• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Just joined the Ascender family!

Yep, found panacea today...3s and 15pinion on the RTR and 16pinion on the new build - both crawl beautifully and have all the speed I could want with 35T motors. Happy camper here.

Now I see where the esc programming comes into play - the adjustable start up and drag brake on the HW1080 makes a HUGE difference on how smooth it starts and stops - so much so that now I have to get another one. :flipoff:
 
Browneye said:
I'll have to try 3 s on the RTR then - I figured it was rated for 7.4V and would fry it on 12v. I see the built in bec is just 5V - wow!

Those 3800mah 3s LIHV shorties aren't cheap.
Click to expand...

But worth the price, replaced all my 2S and get more runtime out of less packs, less stuff to carry on the trail with me. "thumbsup"

Browneye said:
...Now I see where the esc programming comes into play - the adjustable start up and drag brake on the HW1080 makes a HUGE difference on how smooth it starts and stops - so much so that now I have to get another one. :flipoff:
Click to expand...

"thumbsup"
 
Does the built in BEC on the 1080 do the job with a Savox 0231, or should I opt for the Castle BEC just in case?
 
skinnyj said:
Does the built in BEC on the 1080 do the job with a Savox 0231, or should I opt for the Castle BEC just in case?
Click to expand...

I'm running 0231's in 2 of my rigs. One with the hobbywing 1080 and another on an AE5 ESC. Not using a BEC on either rig at the moment. No issues.
 
Same - Savox 0231 on HW1080 BEC - 2S and 3S - no issues.

From what has been reported, past about 300-400oz/inches is where you'll likely see a brown out. If it gets stuck or something it could draw a lot of amps and create havoc with everything else.

I'd be willing to try a HH servo with it - seems to me someone was running one with a 1080 with no issues - and they're about 400oz.

So far I'm really happy with the 231 servo too - running it on the 6v bec setting on the 1080.
 
No 2 Ascender has a PowerHD LW20 MG. 20KG or 277 oz at 6V, but I am running off a castle BEC at 8v. Haven't found anything to stop it steering yet. The Spektrum Rx's will take up tp 8.9 volts.

No1 Ascender has a Savox 0231 good servo but no BEC at the moment as the Turnigy one i had burnt out.. I will install a new one sometime soon.
 
Digging in...

Trans and front axle:

cIarbhs.jpg
 
Okay... I have it to "roller" status. I just installed the steering servo and motor and came away with a couple of questions...

1) Does a closed endbell motor always fit so tight? I had to partially disassemble the battery tray so I could get one of the motor lugs underneath it. Even then the lug sits right against the tray, which concerns me a bit...

2) The right front shock seems to compress slightly harder than the left shock. The left side compresses with no effort, while the right side seems to tighten up when I get 1/4" to full compression.
 
Motor: normal. Just make sure there's enough room for the tray to go up and down where it meets the lead tang. Otherwise you might have to bend it or re-solder the lead. Yes, it's tight.

Shock: Sounds like too much oil. Consider removal, open it and check the fluid level. Make sure you get all the bubbles out from under the piston. Did you drill out your pistons? A #55 bit is common but since I don't have one of those I just drill one of the two holes with a 1/16th bit. Looks like they come with 25wt oil now - that's what I put in mine and love the way they work.
Also, the collar that separates the two springs tends to have a mold casting ring on the inside - I always shave those off with an exacto so they run smooth up and down the threaded body.
 
Last edited:
Browneye said:
Motor: normal. Just make sure there's enough room for the tray to go up and down where it meets the lead tang. Otherwise you might have to bend it or re-solder the lead. Yes, it's tight.

Shock: Sounds like too much oil. Consider removal, open it and check the fluid level. Make sure you get all the bubbles out from under the piston. Did you drill out your pistons? A #55 bit is common but since I don't have one of those I just drill one of the two holes with a 1/16th bit. Looks like they come with 25wt oil now - that's what I put in mine and love the way they work.
Also, the collar that separates the two springs tends to have a mold casting ring on the inside - I always shave those off with an exacto so they run smooth up and down the threaded body.
Click to expand...

I figured it might be an oil issue. I recall having one shock that didn't seem to want to bleed right and I think I finally said "screw it". I'll bet that was the one...
 
Upon further inspection... It looks like travel on the right side is slightly limited by the panhard bar. I believe it is clearing the servo and horn (barely), but it is trying to pull the axle to the right in the last 1/4" of shock travel, causing a bind.
 
Common issue... I've got a K10, and my servo is mounted transversely, but I've tried rotating it 90deg for shits and giggles, same issue occurred. Some run the servo loaded from the top rather than the bottom, but I found that at least on my truck it induced bump-steer to the point to where I returned it to normal. Not much travel is lost...
 
Thanks, Natedog! That is Tamiya PS-54 Cobalt Green. It reminded me of the color of my wife's car when we started dating in the 90s. I just wish it was metallic, then it would have been a perfect match.

The cap is PS-23 Gunmetal and the window trim is PS-41 Bright Silver. The window trim needs some cleanup, as I had a little bit of bleed.

Overall, I am happy with it. Especially since the last time I painted a lexan body was 1993. :lmao:
 
Finally done!

All electrics are installed and the ESC is set up. The instructions for the 1080 programming card leave a ton to be desired. Both the instructions and the supplement sheet were wrong. I had to go to YouTube to get the correct instructions. I had no reverse, but that is because it was set to "race mode", oddly. And, as per my luck, both channels were backwards and had to be reversed. Now it is all square but I won't get any meaningful time with it until Saturday.





 
I got to bash around in my yard for a bit Saturday and Sunday (while training my dog not to bark at it). I can see the appeal of this sort of vehicle if you don't have the space for a "go fast" RC. I have a pile of old brick and granite cobble stones off to the side of my yard that I have been digging up while doing yard work (future course material :mrgreen:). The Ascender seemed to have no issues climbing over them in stock form. I did get some "see-sawing" due to the long wheelbase and I see what people mean about the departure angle with the rear bumper. It did hang a few times. Also, when hammering the throttle on flat ground I got to see the torque twist in action. The twist didn't seem to be bothersome, but I could be too much of a noob to notice if it is detrimental to performance.

The biggest problem I am having is keeping the tires on the stock rims. I'm going to try hitting the beads with Simple Green or Electrical Contact Cleaner and re-gluing. Is this CA okay for the job: Non-Toxic Cement w/Applicator, 1oz (TES3527C)? It is a nice thin cement that will get into the bead, but is it strong enough?
 
skinnyj said:
The biggest problem I am having is keeping the tires on the stock rims. I'm going to try hitting the beads with Simple Green or Electrical Contact Cleaner and re-gluing. Is this CA okay for the job: Non-Toxic Cement w/Applicator, 1oz (TES3527C)? It is a nice thin cement that will get into the bead, but is it strong enough?
Click to expand...

Not sure if that Testors stuff is CA or a solvent styrene bonder, either way lots of tested tire glues on the market (Proline, AKA, Jconcepts, Muchmore, Losi, Bob Smith, etc). Ultra thin CA is both a blessing and a curse. It can get you a really solid glue job or a complete disaster really quickly because it dries almost instantly. If you are not great at mounting tires or are just out of practice, stick with medium CA to give yourself an opportunity to adjust the tire bead or wipe off any excess glue runs if needed.

The key to gluing any tire is preparation. Wipe the beads of the tires down with denatured alcohol or acetone and watch how much brown gunk comes off. Scuff up the beads on the wheels for a better glue bond too. If the plastic is shiny, glue isn't going to stick too well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
What are your thoughts - Father/Son Build
Replies
11
Views
1K
splyn
S
C
Colorblind’s Axial Capra Thread
2
Replies
32
Views
5K
Lashlee
L
B
Can someone explain the runtime disparity between these two rigs?
2
Replies
28
Views
4K
BashNSlash
B
soze
Soze's UMG10 - 80's toy/cartoon theme build
2 3
Replies
59
Views
11K
soze
soze
soze
Soze rejoices the Traxxas TRX4 Sport Kit
2 3 4
Replies
76
Views
17K
Benp
B
Back
Top