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Land Rover Series 1
- Thread starter cooper_xl
- Start date
Sounds interesting but maybe we are pretty far away from each other. I'm from Portugal
Awww man, i didn't realize you lived abroad. Anyway, since thats tha case, it's more than likely cheaper for you to buy your own locally/online.
no worries. Thanks anyway. It was useful because I've only searched for the green wheels and the black ones are a different part number. Opens more options
A common theme in my builds is being slow. So, after the failure of the initial plan of using RocHobby Willys' chassis, this build will need everything besides the body . One of them is axles. I don't want to spend money on some axles that don't suit the build and I have several OG scx10 diffs without housings. Started modelling a front axle to resemble early LR axles, to use those diffs and AR44 steering knuckles. They have 7º caster and 7º kingpin angle. Had to order AR44 universals too. They have to be modified to the right length. I've put the pumpkin at the correct offset
Now I need to figure out the leafs to integrate those dimensions in the design before printing
Now I need to figure out the leafs to integrate those dimensions in the design before printing
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Slow, but cool build!
Thanks!
This is how the axle looks on the truck, minus the steering knuckles and wheels
This is my first try on printing the 3rd member. In PETG-CF. It needs a touch on the design and a couple more hours drying the filament before printing
Sorry for not posting much but there's progress behind the curtains:
I think axles are done,design wise. Axles were stalled because I needed the spring for the leaf springs. Got that last Saturday and could finish the 3D model. Printed the front axle to assemble and get the width with the knuckles, hexes,etc to translate to the rear axle. Printed also a rear axle and added drum brakes
The plan was to modify stock straight shafts
ut one shorter and one longer. Preferred to do a set from scratch and leave modifications to the set of AR45 shafts that got for the front. I'm doing that as soon as the open diff arrives
Shafts:
Did this quick cutter to correct the diff bearings' seats. 3D printing left a slight radius on them and diff won't seat on position. Now it does and have that extra space to shim it
This is the rear axle
Also did a u-bolt to see how it went
I think axles are done,design wise. Axles were stalled because I needed the spring for the leaf springs. Got that last Saturday and could finish the 3D model. Printed the front axle to assemble and get the width with the knuckles, hexes,etc to translate to the rear axle. Printed also a rear axle and added drum brakes
The plan was to modify stock straight shafts
ut one shorter and one longer. Preferred to do a set from scratch and leave modifications to the set of AR45 shafts that got for the front. I'm doing that as soon as the open diff arrivesShafts:
Did this quick cutter to correct the diff bearings' seats. 3D printing left a slight radius on them and diff won't seat on position. Now it does and have that extra space to shim it
This is the rear axle
Also did a u-bolt to see how it went
The doors were postponed for a while now. Wanted to do the closing mechanism but in the sake of finishing stuff, it will had a fake latch and the door will be held by magnets
The door's frame is 3D printed, as the hinges and it is covered with a 0.17mm thick aluminium sheet as a homage to the construction of Land Rovers since the first ones. Also gives a flimsy feel to touch and they will be unpainted on the inside
The door's frame is 3D printed, as the hinges and it is covered with a 0.17mm thick aluminium sheet as a homage to the construction of Land Rovers since the first ones. Also gives a flimsy feel to touch and they will be unpainted on the inside
Very cool.
Took a 15x15mm steel tube and cut a 8mm section. Bent and brazed the ends to be rounded
Brazed 4 tabs for the screws. This is the underside - not enough space for a scale bolt, would hit the spring's shackle
Bent some rings on 2mm wire and brazed them
It just needs to have a small detail on the front but I'm pretty happy with it right now
Brazed 4 tabs for the screws. This is the underside - not enough space for a scale bolt, would hit the spring's shackle
Bent some rings on 2mm wire and brazed them
It just needs to have a small detail on the front but I'm pretty happy with it right now
I'm struggling to make the leaf springs but I'll get there eventually. I need them for putting the frame on it's wheels to mock-up the drivetrain. I've printed fake leafs for that purpose.
But today I had a different idea to do because my "simple build" plan went down the drain
The bonnet was one of the first things I've printed. It is rather thick to be strong and hold the headlights because it was meant to be glued to the other sections:
Wouldn't be cool if the bonnet was made of metal and could be shown when opened?
So I've modified the 3d model to make a quick mold, softened a 0.9mm aluminium sheet and hand formed this piece
Let's see if I can pull this off but I love how it looks in place
But today I had a different idea to do because my "simple build" plan went down the drain
The bonnet was one of the first things I've printed. It is rather thick to be strong and hold the headlights because it was meant to be glued to the other sections:
Wouldn't be cool if the bonnet was made of metal and could be shown when opened?
So I've modified the 3d model to make a quick mold, softened a 0.9mm aluminium sheet and hand formed this piece
Let's see if I can pull this off but I love how it looks in place
Wow this continues to impress!
For leaf springs, you can use the recoil spring from a lawn mower engine pull start. Or you can start with a spring from a Sawback, TF2, etc.
For leaf springs, you can use the recoil spring from a lawn mower engine pull start. Or you can start with a spring from a Sawback, TF2, etc.
Thank you. I have one of those springs. Went to a parts suppliers to get one narrow and soft. The difficult part is to roll the ends and be on the right length. But last Friday I asked a more experienced coworker to try doing one and he nailed it perfectly. Just need 3 more
I was in the mood to take care of the drivetrain: I have a RC4WD Helios 2s transfer case that was on the Unimog but took it off when doing the torquetubes. Due to it's big size, can't use on any build. But on this chassis there's plenty of space
Downside is that the Helios is upside down because of the location of the input and outputs
First, shaped a 2mm steel sheet to make a skidplate to hold the Helios. Then I could start on a metal bracket to hold the gearbox. This gearbox has a strange shape that don't fit easily. Also has weak mounts(already broke one housing before even driving the LC70) so the brackets I had to make would have servo rubber mounts. Did some tries but scratched the idea because it had to be very precise. Instead did 3D brackets in TPU. It is hard rubber but has some dampening
I'm waiting on the gear shift servo to figure how to mount it
Hi!
I asked a fellow builder and owner of a Series 1 for measurements of the hood hinges and he provided! Thanks for the precious help
I've tried to do them as accurate as possible.
3D printing was not off the table but can't beat metal on these small and thin pieces
I have several small hinges for the arts and crafts but no one suited so first took a piece of 2mm brass and brazed to 2mm steel wire:
Then, rolled 0.5mm brass sheet around 2mm wire:
First time doing something like this!
Shaped to size and bent to shape and angle:
M2 scale bolts:
Opted to do slits on the bulkhead, mock everything and glue with a powder that becomes rock hard with cyano glue:
WORKS!
It is one more of my small updates. Thanks to everyone that follow and sorry for each one of my projects take so long. I'm not a pro builder but I like building(more even than driving the rigs) and it is the only activity that soothes my mind....
I asked a fellow builder and owner of a Series 1 for measurements of the hood hinges and he provided! Thanks for the precious help
I've tried to do them as accurate as possible.
3D printing was not off the table but can't beat metal on these small and thin pieces
I have several small hinges for the arts and crafts but no one suited so first took a piece of 2mm brass and brazed to 2mm steel wire:
Then, rolled 0.5mm brass sheet around 2mm wire:
First time doing something like this!
Shaped to size and bent to shape and angle:
M2 scale bolts:
Opted to do slits on the bulkhead, mock everything and glue with a powder that becomes rock hard with cyano glue:
WORKS!
It is one more of my small updates. Thanks to everyone that follow and sorry for each one of my projects take so long. I'm not a pro builder but I like building(more even than driving the rigs) and it is the only activity that soothes my mind....
So, I was pretty disappointed on how the printed windshields turned out. The shape is not fair for a FDM printer . So I've choose the other path: suffering
Took some 5mm, sorry, 3/16 brakeline(which scales nicely to the 1:1),straighten it and brazed it together
I think it fits well
To fill that lower space,needed a long strip of thin metal . What did I've found on the workshop? an old hacksaw blade. Didn't need much work to fit
Next, it will be the 2 mounts and the glass frame is also being taken care
Took some 5mm, sorry, 3/16 brakeline(which scales nicely to the 1:1),straighten it and brazed it together
I think it fits well
To fill that lower space,needed a long strip of thin metal . What did I've found on the workshop? an old hacksaw blade. Didn't need much work to fit
Next, it will be the 2 mounts and the glass frame is also being taken care
