver as he have to cut them first...

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I also swapped swaybar (AX31058) so I finally have threaded right end (threading was missing from factory on my RTR) and I put my Boom Racing alu swaybar on. I was using aluminium parts on the left and plastic on the right because I was afraid that I loose untreaded right side...
 
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Just had a thought here... What offset hubs are you using? Before I got the wide axle kit, I was running 600s and suffered a few bent axle shafts. The higher offset hubs put excessive strain on the axle stub. With the SSD wide kit and 185 hubs, I havent bent a shaft since.
 
Just had a thought here... What offset hubs are you using? Before I got the wide axle kit, I was running 600s and suffered a few bent axle shafts. The higher offset hubs put excessive strain on the axle stub. With the SSD wide kit and 185 hubs, I havent bent a shaft since.
Im already suspecting this. Have 850 SLW hubs :) I'm waiting for 725's - hope this will be short enough with centered Currie axle to not bend. I want widest setup possible...
 
Heavy duty bevel gears are now installed both in front and rear. In this occasion I also changed all bearings to ceramic FastEddy bearings. Yesterday replacement rear axle shafts arrived from Vanquish, bit I will not run it until shorter 725 hubs come in (do not want to bend these again).

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Still had no luck with right C Block. Vanquish sent me replacement for bad one (factory defect) bud they did sent LEFT C Block instead of RIGHT. I checked my outgoing mail and I wrote very simply and correctly that I will need RIGHT side. OK this can happen - hope they will send me correct one and I can keep this one as a well deserved reserve [emoji13]

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If this rod ends didn't last. What I didn't hope.
Never have issue of breaking rodends till now.

Found some from rc4wd at my Austrian Dealer, description say that they will fit axial.

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if it starts moving during the runs you can use a zip tie to holt it in place. that's how my fan is fixed to the motor.

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