Life of one YETI - Tom Frajer's Axial Yeti build log

[TomFrajer]

Today I finished front end and breaked into the rear once again to swap bevel gear back to stock. I wanted overdriven gears on both front and rear but Boom racing bevel did not fit well to the front. Axial HD on rear was OK but I do not wanted to have overdtiven rear and standard front - that is why I swapped rear back to stock.

Here is my rig ready for tommorow's run:

 

[TomFrajer]

Next test run was OK. Again some broken rod ends. RPM rod end on rear uper link lasted longer but they will still break. I again stripped plastic rod end on servo rod. This is my servo saver for now. I placed longer rod end that was among spares from Axial and it holds up. Finished 8000 mAh pack running hard on dirt asphalt and grass - no other problems.

 

[TomFrajer]

Last Integy upgrade installed. This one was pretty easy

Now I am waiting for two underdriven heavy duty Axial bevel gears and then break both front and rear once again to install them. Next thing is painting my Baja Bug Body and adressing weak plastic rod ends. I will look for metal ones...

 

[TomFrajer]

Another pack went well. No damage at all this time. Bashing it hard! Wet asphalt is lot of fun

Time to put 3 cells in?

By the way, here is my sticker collection. I cannot wait to start work on my body!

 

[Fanatic]

Beautiful Rig! Jealous man, thought id seen the best out there then bam.
Made up " bomb proof " steering link for ya, rpm long arms, traxxas 3mm steel balls, 4mmx 25mm steel threaded rod, warning... wouldn't use unless your servo and servo arm are strong enuf for this set up or still have a servo saver in place. No weak links left to break inline now .
Before and after of stock, plus replacement end and after Monster RPM link.
Btw? What body are you planing on using, too gorgeous of a build to leave stock.

 

[Fanatic]

Next to Axial supplied hardware seems a bit overkill but in a U4 Race you find out how tough your rig is, this was first piece to break on mine. Hasn't again since the upgrade.

 

[TomFrajer]

Beautiful Rig! Jealous man, thought id seen the best out there then bam.
Made up " bomb proof " steering link for ya, rpm long arms, traxxas 3mm steel balls, 4mmx 25mm steel threaded rod, warning... wouldn't use unless your servo and servo arm are strong enuf for this set up or still have a servo saver in place. No weak links left to break inline now .
Before and after of stock, plus replacement end and after Monster RPM link.
Btw? What body are you planing on using, too gorgeous of a build to leave stock.

Hi!
Thank you for tips, I already stared some research for strenghtening my weak parts. Steering is OK until I went through some deep hole or hit hard some big bump or jup. I found this and will check if dimensions are correct and then order it: 2pcs Aluminum Front/Rear Servo Link Steering For Rc Hobby Model Car 1/18 Wltoys A959 A969 A979 K929 Upgraded Hop Up Parts-in Parts & Accessories from Toys & Hobbies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

More of a problem is rear end. Vanquish should have really thought-out more theri rear upper linkage. It is titanium that never bend but you will keep breaking longer rod ends. Went through another pack yesterday - that is second without damage, but both RPM rod ends are bend and feels like they will crack upon looking on them :-D Have to change them anyway.

So if you (or someone) knows about good metal longer rod ends to replace RPM ones (they are traxxas TRA5525 type) I will appreciate any advice.

As my new body I already have clear Baja Bug lying on the shlef. Thinking about details of my paint job, but seem like I will use some chameleon paint on it

 

[TomFrajer]

I did not resisted temptation and just ordered this pack: ANTIX by LRP 4300 - 11.1V - 45C LiPo Car Hardcase | Product | LRP Home

More destruction is coming! :twisted:

 

[TomFrajer]

I also decided for main color that I will use on my Baja Bug body. It will be this chameleon Green / Blue: https://youtu.be/jS8r28tkq0I?t=36s

I will also use black and white colors together with hand painted acrylic theme. I already have the idea and will start painting soon. Stay tuned!

 

[TomFrajer]

This shown up today. Two complete sets of FastEddy bearings. One set of ceramic and one standard set (spares). I will start replacing stock bearings with ceramic ones on the go when there will be need to disassemble something...

 

[magic_yeti]

Nice. You will need it if you go 3s.....[emoji41]
can't wait to see your paint job...... would you paint it out side or inner side?[emoji39]


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[TomFrajer]

Nice. You will need it if you go 3s.....[emoji41]
can't wait to see your paint job...... would you paint it out side or inner side?[emoji39]


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Painting only inner side! Otherwise it gets scratched. I will use tramsparent liquid masking foil, then cut some out and spray it. I will record video of this as I thing it will be iseful to others. I was painting pictures some time ago with acrylics and will do some abstract handpainting on the body combining it with sprayed chameleon paint and black and white stripes. I hope it will end up well as this is first time Im doing this...

 

[magic_yeti]

good luck. mine was my second one. i like this part.[emoji4] as you can see on my thread [emoji3] .
the only thing i can say take your time.

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[TomFrajer]

good luck. mine was my second one. i like this part.[emoji4]
the only thing i can say take your time.

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Yes, it needs lot of patience and time. I will not hurry as I do not want to ruin the body. I watched lot of how-to's - this one is great and covers all what is needed to know: https://youtu.be/7vlh0W0Apm0

Rest is up on your creativity and on your hands

 

[Fanatic]

Spoke with Dan i think ,from Vanquish one day in Auburn and he said to run "Currie length links " on the rear axle like yours, you get back to using the short rod ends that way andbstop breaking them, however i do not see them obviously listed on the site, maybe call or send an email out to that request and see where it goes. Can't hurt to ask.
Im still using a beefed up ar60 until I break it, and waiting for more F60 " diamond " types to be released. and waiting and waiting. ..

 

[TomFrajer]

I will go with aluminium rod ends for now - looks better IMO. I will change all of the rod ands on all links (even front ones) to silver aluminium rod ends - that will look cool and should last forever

Found these longer for rear upper links:
M3 Long Straight Aluminum Rod Ends (Silver) (10)

And these as replacement for standard shorter rod ends:
High Precision Billet Tie Rod End (M3) Silver (10)

Not sure if they fit well. I have to do some more research and measurements.

Also not sure what rods to use for servo link. They are smaller, so maybe this?
Aluminum Micro M2 Rod End with Stainless Steel Ball (10)

Spoke with Dan i think ,from Vanquish one day in Auburn and he said to run "Currie length links " on the rear axle like yours, you get back to using the short rod ends that way andbstop breaking them, however i do not see them obviously listed on the site, maybe call or send an email out to that request and see where it goes. Can't hurt to ask.
Im still using a beefed up ar60 until I break it, and waiting for more F60 " diamond " types to be released. and waiting and waiting. ..

 

[TomFrajer]

Ooops, completely mistaken. As I said, I have to do some more research. If anyone can help with this I will be more than happy

Founhd this:

So I will need M4 rods:
Longer: M4 High Precision Billet Tie Rod End w/Ball Lip (Silver) (10)
Short: M4 Thread 25mm Length Link Rod End Ball Head Holder Tie rod end 3mm hole for RC car 2pcs Aluminum hop up upgraded parts-in Parts & Accessories from Toys & Hobbies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

and M3 for steering link?

Here is good thread about rod ends: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chit-chat/532697-rod-ends.html

Spoke with Dan i think ,from Vanquish one day in Auburn and he said to run "Currie length links " on the rear axle like yours, you get back to using the short rod ends that way andbstop breaking them, however i do not see them obviously listed on the site, maybe call or send an email out to that request and see where it goes. Can't hurt to ask.
Im still using a beefed up ar60 until I break it, and waiting for more F60 " diamond " types to be released. and waiting and waiting. ..

 

[shiftauto]

When/how are you breaking rod ends? Are they just letting go on you or is it due to a crash, flip, roll? I have yet to mess up a rod end with my TI links, launching my yeti like crazy. The only one I've stripped was on the steering linkage.

 

[TomFrajer]

When/how are you breaking rod ends? Are they just letting go on you or is it due to a crash, flip, roll? I have yet to mess up a rod end with my TI links, launching my yeti like crazy. The only one I've stripped was on the steering linkage.

They start bending downward towards the rear axle ans then crack between the ball and end of the threading (where link is ending inside the rod end). I have my rear upper links mounted to lowest mounting position on the body. I changed this some time ago and will try to switch it to the uppermost mounts to see if this helps to.prevent breakage. Last time I run through two packs (I use LRP outlaw 8.7V 2S 8000 mAh packs - around 40-50 minutes of run time on each) and rod ends are holding up, they just started bending. I think they are breaking during fipovers. Last two packs I ran on wet asphalt skidding around - it was hard to flip it on the roof due to wet conditions. When it is dry, I can flip easily and Im able to break rod end in 10 minutes. Interesting is that I always break rod end on the right side. But now both are bent... will post picture tommorow.

 

[shiftauto]

Are they threaded all the way into the rod ends? Hope you get it sorted out. All of my breaks have been stock parts, axle housing, driveshaft, steering linkage, servo horn. Now that I said that I'll probably breake something important.haha