Hobbywing Quicrun Waterproof 1080 Brushed Crawling ESC

[Drm31078]

All right all right. I bought one.

 

[NOFX]

all right all right. I bought one.

lol

 

[NOFX]

After reading this thread, i was convinced also.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I have two WP 80s and they are FANTASTIC ESCs. They just work, are water friendly, stay cool on 3S, are really cheap (not just affordable), small and programmable. They also have great low speed resolution, are really responsive and have instant reverse.

All HW have to do is offer a switchable AUX for say drag brake like Castle has done and this will be the defacto brushed ESC for 1/10 brushed setups...that if it's not already. I guess the question is 'why would you buy another brushed ESC with this now available'?

The AUX wire isn't needed in most instances and especially not a slow, brushed crawler IMO. It's an awesome feature, but not a must have on a slow, dedicated crawler/scaler.

 

[CODYBOY]

Hey guys, finally bought one of the 1080s, was wondering if some of you would share how you have it programed for a scaler? For things like drag brake, start up, and mid range performance. What is working, what isn't working? The info would help a bunch of us. thanks
Ernie

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Hey guys, finally bought one of the 1080s, was wondering if some of you would share how you have it programed for a scaler? For things like drag brake, start up, and mid range performance. What is working, what isn't working? The info would help a bunch of us. thanks
Ernie

Somebody posted their settings somewhere on this thread. I don't remember mine offhand, but I can share when I get home if I remember to do so.

 

[redemon]

Most of the settings are already setup for a crawler.
I only changed maybe two of the settings when I set mine up the other day.
One was the Bec and the other I cant remember. Lol

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Most of the settings are already setup for a crawler.
I only changed maybe two of the settings when I set mine up the other day.
One was the Bec and the other I cant remember. Lol

A lot of it is personal preference as well.

 

[Sneetches]

I think the things worth checking out are the specific options to this ESC, which I haven't tested yet myself, like these options:

How much difference between the "initial start force" settings can be felt? (Option 4)
How much difference between drag brake rate can be felt? (Option 10)
How much difference between start mode/punch settings can be felt? (Option 12)

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I think the things worth checking out are the specific options to this ESC, which I haven't tested yet myself, like these options:

How much difference between the "initial start force" settings can be felt? (Option 4)
How much difference between drag brake rate can be felt? (Option 10)
How much difference between start mode/punch settings can be felt? (Option 12)

Agreed and I'd add experimenting with the frequency and freewheeling settings. They recommend freewheeling in a certain position for crawling in the manual. I honestly have no understanding of what this freewheeling feature does.

 

[redemon]

Agreed and I'd add experimenting with the frequency and freewheeling settings. They recommend freewheeling in a certain position for crawling in the manual. I honestly have no understanding of what this freewheeling feature does.

Me either and the way they talk about it in the manual makes no sense either.
I just left it like it is.

 

[Sneetches]

Well luckily there is some documentation on the term freewheeling. As to why you can apparently turn it on or off on this ESC, I don't know, but the Helicopter people have an explanation. Prepare to have your brain hurt if electronic babble isn't quite your thing:

Inside your ESC, there are a set of switches call field-effect transistors or FET’s that turn on and turn off to allow current to flow through each of the three phases of your motor. These FET’s stay on when you’re at 100% throttle, but when you set your throttle percentage to something less than 100%, they have to switch on and off many times per second to “chop up” the current into tiny chunks that can be added together to give you the lower throttle output that your transmitter is asking for…

In normal operation, when a pair of FET’s (called a bridge – there are three bridges with two switches per bridge) switch off to stop driving a phase of your motor, there is a “freewheeling” current that continues to circulate in that phase for small amount of time. This current is forced to flow through a diode that sits in parallel with the lower FET in that bridge. Since the diode has a voltage drop across it, heat is dissipated and it warms up. For example, if we’re pushing 60A at 50% throttle across a FET body diode whose forward voltage drop is 0.5V, then 15W is being dissipated in that tiny FET! Ouch…hot!

Now then, active freewheeling comes in when, instead of running at partial throttle through the FET body diodes, as one FET switches off, the “freewheeling” diode switches on to allow the “freewheeling” current to flow through it instead of it’s body diode. Since the resistance of the FET is much much lower than its body diode (usually around 5 milliohms), much less heat is dissipated. For comparison, if we take the same situation as above, but this time flow our 60A through the “freewheeling” FET, we get a total power dissipate of 4.5W! More than three times less than the non-active freewheeling ESC…

Ok, so if by this point, you’re lost, I’ll just feed you the punch line…ESC’s that are equipped with active freewheeling are able to operate over a wider range of throttle percentages due to the more efficient switching methodology that is used. This means that you can run lower head speeds without having to re-gear or worry about your ESC blowing up! Because the ICE2 doesn’t have active freewheeling, it can only run safely above the 55-65% throttle level, whereas the others can go as low as 30%.

 

[CoolRunning]

I think I left most things stock but turned on active freewheeling, maxed out the punch, increased reverse 25% and upped the start up force a tad. They worked perfectly out of the box though the two trucks are both running cool and very happy with quite high gearing (12/64 RR10 and 26/80 SCX10 trail gearing) with these settings.

 

[NOFX]

I think the things worth checking out are the specific options to this ESC, which I haven't tested yet myself, like these options:

How much difference between the "initial start force" settings can be felt? (Option 4)
How much difference between drag brake rate can be felt? (Option 10)
How much difference between start mode/punch settings can be felt? (Option 12)

these are all excellent questions

i havent read much in here about the initial start force, though i figure for a crawler, you want very finite throttle control at low percentages so to have a higher initial start force seems opposite to that. for my racing where i'd seldom be between 0%-16% throttle it make sense to run initial start force at 16%. how big the impact would be would be mainly be determined by how much power your motor puts out, some motors wont make a car/crawler move at 16% throttle so you might aswell run the higher percentage

everything i've read in here says that the drag brake rate does have a big effect and its a bit like abs, so you dont go to full instant brake, the esc eases the brake on

the start mode is a current limiter, your motor draws the most current when moving from 0 rpm and that amperage reduces as rpm increases, the start mode reduces the available current to the motor therefore slowing the acceleration rate, i've seen these types of escs on setting 1 and the take off is very slow. i havent been able to find out if the current limiting stops after a period of full throttle application, but if it the limiting is static, then its likely that at low settings the car won't reach top speed

 

[NOFX]

I think the things worth checking out are the specific options to this ESC, which I haven't tested yet myself, like these options:

How much difference between the "initial start force" settings can be felt? (Option 4)
How much difference between drag brake rate can be felt? (Option 10)
How much difference between start mode/punch settings can be felt? (Option 12)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OBSpf3vVtQ

that vid should show you what you need to know about drag brake rate

cheers

 

[mhowzit]

I've been beating my wing(1080) for 4 months now. The thing is a beast. I've since converted all my rigs and even a few touring cars over to the 1080. Just ordered the MST CFX kit and a 1080 will be going into that, as well. Yeah, I love this thing!

 

[NOFX]

I've been beating my wing(1080) for 4 months now. The thing is a beast. I've since converted all my rigs and even a few touring cars over to the 1080. Just ordered the MST CFX kit and a 1080 will be going into that, as well. Yeah, I love this thing!

Hey mate. I'd be keen to hear what settings you have run and what you found worked well in the touring car

Cheers

 

[akatz]

I think the things worth checking out are the specific options to this ESC, which I haven't tested yet myself, like these options:

How much difference between the "initial start force" settings can be felt? (Option 4)
How much difference between drag brake rate can be felt? (Option 10)
How much difference between start mode/punch settings can be felt? (Option 12)

The initial start force I couldn't tell a huge difference but when I took the punch setting up to 8 it was a pretty noticeable difference for sure.

 

[ElChupacabra]

Well, I de-cased one. It's a total pain in the ass. I'll post more pics and details later but here's the result. I was right, the entire inside is filed with conformal coating.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Well, I de-cased one. It's a total pain in the ass. I'll post more pics and details later but here's the result. I was right, the entire inside is filed with conformal coating.

Thank's for being the guinea pig! Are you doing that in attempts to save weight or size or just curiosity?