JimInMiami
Quarry Creeper
There's quite few Bom builds out there already, so I figure I'd post a “reverse” build, seeing as the rig's already been test run and share some observations that might be useful to those considering a Bom.
The glamour shot: I liked the box top art so kept pretty close to it. This thing REALLY looks like a late 80's Ranger dunnit?
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKRZc4Jgl74
The chrome bits, rearviews, door handles were painted matt black as were the grill inlets.
I thought the cage design was cool.
My SSD steel wheels and after-market tires hadn't arrived, so ran the stock ones mounted on plastic beadlocks from my Capra build. G-Made's wheels require the tires to be glued on... and that just doesn't happen in Jim's garage :!:
Test drive was at Markham Park's crawler course. https://markhampark.com/rc-truck-and-crawler-course/
If you're ever in the area it's definitely work a trip.
We had the wife's TRX4 Sport out too. Bom's driver's side rear view lasted about 15 mins and the passenger side maybe another 10....
Not to worry though, I used double sided tape, so they're still intact, just the tape gave way. BTW the manual has you screwing the mirrors on which probably ain't a good idea.
One of the tings that attracted me to the BOM was the rear suspension setup. Yeah, I know it doesn't perform any better (maybe worse?) than a conventional one, but it's soooo cool (well, at least I think so 8)). I went with the upgraded metal bellcranks and also installed the optional anti-sway bar (used the medium one initially). I noticed the torquing effect at a few points, so for the next outing have increased the rear shocks' spring load considerably and installed the thickest of the 3 sway bars in the upgrade kit.
The kit went together well with one exception (more on that below) and I do enjoy painting and detailing the body, but why-o-why can't they send it PRE-CUT??? If you're listening G-Made, I would gladly pay a little extra for bodies that don't require trimming.
So here's my only real gripe with the kit: The pre-drilled hole in the support for the motor (part GM60074), a pretty important piece, you'll agree, was over size and didn't allow the 3mm screw to bite. The solution was to drill the frame rail out and install a 3.5mm self tapper I had laying around.
I kind'a thought the front shock towers were too flexy, so cobbled-up this brace from some 3mm all-thread and cap nuts. Really firmed things up.
A word of encouragement for those poor apartment dwelling souls like me that aren't allowed to spray paint. Regular old latex house paint works pretty well, it just takes 4 - 5 coats to get good coverage. Pro-tip: when you clean the inside of the body, use the rough side of your kitchen sponge to LIGHTLY roughen the surface. The scruffing doesn't show on the outside and the paint adheres better. And don't tell your wife, of course :mrgreen:
Oh, and a last suggestion for those as dyslexic as me, I found labelling the suspension rods avoids major grief later when you go to instal them.
The glamour shot: I liked the box top art so kept pretty close to it. This thing REALLY looks like a late 80's Ranger dunnit?
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKRZc4Jgl74
The chrome bits, rearviews, door handles were painted matt black as were the grill inlets.
I thought the cage design was cool.
My SSD steel wheels and after-market tires hadn't arrived, so ran the stock ones mounted on plastic beadlocks from my Capra build. G-Made's wheels require the tires to be glued on... and that just doesn't happen in Jim's garage :!:
Test drive was at Markham Park's crawler course. https://markhampark.com/rc-truck-and-crawler-course/
If you're ever in the area it's definitely work a trip.
We had the wife's TRX4 Sport out too. Bom's driver's side rear view lasted about 15 mins and the passenger side maybe another 10....
Not to worry though, I used double sided tape, so they're still intact, just the tape gave way. BTW the manual has you screwing the mirrors on which probably ain't a good idea.
One of the tings that attracted me to the BOM was the rear suspension setup. Yeah, I know it doesn't perform any better (maybe worse?) than a conventional one, but it's soooo cool (well, at least I think so 8)). I went with the upgraded metal bellcranks and also installed the optional anti-sway bar (used the medium one initially). I noticed the torquing effect at a few points, so for the next outing have increased the rear shocks' spring load considerably and installed the thickest of the 3 sway bars in the upgrade kit.
The kit went together well with one exception (more on that below) and I do enjoy painting and detailing the body, but why-o-why can't they send it PRE-CUT??? If you're listening G-Made, I would gladly pay a little extra for bodies that don't require trimming.
So here's my only real gripe with the kit: The pre-drilled hole in the support for the motor (part GM60074), a pretty important piece, you'll agree, was over size and didn't allow the 3mm screw to bite. The solution was to drill the frame rail out and install a 3.5mm self tapper I had laying around.
I kind'a thought the front shock towers were too flexy, so cobbled-up this brace from some 3mm all-thread and cap nuts. Really firmed things up.
A word of encouragement for those poor apartment dwelling souls like me that aren't allowed to spray paint. Regular old latex house paint works pretty well, it just takes 4 - 5 coats to get good coverage. Pro-tip: when you clean the inside of the body, use the rough side of your kitchen sponge to LIGHTLY roughen the surface. The scruffing doesn't show on the outside and the paint adheres better. And don't tell your wife, of course :mrgreen:
Oh, and a last suggestion for those as dyslexic as me, I found labelling the suspension rods avoids major grief later when you go to instal them.
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