Life of one YETI - Tom Frajer's Axial Yeti build log

[TomFrajer]

After my last ride there was problem with throttle and steering lagging and stuttering. I swapped receiver to rule this out, but it was still same. Then I suspected worst thing happened - ESC broken. I later swapped ESC to confirm this, but fortunately, problkem was not caused by faulty ESC Last piece that I left in the setup was Castle Link Quick Connect - and that was the fauty part! I just get it out from the rig, connected ESC directly to receiver and it works! Im very happy that it was not problem with ESC "thumbsup"

And what was the cause of the problem? Try to guess... it was water again :-D Leaking under Quick Connect board isolation.

Im also waiting for lighting setup. Ordered HeyOK controller and some LEDs. Will put this together with new body.

Everything is waterproof now. Servo, ESC, motor are good from factory, they already survived few wet runs. Receiver is waterproofed by me (liquid electric tape) and holds up well too. This quick connect was one thing I did not take proper care of. I do nod need it as everything is already set and I do not need to change any ESC settings often so I drop this part off.

Moving all electronics to fuell cell is exactly what Im thinking about and I will do it for sure as there is more space in there. I will put there lights controller too.

Upper rear links are no problem now. Cutting longer rod ends a little and putting these on both ends solved my problem.

Bending shafts... shorter wheel hubs definitely helped here. But I still can see some light wobble on my wheels. I can live with this because it is barely noticeable and you cannot fit stronger (larger diameter) shafts there.

Otherwise Im very happy with my build so far. Only need to do my bodypaint and lights and it will be finished

 

[TomFrajer]

So the solution for your water problem is one of two things:

1. Move RX to fuel cell and make sure it's properly sealed. May place inside of a balloon, too, just to add that extra level of protection.

2. No more water runs.

Glad to see you're no longer breaking rod ends at the rear axle, though. I still think you should consider ordering the DLux upper links to completely fix the issue, but totally up to you. I've never broken a rod end that way and I beat the shit out of my Yeti when I run it. I run a beefed up AR60 with Beef Tubes and a DLux G10 truss. Broke the carbon fiber truss due to my faulty mounting. I do bend the hell out of axle shafts, though! Have a new long side shaft going in as soon as I sit down and do the wrenching.

Great build, though! "thumbsup"

btw I love water runs!

 

[TomFrajer]

Four packs, 2 hours of fun, no (visible) damage.

 

[TomFrajer]

 

[TomFrajer]

Broken hex pin.

Torn tire.

Used tire VS new one.

Rebuilding front end.

Worn front diff outputs.

Freshly rebuilt shocks.

Freshly rebuild front diff bulkhead.

 

[magic_yeti]

Nice to hear from you. Last week i just thought long time no updates from you and a few days later.
Glad to hear that you get your axle issues solved.

i see you can also break pins [emoji48] .

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[TomFrajer]

 

[TomFrajer]

Back in race condition

 

[TomFrajer]

Very good info here: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axia...-bushings-vs-bearings-vs-bushings-thread.html

Whole lightning setup is on the way already. I ordered HEYOK light controller, couple of red and white LEDs and Vanquish Rigid 4" light bar (that should be direct bolt on fit inside under Yeti roof - I made my measures and found confirmation here on the forum). Once it arrives I will relocate all electronics (including receiver) into the fuel tank and will drill holes to he bottom of the fuel tank so any water can quickly escape out of my waterproofed electronics.

 

[magic_yeti]

To get the wires to the fuel Box i use a diffrent way.
Easy to made and holds waterout of it.

I used silicon glue and silicon tube for it.
First cut a straight gap into the Box round 3 mm width for the Cable to get in. Than cut the Silicon Tube in 2 halfs and put it with the inner side outside into the gap, like the Silicon Peace die the Receiverbox.
Put the cables throu and seal it with the silicon glue. Mine is like waterproof after installing the Hot Racing cover. Never found water in it. As you can See on the Pics.

Even my electronics is waterproof i like it dry for it [emoji41] Just in case [emoji48]


sent by magic_yeti

 

[TomFrajer]

I do not believe that your solution will not let any wather in. My experience is that some water always finds its way in no matter how you isolate the hole for wiring. Then problem is that this leaked water evaporates veeeeeeryyyyy sloooowly. That is how I came to my solution. I want let water go easily in and easily out so it will dry in couple of hours, not days. I use liquid electrical tape and shrinks to waterproof each component or connection separately. I think this will be great solution. I want to have submarine :-D I like to wash dirt and mud out of my yeti after each dirty run. My Yeti gets regular baths and showers! :-D

 

[magic_yeti]

love to submarine mine too (see yeti car wash pics[emoji4]) and i clean it regulary under the shower. So far no water found it's way into the fuel box.
And it keeps mud away....

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[TomFrajer]

Whooops. Titanium - not in my house!

 

[TomFrajer]

I just replaced rear axle shafts. It is pain that you have to dissasemble diff housing to get shafts out, but I can live with that. I have another pair of spare shafts and I will keep replacing them. I usually bend only one at a time and Im able to straighten some of them at least once.

There is some more tuning on the way.

1, Replace Boom Racing rear trailing arms with better Blue Money - hope rod ends will not break on this - but they are short rod ends so it should be fine. I also ordered Blue Monkey rear upper arms so I will not have to cut (shorten) rod ends for Vanquish upper arms that Im currently using. I want it nice and sleek.

2, I will replace all smaller diff (front and rear) bearings with Mini Loco bushings.

3, I do not like Vanquish titanium front links. They are bombproof, but not adjustable and I do not have best front wheel alignment. I decided to change front links to traxxas TRA3643 turnbuckles - cheap and adjustable. We will see how well they will hold - I can always return to Vanquish.

4, Body and lights - waiting for complete lightning setup and will start working on it once it arrives.

5, I also do not like Vanquish ANTIROCK swaybar - on hardes setting it is still bit soft and I want something stiffer as Im running hi-speed most of the time :-D I already have boom racing swaybar and I liked it more than Vanquish - will use this together with stiffest axial swaybar link.

 

[magic_yeti]

Nice plans. i'm curious how the shorter wheel base will effect high speed handling.
Good choise on the trx links, i'm happy with mine.

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[TomFrajer]

 

[TomFrajer]

Two of my favorite hill climb spots. These are real challenge for Yeti and lot of fun!

 

[TomFrajer]

Bought Dremel 4000 today and I was able to easily remove both stripped screws that I had on my Yeti.

 

[Jeep757]

Bought Dremel 4000 today and I was able to easily remove both stripped screws that I had on my Yeti.

I've got to do the same to a screw that rounded out on the front a-arm

 

[TomFrajer]

I've got to do the same to a screw that rounded out on the front a-arm

Yes, it is most effective way - just dremel it a little and then unscrew with flat screwdriver. Fast but expensive. I used some tiny 1mm diamond bits from Proxxon. Said to work with hardened steel and other hard materials. Two screws, two bits destroyed [emoji13] But they cost only $5 both together. Better than to be not able to dissasemble Yeti or destroy some parts when trying it hard way...