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High-ish speeds: brushed or brushless?

Watts is watts. The motor will suck up so many watts of energy so W=IV. Current must go up to make up for lower voltage.

I see no harm in going brushless without 3s packs. If you are not constantly under 100% load, WOT with the motor bogging you probably will never have an issue running 2s on a motor. I've only ever burned up a motor on 3s but that was a 70MPH brushless traxxas slash. Crawlers and trial trucks are geared so low it takes very little power to move them.

That said, I love the nuttyness of 4s in a crawler and run ESCs capable for 4s and 6s. The torque is nuts.

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Do you think running a 20C battery will hurt? My current 2S batteries are 20C and the ones I have in my cart are 20C.


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79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker
 
Do you think running a 20C battery will hurt? My current 2S batteries are 20C and the ones I have in my cart are 20C.


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79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker
As long as it'll keep up with the current demands of your motor it'll be fine.

20c tells me nothing without knowing the capacity of the pack. A 5000mah 20c ca supply 100a while a 2500mah 20c can supply 50a.

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I’m in the US, just in Hawaii so shipping for pretty much anything is high, especially HazMat. Thanks for that write up, I never knew running 2S could do that. RPP has 3S batteries for $20 a pop and shipping is only $15 for some reason. I’m getting brushless for speed, not torque. It’s going to be a trail truck/light crawler, so not looking for crazy low speed control.

The battery I’m looking at is a 3S 2200mah 20C battery, but on the Mamba X spec sheet, it says a 30C for a battery. Will it hurt if go under that? I would like to get 3-4 smaller 3S batteries rather than 1 bigger battery, I think? Lol, I’m no expert on what batteries would best suit me.

I think at this point, Im not going to go brushless until I have a few 3S batteries.


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79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker
i think we talked about this before rpp can ship cheap cauze they ship in volume and can nagotiate a cheaper shipping rate than most because of the sheer volume of packadges they ship

it pays to shop around for the best shipping prices


i have rigs that run 2s 3s and 4s up to 6s ive never burned up a motor from to low of voltage most electronics were made to be able to run nimh packs too just fine so a 2s wont undervolt most escs or motors a 550 12t crawlmaster runs just fine on 2s even on a 10lb truck being pushed by a hobbywing 1040 esc

tla 3800 kv motor is a short course truck motor and although fun at high speed will suck hard at crawling speeds even sensored it wont like it add a trailer and it will only get worse going 3s or 4s will.only make crawling worse on top of it

a 2200kv brushless will go over 60mph one of my buggies has a 3300 kv brushless motor and runs on 2s also it leaves the ground at about 45 mph and it will not crawl and i have about 4 years on that motor esc 2s setup with no issues it did explode a 2s 3300mah 25c battery though from drawing to many amps
a 3800 kv motor will put a hurt on the battery or battery connector so good batterys and conectors are a must with that kind of power

i like to keep my motors in the 1700kv-2700kv range 2700 on 3s is a bit of a handfull crawling one wrong blip and your truck is airborn lol 1700kv on 3s clawls nice but not track worthy wont catch big air still enuff to flip the truck in the turns though and theres always 4s if i want more
 
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In my Trx4 I started off with a HH Trailmaster 3300kv and mamba X.

No issues on 3s and great low speed control.

I swapped out for a PP 2700kv and again zero control issues.

I’m geared 9/45 and have the throttle curve set 70% input /30% power.

Of course if I smash the throttle things go haywire.
 
Just so you know, you probably dont want the field link you'll instead want the castle link. The field link can only adjust some settings where the castle link can do it all though it does require a Windows PC.

Actually, the Field Link can do everything the Link can do when plugged into a PC. There is no difference in their functionality while plugged into your systems USB port. The advantage of the Field Link is that you can still make a bunch (but not all) of adjustments in the field without being attached it a PC. For me, it was well worth the extra $10.

I wanted the brakes on my Capra to hold me in place, even on steep inclines. I also didn't like the way the sudden braking made my Capra nose dive and tumble head first when I released the throttle. The Field Link let me find the perfect brake settings without going back to my PC a hundred times.
 
In my Trx4 I started off with a HH Trailmaster 3300kv and mamba X.

No issues on 3s and great low speed control.

I swapped out for a PP 2700kv and again zero control issues.

I’m geared 9/45 and have the throttle curve set 70% input /30% power.

Of course if I smash the throttle things go haywire.
on a trx4 with the extra gear reduction of the portals and low range gearing i could see a 3300kv sensored system being ok but there must have been a reason to step down to a 2700kv
 
it seems the 3800kv still has plenty of low speed. It’s not a brushed motor, but it’s still crawling. Yes I’m aware the Gen 8 has portals which equal reduction. This is by no means going into a technical crawler, so low speed control is the least of my worries.

Can anyone either recommend a battery for the Mamba X or confirm the one I have linked will work?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=os9tpGdVqsI&t=205s

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xl3HaGzHi7c

Battery: https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VNR1577&CartID=1
_________________
https://www.instagram.com/island_crawlaz/

79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker
 
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Actually, the Field Link can do everything the Link can do when plugged into a PC. There is no difference in their functionality while plugged into your systems USB port. The advantage of the Field Link is that you can still make a bunch (but not all) of adjustments in the field without being attached it a PC. For me, it was well worth the extra $10.

I wanted the brakes on my Capra to hold me in place, even on steep inclines. I also didn't like the way the sudden braking made my Capra nose dive and tumble head first when I released the throttle. The Field Link let me find the perfect brake settings without going back to my PC a hundred times.

Thanks I didnt know that "thumbsup"
 
So the higher the C rating, the better? Sorry for all my noob questions, just want to make sure I’m getting the right thing.

Which battery would you get? I want to spend no more than $100 on batteries, but need more than just one. My thinking with the small 800mah is grab 5 or 6 with them being only $15 a piece. That gives me a total of 4,000-4,800mah and judging on how long my 7200mah 2S’s lasts, I think that’s enough.
78cb070355b06be020e6ca56ba92d9ce.jpg




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79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker
 
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on a trx4 with the extra gear reduction of the portals and low range gearing i could see a 3300kv sensored system being ok but there must have been a reason to step down to a 2700kv


Simple. Product availability.

I got into this hobby at a baaaaaaaaaad time. April of last year.

I originally wanted the PP 2700. Unobtabium at the time, along with the SHV500v3 and JConcepts Landmines.

But, the Trailmaster 3300, 3Bros G13 and PL Hyraxes were.

Gotta start somewhere.

it seems the 3800kv still has plenty of low speed. It’s not a brushed motor, but it’s still crawling. Yes I’m aware the Gen 8 has portals which equal reduction. This is by no means going into a technical crawler, so low speed control is the least of my worries.

Can anyone either recommend a battery for the Mamba X or confirm the one I have linked will work?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=os9tpGdVqsI&t=205s

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xl3HaGzHi7c

Battery: https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VNR1577&CartID=1
_________________
https://www.instagram.com/island_crawlaz/

79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker


The MambaX manual states minimum 25C for batteries.

I actually started off with that battery with the stock motor and esc. No issues. But I just crawl.

I switched to Gens Ace Adventureline Series when I upgraded to the Mamba.

With what you’re wanting to do with the setup, I’d maybe look into batteries with a higher discharge rating.

If I’m off on this , I’m sure someone will give the correct info.
 
I don't think I have chimed in here yet.

3s is definitely the way to go here. Especially if you are running brushed motors. A fun motor setup for our scale rigs is a 20t 550 can on 3s... (stock Scx10II gearing) The esc makes the difference in the low speed control and when running full throttle, The speed will throw some roost My trail King has this combo...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ynLbNHMbo60" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Now brushless...

A 3000kv motor on 3s will give you enough power to break stuff rather easily. With that power comes amp draw, and thus higher end batteries and esc's. A 3000kv 540 size 4 pole (what I have experience with) will draw over 80 amps when bound up. A brushed motor is in the 40 amp range depending on quality and windings/turns. Brushless motors are also much less sensitive to gearing, have way more power density and are more efficient. You get 2x the wheel speed for a similar run time. But they cost 4x as much. The motors will last almost indefinately as well(with proper maintenance) $250ish for a Mamba X and HH Puller Pro motor, vs $65ish for a Hobbywin 1080, and HH Trailmaster 550.

Batteries...

A 2200mah 3s 30c lipo (2200x30/1000=66amps) i my first choice for my crawlers. They are small weigh only 6 oz and have enough c rating for my brushed rigs. I get about 1.5-2 hours of run time out of them depending on how I drive.

For my brushless rigs I run 5000mah 20c 3s lipos.(5000x20/1000=100amps) never had a problem and I get 45min to a hour out of my ryft and 2-3 hours out of the 3000kv powered scaler.
 
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Simple. Product availability.

I got into this hobby at a baaaaaaaaaad time. April of last year.

I originally wanted the PP 2700. Unobtabium at the time, along with the SHV500v3 and JConcepts Landmines.

But, the Trailmaster 3300, 3Bros G13 and PL Hyraxes were.

Gotta start somewhere.




The MambaX manual states minimum 25C for batteries.

I actually started off with that battery with the stock motor and esc. No issues. But I just crawl.

I switched to Gens Ace Adventureline Series when I upgraded to the Mamba.

With what you’re wanting to do with the setup, I’d maybe look into batteries with a higher discharge rating.

If I’m off on this , I’m sure someone will give the correct info.
i still dont get why you steped down if you thought the bigger motor was good enuff



and 25c rating means nothing without the mah rating and knowing the burts current and how long the battery can maintain that burst draw for is part of picking a battery and all my mombas say 30c 5000mah batterys recamended but all mine are the monsters


So the higher the C rating, the better? Sorry for all my noob questions, just want to make sure I’m getting the right thing.

Which battery would you get? I want to spend no more than $100 on batteries, but need more than just one. My thinking with the small 800mah is grab 5 or 6 with them being only $15 a piece. That gives me a total of 4,000-4,800mah and judging on how long my 7200mah 2S’s lasts, I think that’s enough.




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79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker
you need to find out the max amp draw from the motor and max amp draw from the esc you want your battery to out put more amps than the esc will draw acording to the recorded data on my mamba i run over 100 amps sustained some times up to 120a so i would need a battery say 5000 mah 30c that would give me 150 amps sustained draw before i do damage to the battery
im drawing 120 amps with a 2200kv motor so your 3800 will have a larger draw than the 2200 so im guessing your gona need a.big battery wether you want one or not the 2200 mah 50 c will only be good to alittle over 100 amps and would leave you underpowered and might damage something but might be ok for just crawling i would think the smallest you should go would.be the 3000mah at 50c discharge that will put you back in to the 150 amp zone and will be more than you need best to get the info about the motor esc and.battery and enter.that info in to a battery calculator and see.what it says

and the gen8 is also a portal axle rig and has the lower gearing you sead trail king and pull a trailer with it the trailking dosent have as much gear reduction as ether the trx4 or gen8 unless you put portals under it motors generate heat when bogged down by tall gearing or.heavy loads so it might crawl fine but wont pull the trailer when pulling the trailer you will want that low speed control and you will want a motor that wont over heat doing it
 
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I don’t want to make this conversation even more confusing, but I run a small 3s 1550mah soft case pack. In my 6x6 with a 2850kv castle slate and micro x crawler I can’t keep up with the thing walking. Idk why anyone would need to go any faster than that. I’ve had that setup in 3 rigs and it’s faster than anything I need, but with the throttle curve it still has great low end crawling capability


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don’t want to make this conversation even more confusing, but I run a small 3s 1550mah soft case pack. In my 6x6 with a 2850kv castle slate and micro x crawler I can’t keep up with the thing walking. Idk why anyone would need to go any faster than that. I’ve had that setup in 3 rigs and it’s faster than anything I need, but with the throttle curve it still has great low end crawling capability


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, that actually helps. Thanks!

How long run time would you say you get out of one battery?


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79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker
 
I think I figured out the battery and out to find out if it’s right thanks to yall.

Out of these three, which would you go with?

1. x4 4500mah 60C [270A]
2. x4 5200mah 50C [260A]
3. x3 6200mah 50C [310A]

Number 3 gives me the most amps, but number 2 gives me the most total voltage for all 4 batteries. If it was just me driving, I’d go for number 3, but since me and my father will both go out, I’m kind of partial to number 2 right now. All 3 of these choices are the same price range- 1 being cheapest and 2/3 being the same.

Thank you guys for all your help. I know this is something I need to decide on my own, it I want to get other peoples far more knowledgeable opinions before I hit checkout.


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79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker
 
I feel battery weight is just as important as its voltage or c-rating. Heavy packs make for more rollovers. I've found that 2200 40c Gens Ace are plenty of pack for anything less than a full out WOT all the time basher. You can turn up the punch control thru castle link to lower maximum amperage draw and keep from overstressing the smaller-than-castles-reccomended batteries.

The 2200's are small and light enough to carry spares in your pocket, are fairly cheap, and fit most crawlers.

I would not consider anything less than 1500mah when paired with a healthy brushless.
 
I think I figured out the battery and out to find out if it’s right thanks to yall.

Out of these three, which would you go with?

1. x4 4500mah 60C [270A]
2. x4 5200mah 50C [260A]
3. x3 6200mah 50C [310A]

Number 3 gives me the most amps, but number 2 gives me the most total voltage for all 4 batteries. If it was just me driving, I’d go for number 3, but since me and my father will both go out, I’m kind of partial to number 2 right now. All 3 of these choices are the same price range- 1 being cheapest and 2/3 being the same.

Thank you guys for all your help. I know this is something I need to decide on my own, it I want to get other peoples far more knowledgeable opinions before I hit checkout.


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79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

I would opt for #2, I really like the idea of a two + hour run time. On amazon you can find some good deals.
 
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