K7ZPJ's Green Rubi with Portal Axles

[k7zpj]

Here's the new rig making its first run on the first day of the new year. To make the build a little more interesting than just another SCX-10 JK, I decided to do the build with R1 Portal Axles.




I started out last fall doing a mockup using all thread links to get the axle placement and wheel base set correctly for the Rubicon body. Overall the portal axle is providing about 1/2 of an inch more ground clearance for pumpkin than the stock SCX10 axles.





Due to the location of the servo mount on the R1 axle, I had to use a CMS setup. I started out with the Blue Monkey DIY CMS kit and fabricated a custom panhard rod and mounted it to the top of the R1 link mount. Iused a single top link to 3-link the front axle.

I replaced the stock chubs, steering knuckles and dog bones with the Gmade aluminum option parts and cvds to improve the steering. The aluminum chubs also reduces the flex of the axle shafts which should help improve the life of the 5x8x2.5mm bearings used in the portals.

I also replaced all of the stock R1 bearings with bearings from FastEddyBearings.com due past experiences with the stock R1 bearings.



I used a 4-link setup on the rear axles. On both the front and rear axles the stock upper and lower link mounts were replaced with aluminum link mounts to reduce flex and provide better clearance for the shocks.

The lower mounts were swapped side to side and mounted upside down to provide better adjustment for the link and shock mounting locations. The rear stock lockouts were replaced with the Gmade aluminum lockouts along with the FastEddy Bearings.


I used a MMP with a Tekin Roc412 2300 for the motor/ESC. Must be my Jeep roots showing, but I really like it with the top off. I just had to throw in the official flex shot but will probably get points off due to the SCX-10 crawling up a Diet Coke can instead of a beer can. :lmao:




Issues and Stuff Still To Do.

1) I am having problems with the pan hard rod hitting the servo mount and the servo case with the BMRC CMS kit .

2) The portals raise the center of the axle and the link mounts about 5/8 of inch higher than a SCX10 axle. I tried softer springs to add droop but I don't like having ultra-soft springs. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

3) Relocate battery to the front once pan hard and shock issues are resolved.

4) Ideas ?



Current Setup

Front Axle
Gmade R1 Rock Buggy Portal Axle (GM51100)
Adjustable Aluminum Link Mount for R1 Axle (GM51102S)
Aluminum C-Hub Carrier 7 Degree for R1 Axle(GM51121S)
One Piece Knuckle Arm for R1 Axle (GM51105S)
Front Drive CVA Kit for R1 Axle (GM51114S)
8 ea. 5x11x4 Rubber Sealed bearing Fasteddybearings.com (MR115-2RS)
8 ea. 5x8x2.5 5x8x2.5 Rubber Sealed Bearing Fasteddybearings.com (MR85-2RS)

Rear Axle
Gmade R1 Rock Buggy Portal Axle (GM51100)
Adjustable Upper Link Mount for R1 Axle(GM51123S)
Adjustable Aluminum Link Mount for R1 Axle (GM51102S)
Aluminum Straight axle adapter for R1 (GM51104S)
6 ea. 5x11x4 Rubber Sealed bearing Fasteddybearings.com (MR115-2RS)
8 ea. 5x8x2.5 5x8x2.5 Rubber Sealed Bearing Fasteddybearings.com (MR85-2RS)

Rolling Stock
1.9 Limited Edition 10 Hole, Black on Black » 1.9 Limited Edition 10 Hole, Black on Black !SET OF FOUR! - Motoworx Racing
Axial 1.9 Maxxis Trepador Tires - R35 Compound
Axial Narrow Hexes

Transmission
Vanquish Products Aluminum Transmission Case (VPS01185)
SuperShafty WRAITH & AX-10 BEEFY Top Shaft WRAITH & AX-10 BEEFY Top Shaft - Super Shafty
SuperShafty AX10 "ULTIMATE" Motor Plate AX10 "ULTIMATE" Motor Plate - Super Shafty
Robinson Racing 32P Slipper Kit Steel Slipper 56T (RRP7856)
Robinson Racing Steel Idler Gear(1541)
Robinson Racing Hardened Aluminum Machined Locker Diff. Gear(1540)
5mm - Lightened Axial Trans Output Pair in 4340 Steel Foams
Robison Robinson Racing 32p 9T pinion. Note: Due to the gear ration differance of the R1 axles, the 56/9 ratio is equivalent to 56/12 using SCX10 Axles.

Driveshafts
Front -- MIP CVD MIP C-Drive Spline CVD™ Kit, Axial AX10 (#08103)
Rear -- MIP Spline CVD™ DIG Kit, Axial AX10 (#09136)
Traxxas Screw pin 4x15mm (5145)

Suspension
Front Lower Links -- 2 ea. Vanquish Products 3/16" Titanium Link Shaft 85mm (VPS03926) 100mm eye to eye
Front Upper Link -- 1 ea. Vanquish Products 3/16" Titanium Link Shaft 90mm (VPS03927) 105mm eye to eye
Rear Lower Links -- 2 ea. Vanquish Products 3/16" Titanium Link Shaft 95mm (VPS03928 ) 110mm eye to eye
Rear Upper Links -- 2 ea. Vanquish Products 3/16" Titanium Link Shaft 100mm (VPS03929) 115mm eye to eye
Traxxas Rod Ends (TRA5347)
Pro-Line Racing 6060-00 Power Stroke Scaler Shocks

Steering
Rc4wd CMS Kit Chassis Mounted Steering Servo Kit with Panhard Bar for Axial SCX10
Pan hard rod custom made from 8-32 all thread and 1/4 steelbrakeline.
Drag link -- 1 ea. Vanquish Products 3/16" Titanium Link Shaft 95mm (VPS03928 )

Power and Control
ESC -- Castle Mamba Max Pro
Motor -- Tekin ROC 412 2300KV
Servo -- Hitec HS-7954SH
BEC -- Castle CCBEC 10A
Reciver --Futaba R204GF-E 4-Channel 2.4GHz S-FHSS Micro Receiver
Transmitter Futaba 4PL

 

[eric113]

Looks good with R1's. Wondering how the axles will hold up to roc motor over time.

For the raised axle center line, either make or buy taller shock towers.

Can you get better pics of the panhard link problem ?

 

[Jus]

Awesome. "thumbsup" I like to see different axles under the scx. I've spend a good many hours staring at some of the rc4wd axles but haven't been able to talk myself into anything yet.

 

[k7zpj]

Looks good with R1's. Wondering how the axles will hold up to roc motor over time.

For the raised axle center line, either make or buy taller shock towers.

Can you get better pics of the panhard link problem ?

The small bearings in the R1 axle probably won't like all of the power so I will probably so a motor swap with my Wraith and put the 35T in the SCX10.


This is with the axle level so that you can see the setup.





This is with the left side of the Axle raised. The top of the pumpkin hits the pan hard. This is why I went with a curved pan hard.





This is with the right side of the axle raised. The pan hard is hitting the servo case and the mount.




Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[k7zpj]

Awesome. "thumbsup" I like to see different axles under the scx. I've spend a good many hours staring at some of the rc4wd axles but haven't been able to talk myself into anything yet.

Thank you, this has been a fun project.

The secret to starting something like this is to buy the axles really fast before logic kicks and you talk yourself out doing it. :roll:

 

[pickled]

Do you really need a panhard with 4 links?

 

[k7zpj]

Do you really need a panhard with 4 links?

When I was doing the first mockup of the links I tried using a 4-link setup with no pan hard rod. The bump steer was really bad.

Here is video I shot of the bump steer.
<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/CPLZY6gdBzs" allowfullscreen="" width="560" frameborder="0" height="315"></iframe>

I decided to use a 3-link setup with a panhard. The top link is a single link on the left side.

 

[eric113]

The small bearings in the R1 axle probably won't like all of the power so I will probably so a motor swap with my Wraith and put the 35T in the SCX10.


This is with the axle level so that you can see the setup.





This is with the left side of the Axle raised. The top of the pumpkin hits the pan hard. This is why I went with a curved pan hard.





This is with the right side of the axle raised. The pan hard is hitting the servo case and the mount.




Any ideas would be appreciated.

Sorry for the late reply.

I tried the blue monkey cms. I didn't like it.

Are the tie rod and panhard links the length the same ?

Have you tired using a spacer at the axle end of the panhand link ?

 

[k7zpj]

Sorry for the late reply.
I tried the blue monkey cms. I didn't like it.

Not a problem. Fast replies not really expected for a hobby forum.

I am not overly impressed with BM CMS either. I rushed out and bought one before the comments about it hit the forum. Should have waited a couple of weeks more before buying it. It will probably make a trip to the classified section.

Are the tie rod and panhard links the length the same ?

Yes they are.

Have you tired using a spacer at the axle end of the panhand link ?

No I haven't. I think that will be my first change. I have to go pickup some longer screws to be able to try it out.

Thank you for replying, i will post results as I make the changes.

 

[spookyseven]

Can you move your panhard bar back, basically right in front of your shocks and over your pinion bearing. You would have to make new mounts but you wouldn't have to bend it to go over your pumkin. It should allow for enough compression to get the pumpkin against the frame.

The other option is to mount the servo sideways in the frame and cut a small notch in the frame to allow the panhard to come up farther. This is a common problem with panhard because the pumpkins are so big.

 

[k7zpj]

Can you move your panhard bar back, basically right in front of your shocks and over your pinion bearing. You would have to make new mounts but you wouldn't have to bend it to go over your pumkin. It should allow for enough compression to get the pumpkin against the frame.

The other option is to mount the servo sideways in the frame and cut a small notch in the frame to allow the panhard to come up farther. This is a common problem with panhard because the pumpkins are so big.

The upper link mount extends a long ways above the pumpkin at the pinion bearing. To be able to move the panhard back towards the pinion, I would have to remove the mount and mount the top link directly to the axle.



I think I am going to remove the BM CMS mount and get the servo mounted sideways in the frame with the stock cross members and then see what things look like.

Thanks for the ideas. I will post pictures once I make the changes.

 

[eric113]

The upper link mount extends a long ways above the pumpkin at the pinion bearing. To be able to move the panhard back towards the pinion, I would have to remove the mount and mount the top link directly to the axle.



I think I am going to remove the BM CMS mount and get the servo mounted sideways in the frame with the stock cross members and then see what things look like.

Thanks for the ideas. I will post pictures once I make the changes.

I would keep the panhard link the same length. Shortening it would cause problems.

I look to try get handbro's servo mount. Or just making your servo mount, panhard mount. If don't feel comfortable doing the work.. look into chassis builder vendors.

 

[k7zpj]

I would keep the panhard link the same length. Shortening it would cause problems.

I look to try get handbro's servo mount. Or just making your servo mount, panhard mount. If don't feel comfortable doing the work.. look into chassis builder vendors.

Any suggestions where to buy/get the hand brother's CMS?

 

[Natedog]

Any suggestions where to buy/get the hand brother's CMS?

I havent seen it in stock anywhere for months, but they claim they are going to produce it again. Here's rc4wd's version which looks good (almost the same) to me: Chassis Mounted Steering Servo Kit with Panhard Bar for Axial SCX10

Note: I have not tried this kit.

K7ZPj, truck is looking nice!

 

[k7zpj]

I havent seen it in stock anywhere for months, but they claim they are going to produce it again. Here's rc4wd's version which looks good (almost the same) to me: Chassis Mounted Steering Servo Kit with Panhard Bar for Axial SCX10

Note: I have not tried this kit.

K7ZPj, truck is looking nice!

Natedog, thanks for letting me know about the rc4wd cms kit. I put in an order with RRP Hobby for one. I will have to figure out the axle mount for the panhard. I will post pictures once I get it installed.

Thanks again for the compliment on my rig.

 

[eric113]

Does the panhard link hit the upper link mount on the axle ? You can try taking it off axle mount and mounting the upper 3rd link on the axle using that bolt near it.

 

[ski29mike]

Great Build.

 

[k7zpj]

Great Build.

Thank you.

Now I need to find the time to install the rc4wd CMS kit that came in the mail last week.

 

[blumaro]

The rc4wd kit works good almost identical to the hand bros

 

[JesterSpec]

Try to get your tie-rod and drag link as parallel to each other as possible looking down from the top of your rig.

To do this, it looks like you need to just swap around the horn. This will help a lot with bump steer when on 4 link if you wanted to try to go back.