memphis_m3z
Rock Stacker
Will these fit a wraith because they are far cheaper than the wraith set they are selling
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How to crawl tutorial available?
Will these fit a wraith because they are far cheaper than the wraith set they are selling
Calderwood
I wanna be Dave
Yes they fit the wraith too. You should replace the set screws with Traxxas #5189 though since the wraith has through drilled pinion shafts.
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SwampDawg
RCC Addict
nice to see a price hike of a good 40.00 on MIPs....jeezus! lol
C*H*U*D
No idea what I'm doing
Check out the Losi section...those guys have no idea what an ESC with a drag brake is.
Use your real estate and learn to wiggle. A speedy servo is just as important as a strong one.
gmorg
Pebble Pounder
My post was ment to be a little joke.Everyones idea of crawlin is different. I just posted what I did because alot of newbs ask whats the best comp stuff on a limited budget.
heartless
Quarry Creeper
Same here - my 1st gen RS10 was given to me (the other half bought the newer version, also used) - only things I upgraded on mine are the servos, tires, and the front linkage.
Servos are Savox MG0251s (cost was around $40 each, 200 something in-oz). I see no real reason for "needing" 400+ in-oz of torque in a servo. Lower torque means you need to learn to drive within the limits of the equipment, which ultimately means you will become a better driver - just my humble opinion tho...
HB sedona white dot tires (on sale - less than $50 for the set of 4) with just a little bit of weight in the front (about 1 oz in each front tire)
got rid of the "wing" on the front axle links by getting the parts kit (about $3) for the newer version
Total spent = under $150
Crawls on the rocks just fine for my purposes, which is having fun! I can out drive the other half with no problems and he has spent much more on his than I have!
and yes, I have stuffed a tire in a hole between rocks many times and never broken anything! What I have done is learned to drive better, pick my lines more carefully, and pay attention to what is happening and why.
So yes, it CAN be done on a "limited" budget.
This whole concept of needing to spend gobs of money on a crawler - regardless of whether you compete or not - is just plain ridiculous to me.
it shouldnt be about "money spent" - it should be about the skill of the driver.
I want to see competitions where everyone has to use the exact same crawler - one RC, many drivers - it then boils down to who drives the best - not who spent the most money. That, to me, would be a true competition!
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I think this thread has gone off topic. It seems you all write about the hardware, while the driving should be in focus...
I was on my first competition (which was also my first meet with other "real" crawlers) a few weeks ago, and I learned heaps about spotting lines and thinking outside the box to find the best approach to a gate.
Quite often a direct approach isn't the best one...
I also learned that going fast between obvious obstacles can often lead to the truck rolling over on some smaller bump.
I was on my first competition (which was also my first meet with other "real" crawlers) a few weeks ago, and I learned heaps about spotting lines and thinking outside the box to find the best approach to a gate.
Quite often a direct approach isn't the best one...
I also learned that going fast between obvious obstacles can often lead to the truck rolling over on some smaller bump.
memphis_m3z
Rock Stacker
I know there are a ton of crawler videos out there but I haven't found any ones explaining what a good line looks like or how to asses a good line for new to crawling guys like me that would be a good help in identifying good and bad ways to take up or across a crawler course
Calderwood
I wanna be Dave
A couple of things that newbs seem to have a hard time grasping:
A reverse is way better than hitting a gate ie: don't be afraid to back up and pick a better line.
On courses that are hard to get through in time, don't waste time struggling to clear that extra hard gate. Just staddle it and focus on getting a good line going for the next gate.
Reverses aren't the only way to back up ie: don't be afraid to leave the obvious line. Sometimes you can just loop around to get back to a better line.
Practice where the comps are held. The back yard rock pile is great practice but noting compares to practicing on the natural rock formations that most comps are held on.
memphis_m3z
Rock Stacker
See this is helpful advice and good to know info like that is what should be in this thread thanks Nigels_world
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
A good line will simply be that...
which your tires maintain surface contact (high points)
and the axles center chunk/undercarriage will clear surface irregularities.
And with consideration of keeping the body/chassis as level L-R a possible.
Meaning: pay attention to the center line of the undercarriage
and suspension components.
Getting hung up on things ruins your line.
Another thing...
In my 1:1 experience...
Many folk just steer and drive forward.
Not taking into account what the arse of the donkey is doing.
That's gonna be a fail in my book every time.
IMO... one must know their vehicle well...
realize it's turning radius and traction capabilities...
but even more importantly...
Understand that the rear tire tracking is something requiring attention.
Meaning: the rear tires do not always follow the tracking of the front tires.
( ^ the exception is when driving in a straight line )
So... not only will you be steering the front tires...
but one will need to surmise where the rear tires will follow
as they track around a turn.
When turning a tight radius...
the rear will turn a smaller radius then at the front.
So the rear tires do not follow the same line as the front.
And instead will turn into that radius before the entry point
of the front tires.
Often the front tires will require that they be driven deeper (father forward) before starting a turn...
so that the rear tires will stay on track and inside the obstacle or on the trail.
Even without 4 wheel steering... understanding your rig
and how the rear wheels will track is something to be learned.
* A good line is something you can visualize completing, before the attempt is even started.
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heartless
Quarry Creeper
Excellent information, Taco!
I can "visualize" how to pick a line, but couldnt quite figure out how to put it into words! LOL You have done that! Bravo!
one thing I would like to add is that every rig is going to handle differently - you need to learn the rig, how it handles, what the turning radius is, where COG (center of gravity) is, weight distribution (nose heavy? tail heavy?), etc - the only way to do that is to actually go out & drive it - play around with it, see what it will and wont do - and WHY it will/wont do something. The "why" is just as important (if not more so) as the "how".
Pay attention to the terrain - are there holes that a tire could get stuck in? if yes, figure out how to avoid them - straddle? go around? etc... is there a sharp, sudden change in angle or altitude levels? how do you cope with that? the rig's COG will have a lot to do with how well it handles steep inclines and/or altitude changes. If COG is too high, it could potentially roll over if the angle is too much. Again, every rig is going to be different.
These are all things that are learned by practice, practice, practice!
You can gather all the tips/tricks/advice in the world, but none of it will make you a better driver without practice - actually going out and driving. Visualization is a big part of successful crawling. You need to be able to visualize what could potentially happen for a chosen line...
I can "visualize" how to pick a line, but couldnt quite figure out how to put it into words! LOL You have done that! Bravo!
one thing I would like to add is that every rig is going to handle differently - you need to learn the rig, how it handles, what the turning radius is, where COG (center of gravity) is, weight distribution (nose heavy? tail heavy?), etc - the only way to do that is to actually go out & drive it - play around with it, see what it will and wont do - and WHY it will/wont do something. The "why" is just as important (if not more so) as the "how".
Pay attention to the terrain - are there holes that a tire could get stuck in? if yes, figure out how to avoid them - straddle? go around? etc... is there a sharp, sudden change in angle or altitude levels? how do you cope with that? the rig's COG will have a lot to do with how well it handles steep inclines and/or altitude changes. If COG is too high, it could potentially roll over if the angle is too much. Again, every rig is going to be different.
These are all things that are learned by practice, practice, practice!
You can gather all the tips/tricks/advice in the world, but none of it will make you a better driver without practice - actually going out and driving. Visualization is a big part of successful crawling. You need to be able to visualize what could potentially happen for a chosen line...
JeremyH
I wanna be Dave
Don't discount the time a driver spends tuning his rig and practicing that specific setup.
BTW, there was a comp a while back where the entry fee of the driver included the purchase of a kit. You showed up, added your electronics and drove the courses...
Calderwood
I wanna be Dave
Maybe we need a spec class chassis like the 1:1 formula toy. Let people tune them (which is half the battle anyway) how they like but every one has to start from the same chassis. I used to race spec cars on carpet and it was a lot of fun. It really made you bring your driving game.
JeremyH
I wanna be Dave
Sounds like fun!"thumbsup"
StomperCrawler
RCC Addict
One thing I tried for the first time this weekend was to use gates during a practice run at my usual spot.
What a difference!
It really forces you to plan ahead and find the lines that let you clear a gate AND get you going for the next one.
It will also show you what your rig can and can't do.
What a difference!
It really forces you to plan ahead and find the lines that let you clear a gate AND get you going for the next one.
It will also show you what your rig can and can't do.
