Might be going with Tekin ROC 412 3100kv and the following route of needed upgrades right away. Just a couple of questions. Stock tranny other than steel gears, will it be sufficient? I'm thinking about stock shaft and outputs. Hoping to get away with a cheaper solution than Gen3 Slash and SS beefy shaft. Which 32p spur fits the stock top shaft?
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Harley's Guide to a Bulletproof Wraith
- Thread starter Harley
- Start date
kevin06vino
Newbie
I just installed the same motor in my Wraith. I am on the stock transmission, with Robinson gears and a bombproof motor plate. I used the traxxas jato 32p spur (with axial slipper). Traxxas part number 3956 (54t) 3957 (56t) 3958 (58t). I do have the AX10 MIPs, but stock diff gears. The ROC is a lot heavier than the stock can so I still need to get my shocks setup. It leans pretty good at the moment.
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hatefulboy
Rock Crawler
I've got a 3300 pro4 motor in my wraith on 3s. I run the hot racing metal trans gears with a RRP one piece out put gear. The top shaft is stock w/RRP metal 48p spur. I have been running it this way for over a year with no problems. So to answer your question, you can use the stock top shaft and plastic housing.
Just a little helpful info for those running the RC4WD AX2 Two speed transmission.
If your going to be running any sort of powerful motor through this transmission you need to upgrade the output shaft. The stock output shaft uses e-clips to hold the gears in place at the front and rear of the transmission. This is a weak point, and many have had the shafts sheer off (including myself) at this point. Upgrade to the Heavy Duty AX2 output shaft. It eliminates the e-clips and replaces them with shims to keep everything in place, thus eliminating the e-clip grooves and keeping everything strong.
If your going to be running any sort of powerful motor through this transmission you need to upgrade the output shaft. The stock output shaft uses e-clips to hold the gears in place at the front and rear of the transmission. This is a weak point, and many have had the shafts sheer off (including myself) at this point. Upgrade to the Heavy Duty AX2 output shaft. It eliminates the e-clips and replaces them with shims to keep everything in place, thus eliminating the e-clip grooves and keeping everything strong.
MAVERICKJK
Pebble Pounder
Don't suppose you have the part # for the Heavy Duty AX2 output shaft or source?
EDIT: AX2 Heavy Duty Output Shaft
EDIT: AX2 Heavy Duty Output Shaft
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Calderwood
I wanna be Dave
Hello Harley, I have this same trouble than him on a BMRC wrexo
What is that sound? Wrexo axial wraith. Exo - YouTube
I plan to swap the front on HD axial part but I dont know with one take...
43T/13T ? 36T/14T ? or 38T/13T ?
I was thinking we need same in front and in rear but you chose 18/13 in front and 43/13 in rear why ? (the front wheel will not be "faster" than the rear :shock
Stock is 38t/13t, 43t/13t I'd over drive and 36t/14t is under drive. If I remember correctly. In my Wrexo I run stock front and rear.
Calderwood
I wanna be Dave
Tighter turning radius, steeper climbing and more controlled descents.
gbean
RCC Addict
Don't forget added strain on the drive-line... ;-)
MAVERICKJK
Pebble Pounder
per Modeller "Overdrive is used to make the front of the car drive faster than the rear. It has nothing to do with tire wear other than teh diameter of the tires effects the amount of over drive you get.
Overdriving the front end is only neccessary when you are using either a one-way front diff or front solid axle with a rear solid axle.
The reason for this is that the solid axle in the rear makes the rear break loose in the corner because both wheels are turning at the same speed. You therefore overdrive the front end to make it pull the rear around in the straightest possible line.
Note: you must use either the front one-way diff or the front solid axle when using a rear solid axle. You make the fronts smaller because as the rears wear down the overdrive is reduced and can become underdrive (the rear pushing) which is almost impossible to control at high speed. The bigger the diameter difference the more the rears have to wear down to reach this stage.
Also, you would normally run softer tires on the rear to give more grip and harder tires on the front to create a bit of push to allow the rear to grip more. If you run the tires the same shore all round you need to run the suspension really soft in the rear and then the car doesn;t work properly. This is the price you have to apy to run in the fast lane. I know. I have been doing it for 15 yrs."
Overdriving the front end is only neccessary when you are using either a one-way front diff or front solid axle with a rear solid axle.
The reason for this is that the solid axle in the rear makes the rear break loose in the corner because both wheels are turning at the same speed. You therefore overdrive the front end to make it pull the rear around in the straightest possible line.
Note: you must use either the front one-way diff or the front solid axle when using a rear solid axle. You make the fronts smaller because as the rears wear down the overdrive is reduced and can become underdrive (the rear pushing) which is almost impossible to control at high speed. The bigger the diameter difference the more the rears have to wear down to reach this stage.
Also, you would normally run softer tires on the rear to give more grip and harder tires on the front to create a bit of push to allow the rear to grip more. If you run the tires the same shore all round you need to run the suspension really soft in the rear and then the car doesn;t work properly. This is the price you have to apy to run in the fast lane. I know. I have been doing it for 15 yrs."
Ok ok it's very interresting but It's quite complicated to understand (I'm french and not bilingual at all)
Btw I use same tires front and rear (TTC Baja Claw 2.2 2xss compound) I'm on a Wrexo with full time 4WS (Y link and up side down Servo) I have to upgrade my front Gearing beacause the Drag Brake (213% castle) make the stock EXO front gearing jumping/grinding (like this VIDEO )
SO the question is simple Do you think I should Overdrive or Underdrive the front or stay with stock ratio, as the same in the rear ?
Many Thx oversea expert ^^
Btw I use same tires front and rear (TTC Baja Claw 2.2 2xss compound) I'm on a Wrexo with full time 4WS (Y link and up side down Servo) I have to upgrade my front Gearing beacause the Drag Brake (213% castle) make the stock EXO front gearing jumping/grinding (like this VIDEO )
SO the question is simple
Do you think I should Overdrive or Underdrive the front or stay with stock ratio, as the same in the rear ?Many Thx oversea expert ^^
Last edited:
gbean
RCC Addict
I'm pretty sure that information applies to touring cars and not crawlers... given the reference to one-ways and differing tire size.
No serious scaler I've seen here on RCC has used different tire sizes simultaneously on the same rig.
No serious scaler I've seen here on RCC has used different tire sizes simultaneously on the same rig.
I don't plan to change my Tiresthe build master
Rock Stacker
Marine grease works great for the housings and tranny keeps water out and lubed well .
dna4engr
Rock Crawler
Hello Harley, I have this same trouble than him on a BMRC wrexo
What is that sound? Wrexo axial wraith. Exo - YouTube
I plan to swap the front on HD axial part but I dont know with one take...
43T/13T ? 36T/14T ? or 38T/13T ?
I was thinking we need same in front and in rear but you chose 18/13 in front and 43/13 in rear why ? (the front wheel will not be "faster" than the rear :shock
Ok ok it's very interresting but It's quite complicated to understand (I'm french and not bilingual at all)
Btw I use same tires front and rear (TTC Baja Claw 2.2 2xss compound) I'm on a Wrexo with full time 4WS (Y link and up side down Servo) I have to upgrade my front Gearing beacause the Drag Brake (213% castle) make the stock EXO front gearing jumping/grinding (like this VIDEO )
SO the question is simple
Many Thx oversea expert ^^
I had this exact problem on my wrexo running OD gears front and rear (36/14). Pulled it apart and the ring looked fine but the pinion showed some wear from jumping on a hard stop or under a difficult bind. Makes me wonder if the exo housing allows enough mesh as compared to the stock axial wraith and scx10 housings.
Switched out to 43/13 front and rear as these have the best tooth engagement of all the axial HD gears. Highly recommended in a wrexo setup.
Dna
