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Help building my Krazed Un-stuck crawler

Lonewolf, PM me your address, I have some C.I. outers from 6" foams, 2 soft and 2 medium. I'll get em out tomorrow free of charge for ya."thumbsup"
 
Lonewolf, PM me your address, I have some C.I. outers from 6" foams, 2 soft and 2 medium. I'll get em out tomorrow free of charge for ya."thumbsup"

Thanks I appreciate it but don't need them. When I ordered from Crawler Innovations they threw them in for free with stickers and not to brag two pieces of gum :mrgreen: that I already enjoyed.
 
Figured I'd put my wheels together tonight. Have a question where the rim is suppose to contact on the tire. I'm assuming where I put the red line? If so I assume that's where the glue goes? And do you glue completely around the tire with a bead of glue or do you break it up like drops of glue at the 12 3 6 and 9 o'clock spots?

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I turned something I thought simple into something more lol.

I noticed as u can see in the photo one tire is under vacuum and isn't fully round. The others I notice seem to be holding air. I didn't even glue them yet. How do I go about venting them? I'm assuming they should be. Assuming the inner foam is closed cell and won't let air threw. Do I make little holes in the tire? With what? And where should they be?

Thanks


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A leather punch works great to vent the tires but I've used side cutters, xacto knife etc to do it. I saw the other day someone used a hot soldering iron. :lol:
 
A leather punch works great to vent the tires but I've used side cutters, xacto knife etc to do it. I saw the other day someone used a hot soldering iron. :lol:


The soldering iron came to mind with me but wasn't sure lol. Do you do it on the side wall area or in between thread knobs in the center of the tire that makes contact with ground? I'm assuming the later since there is less flex and chance of tearing as their would be if I did them on the sidewall right?
 
I've seen them on the sidewall but I do them on the tread. I've always vented the wheels but in the last year started running closed cell inners so I had to vent the tires. I haven't had an issue with tearing yet and I think my initial fears of the issue were unfounded.
 
Good combo.

Get zero timing that way you can wire the motor any way you need to depending on your setup. I wouldn't worry about the leads on the motor. The unstuck chassis will fit a brxl perfectly in front of the chassis between the crossmembes and the esc leads will reach the motor directly.

I wouldn't bother with waterproofing as it adds weight and shortens the warranty period considerably. Not sure what's up with the sensor port as this is a brushed esc not brushless.


You can see how my electronics are mounted here. Just a couple zip ties around the crossmembes holding the esc between them makes life easy. There is lots of room for the receiver under it as well.

20161109_135506_zpsklesrfiq.jpg

Why do you only have 2 bolts on the transmission? Reminds me of when guys only use 3 bolts in their SLW hubs, but I haven't really figured out why.

Also, since I'm also in the process of a 2.2 Un-stuck build, is there any problems with using Axial HD driveshafts or are the Maxx shafts just better?
 
Let's just say I'm running a different trans than anything on the market that only uses 2 mounting screws.


I run 3 screws on my slw's too just so they are quicker to change. No strength issue with less hardware yet. I did take a big drop while running 6 bolt wheels from crawler innovations that pulled the wheel off the screws. I run 6 screws when using 6 bolt wheels now.


As to drivelines the maxx parts are lighter and rather tough. It's been years since I used axial drivelines, it was not a good experience. :lol: But that was pre wb8 hd or whatever they use now. One of my buddies runs them without an issue.
 
Tires came out okay. Suggestion for others, a slower drying CA glue would relieve pressure lol. Never glued a tire before and the CA glue I had made a very fast bond.

Today I wanted to figure out what pinion and spur gear to get.

I will run standard and under drive gears and a crawl master expert 540 13t motor and Holmes torque master br-xl esc. Lipo batteries.

This spur the right one? Notice you guys said you both run 87 but wasn't sure of pitch.
TowerHobbies.com | Axial Spur Gear 48P 87T

As far as pinion 13 14 or 15?
TowerHobbies.com | Axial Pinion 48P 14T Steel
 
The duratrax nitro evader 32p 56t is a go to spur gear for me. It's super tough but will give just when you need it to. I use a 10t Robinson racing ultra hard pinnion.

149 r/c worx's Team Driver
 
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I only run 48 pitch gears in my crawler, I've found they hold up fine and have a much better gear ratio availability than 32 pitch. I run 32 pitch in my big power brushless rigs because they actually need it. The crawler, not so much.

I'm running 87/12 and it's a good setup for me.

That spur is fine, I'd suggest buying a few pinion gears so you can find your sweet spot in gearing.
 
Is it also true in the crawler world that your better off with a plastic spur gear so if something has to give its a cheap plastic spur gear?

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I run plastic due to weight and price. Steel is overrated and unnecessary when companies like Kimbrough and Robinson have such good plastic compounds.
 
I ordered the spur and some Robinson pinions, they are the 1/8 bore ones right?

I like the body style in the below screen shot. What's the name of it? Or what ones do you guys recommend?

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